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Published: November 21st 2022
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With the travel day, 3 hour time change and late-night bedtime, it seemed like a short night. I snuck out to breakfast, as Ken was still blissfully dreaming The breakfast area overlooked the pool with a very large selection of arabic (hummus, labneh, grilled vegis, freshly grilled flatbreads with cheese and herbs, etc) and western (eggs, bacon, etc). Ken wandered down and we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, slowly getting into the day.
Our plan today was to taxi to the Citadel, and then wander to the Roman Theater and on to the souq (marketplace). Eventually we got going, and soon we were entering the Citadel with our Jordan Pass. Note to anyone visiting, get the Jordan Pass before arriving...it includes the visa and access to most of the major historical sites in Jordan. Very worthwhile!
The question was....guide or no guide? They were available at the entry, and we went ahead and engaged with a gentleman, which for 30 dinars (28usd) seemed reasonable. He provided some good intel, but Ken struggled to understand his accent. I got most of it, and over the hour learned about the various occupants (greeks, romans, turks, brits, etc) that created the Jordan we
see today. Lots of cool ruins, history and ancient art that always makes the past come alive. The highlight is the ruins of the Temple of Hercules...the large columns, carvings and statues give a glimpse int the world long gone.
From there, we wandered down the road, steep steps and as Lonely Planet advised, gingerly crossed a major road to the Roman Theater. I learned in India, to cross a road, find the locals and go with them as they know how to navigate the traffic. That worked and we were quickly in the 6000 seat theater built in 131 AD, built into a hill, that is now used for concerts and other events.
After admiring the theater, it was time to wade into the souq and find Hashem, ranked one of the best falafal restaurants in the region. We wandered the busy streets and turned into the alley and were met with a crowd which alerted us to arriving. We got in line, only to realize they were just hanging...ok we got in another line, where a local said "you need to go over there". Ooops. We finally went in the actual restaurant and found a table
that had just become available. The whole process is quite efficient with the servers tasks: 1. cover the table in plastic wrap 2. wandering guy with platters of tea (if you want) 3. drop off plate with mint, onions and tomatoes 4. drop off pita bread 5. drop off bean soup, hummus and falafal. EAT!! and yes, we did...it was amazing and the total price $13, Nothing like Jordanian fast food.
From there, we explored the shops on the busy road, picking up some yummy sweets from a shop recommended by my brother, through the fruit/veg market where the vendors each had their own sing-song to entice you to purchase their selection. We finally decided to head back to the hotel before the venturing out for the evening.
After a rest, it was time to head back out, with a start at Rainbow Street, with shops and some cool cafes. It was quiet as 630p is early, which was a nice change from the busy scene from the souq earlier. Soon it was time to head to dinner at Fakherldin, in an elegant old villa with lots of local delicacies. And, WOW wonderful service, fresh/healthy food and what
a way to end a great day.
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Ace Vision Treks and Tours
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thank you so much for sharing useful travel tips.