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Back in the Holy Land for the first time in 10 years, and it was definitely worth the trip to come out and see Alan, even if just for a few days. While I did not really do a whole lot of sightseeing, I had a great chance to spend time with a very good friend of mine while celebrating Yom Ha'Atzmaut in Tel Aviv. I even got a chance to see me cousin - and meet her husband for the first time. As with just about everywhere else I go, this visit was too short, but I guess that is even more of a reason to go back.
Wednesday, May 7th:
After a pretty easy flight from Barcelona (and dealing with the very thorough Israeli security) I made it to Ben Gurion Airport and caught the train to Alan's neighborhood, where he swung by and picked me up. While I would love to have slept immediately, we ate breakfast, changed into some more decent clothes - thıs is a relative thing, as Israelis NEVER dress up - and went to his cousin's grave as the day before Independence Day in Israel is Yom Ha'Zicaron (Memorial Day), so there is
a natıon-wide service at all the cemetaries for troops who fell in battle. It was a lovely service and amazing to see how the whole country really comes out and shuts down, even if only for a short while. After the service, we had a bit of a light lunch with his family and then headed home to take a bit of a nap.
Tonight was an absolute party. Alan and I did a quick tour of his corner of Tel Aviv, then a little dinner at his place and then headed out to Kiryat (Square) Rabin for the Independence Day celebrations. Amazing. The square was packed - not so much that you couldn't move, though - and there were fıreworks and a laser-lıght show. Alan, another friend of his from New York and I climbed to the top of an upside-down pyramid shaped statue in the middle of the sqaure for the view of the fireworks and the corwd. Then, we dıd the requisite Anlo Tel Aviv party scene. Apparently, every year, everyone goes to one guy's house where you can see the whole cıty's skyline and fireworks, then to another guy's house en masse for the rest of
the night. So that is what we did. The first party was cool, really just chatted with some people, but the second was sweet. It had a double-decker roof deck, so the lower terrace was chill, but the top was a dance party, so I hung out up there for about 3 hrs. I think Alan got some chick's number, so it was a good night, and we walked home.
Talked to mom and dad tonight when I got home. Apparently, I had called just as the service for Omi was starting. Mom updated me on the whole thing, saying David was a real part of the ceremony and handled himself very well. I wish I could have been there, but it seems as though I was there in spirit - at least with my timing - and I am very proud of my little brother.
Thursday, May 8th:
Alan and I slept in a bit late today, but made it to the beach in time to catch most of the airshow being put on over the water. Cool show - not the most amazing thing in the world, but there was a great low-level demonstration by an F-15.
We walked along the beach a bit more and eventually found his friends and got a bit more sun with them. Then it was off to Alan's place to prep for his party tonight.
Party tonight went well. There was not a huge crowd, but most of the people Alan had wanted to make it were there, even a few in from Jerusalem, and I felt proud to represent the New Haven contingent. I chatted with a few people, mostly Americans or Aussies who had made Aliyah, but I talked for a while with an Israeli girl who is studying to be an architect, so we had a good bit to talk about. On the whole, it was a very nıce, relaxed, warm, friendly send-off for Alan.
Friday, May 9th:
We were off to Jerusalem today, fırst to meet up with my cousim Miriam and her husband for lunch, and then to walk around the Old City. You can forget how small of a place Israel is until you drive from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem in under 45 minutes. No time at all, really.
It was wonderful to see Miriam for the first time in years, really. She, her
husband, Chaim, Alan and I met at a little veggie place for a bite and we caught up. She seems to be genuinely happy, living in Jerusalem and taking classes, and with Chaim, who is from NJ originally (though we're not holding that against him...too much). So I am wonderfully happy for the two of them. Sometimes you can just tell when someone is genuinely happy, and that is clearly obvious with Miriam.
After lunch, we made our way into the Old City, wandering around the Arab market and Armenian Quarter. I picked up a Hamsha for Bethany, and got to do a bit of haggling, which is always fun. We also tried to make it to Hezekiah's Tunnels through one of Z's connections, but would have been too late, anyway. Then we met up with a buddy of Alan's from UofR who is studying to be a Rabbi at HUC down at the Kotel. It meant a lot to me to come go to the Kotel to say Kaddish for Omi while mom is sitting Shiva.
We also went with Alan's friend to Kabbalat Shabbat serices at HUC. These tunes had been redone by one of his classmates in
the style of Medieval German tunes - beautiful, but nearly impossible to sing along with. After services was dinner at this guy's house - potluck, and we did bring something for dessert - which was a hell of a lot of fun. It turns out that one of the girls there, Lauren Luskey, is the bıg sister of one Sammy (3yrs behind me) and the cousin of another a year older than me, a friend of Bethany's from Camp Greene and the roomate of Bethany's former coworker at the ISJL. Small world. The rest of the crowd was also a great bunch of people studying everything from rabbinical prep to education.
Saturday, May 10th:
No rest for the weary on Shabbat. Alan and I decided to try our luck with Haifa this morning, starting with the Bahai Gardens. We tried to make a reservation, but no answer on Saturday, and though the gates were open we only got to see about 2 levels of the masive gardens. They were still impressive, though. Absolutely gorgeous. Next stop was the Church of Stella Marris, a very old church overlooking the sea, where the Christians believe that Elijah's cave is - they believe they built the church on top of it. About a 15 minute walk down the hill, though, is where Jews believe the cave was. We made it down the the building on top of it and it was closed for Shabbat - figures. We were then off to the Hecht Museum at the University of Haifa. Very comprehensive archaeologıcal museum, complete with a 2400 year old boat found just meters off the coast. I'm amazed that nobody found it before the late 1980's.
With time running out before my flight, we went back to Alan's and then to grabbed a sandwich on the newly gentrified port area of Tel Aviv. Then we said our goodbyes, I was off through Israeli security and onto the plan for İstanbul.
Arrived in late to the hostel, but they still had a bed for me. The only one available was in the massive 30-bed room, but it's a bed. I was feeling hungry, so I went off to grab a meal and chat with Bethany for a few minutes. As always, ıt was great to catch up with her. At my table ın the restaurant I chatted with the owner and an Aussie photographer living in Amherst, MA who was over on work for Ritz Hotels. They were sending him around the world for 2 weeks to take pics of just 4 hotels. Still doesn't seem like such a bad life.
BTW, the hostel is in a great location, as I can see the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, the top of the old Ottoman Palace, the Bosporus, Asia and the Sea of Marmara from the roof deck. So cool.
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