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Published: March 3rd 2018
In this my final blog of my recent trip to Israel, I find myself deeply conflicted and immersed in a dilemma, which is the reason for my delay in publishing. How do I write a summation of this unique exposure which adequately captures what I experienced and saw, yet expressing it in such a manner recognizing that, first and foremost, this is a travel blog, which should exude with enticement for my readers to visit the Holy Land? How do I accomplish that goal yet ignore the stark realities on the ground? The short answer is that I can't. Some of my photographs (in Hebron and Bethlehem in particular) will be disturbing to many but I will not compromise my integrity by avoiding truth and honesty, as I see it. I feel that I have no alternative but to depart from my initial intention before I left Canada, to stay away from controversy. Before proceeding any further, let me first clearly state that both Jeanette and I plan to someday return to Israel and to delve more deeply into its character, history and spirituality. There is no other place like it on earth and we have so far only scratched the surface.
Before I departed for Israel and my temporary home of three months, in the Holy City of Jerusalem, I had one request and that was to see the city and the country without the prejudice of preconceived notions about anything, least of all the people. What I found was a country divided and complicated - cousins living next to each other yet separated by culture, religion, politics, language, ignorance, misunderstanding, walls, barbed wire, tension and soldiers. And yet, both Israelis and Palestinians demonstrated such sincere kindness, hospitality and generosity to both Jeanette and me, at every turn, that it even called into question the very community that I belong to in the West, where often just a mere greeting of "good morning" seems so difficult for some. It is also difficult to reconcile my spiritual journey to Nazareth, Tiberias, Caphernaum, the Sea of Galilee, Mount of the Beatitudes, even Jericho (briefly), all where Jesus walked, with the desperation, poverty and obvious injustice I found in both Bethlehem and Hebron, just to name two cities. Even in Jerusalem itself, the kindest description of the Shuafat refugee camp (I did not enter it), though administered by UNRWA, would be
deplorable. It seethes with squalor, violence and discontent. A seeming time bomb and a factory for enduring violent and disenfranchised youth, existing without a voice. After the onrush of deep sadness, feelings of empathy, compassion and understanding filled the emptiness.
I have to say, that while there I immersed myself as best as I was able, into understanding the culture and the people. My time and circumstances there allowed me the privilege of interacting with a variety of visitors, many of whom returned time and time again, some as often as a dozen and more. What keeps people coming back? I initially pondered that question but the longer I stayed in Jerusalem the more I came to appreciate the complexity of this fascinating but deeply divided city and country and the powerful lure of history and spirituality that makes Jerusalem, a true capital, if not only of Israel and Palestine but of the global community. The moment I consciously took the personal decision to look beyond race, religion and politics, although these form the fabric of this ever-turbulent society, a wondrous picture began to emerge. Tension, injustice, suspicion, fear, conflict and misunderstanding abound here and yet, digging deeper reveals a spirit of goodwill and an earnest desire that life could be better if only a way could be found to harness this desire of many, into meaningful progress. As an example, I witnessed religious celebrations under heavy Israeli military presence, taking place, more than once while I was there, in the heart of the Muslim sector of the Old City. It was clearly very provocative. Against great odds, movements such as
"Breaking the Silence", started by an ex IDF soldier, and the continual cries of the Christian churches that are part of the fabric of Jerusalem's character, seem to fall on deaf ears and unseeing eyes.
I came away with an inescapable conclusion that one of the main obstacles, and there are many, was the leadership on both sides of the divide, which seems to fuel the ongoing struggle for identity, ownership, justice and peace for the Palestinian and Israeli people. The minority Christians (2.1%!o(MISSING)f population) are caught in the middle. The angry voices of the extreme radicals on both sides rise far above the underlying desire of many, to simply get along. The heartbreaking reality is that the cry of the poor and desperate for justice, can find no effective vehicle for change, since, clearly, the power lies in the hands of the few extremely powerful, just as it has for millennia. There is no shortage of stiff-necked leadership around.
Looking down on Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives, Yeshua (Jesus), wept for the city and its inhabitants. They rejected Him then and still do (their own Isaiah Chapter 53, pointing to Christ, has no bearing and is ignored) although following His command would transform Israel for everyone - "You shall love the Lord your God with all your heart and with all your soul and with all your mind. This is the great and first commandment. And a second is like it. You shall love your neighbour as yourself. On these two commandments depend all the Law and the Prophets" - Matthew 22: 37-40 It is absolutely desirable and vital that the Jewish people have and control their own country and have secure, defensible borders, whether the justification is based Biblically or not. I have visited the Auschwitz and Birkenau concentration and extermination camps in Poland and abhor the inhumanity of what transpired there. It was sickening. We should not, indeed must not forget what the Nazis did to these people and countless others. Perhaps some distant relatives of mine were subjected to this atrocity as I do have some Ashkenazi Jewish blood in me. However, it is ironic, unconscionable and unacceptable that the abused, to any thinking outsider, has so obviously now become the abuser, in doing to others what was so unjustly done to them. How can one side live under these conditions and how can the other stomach what they are doing to the other? It defies decency. "Why? Why? Why?", as one priest lamented from his cathedral's pulpit on a Sunday I attended.
In Jerusalem, especially in the Old City, the atmosphere is constantly filled with throngs of international pilgrims walking the Via Dolorosa in prayer and song. Synagogues, churches and mosques dominate the city and yet, as one of the beautiful, genuine and intelligent Palestinian ladies I met, succinctly and aptly expressed, "Jerusalem is a city of prayer but not peace...yet." If these two peoples were ever to find the illusive formula to work together, the country of Israel would be transformed into one of unlimited success and the envy of the world. As far as I am personally concerned, only the Lord Himself can put this right. All in His time!
I strongly encourage my readers to take a look at Netflix's documentary "East Jerusalem West Jerusalem" - one person can make a difference and to also take a look at the short YouTube video (see link below) by the Israeli and Arab singing duo of Noa and Mira Awad called "There must be another way": [
Ed
non-member comment
Great blog
Thanks very much for your great blog. You wrote beautifully and with conviction of your personal feeling and view which makes your blog so wonderful to read. The inclusion of history and quotes makes it a lession. I'm already looking forward to your next journey!!!