Israel Palestine and the Holy lands

I left you last time as I was about to try to cross the prince hussein bridge, Hmm that one didnt work, the bridge was closed for the day and whats more the guy in charge, very nice fellow in an air conditioned office, said only vehicles could pass with prior consent of both Governments as it went straight into the west bank.He advised I go North and cross at the only other available place which was In the Jordan valley.
Typical of the region, the Jordanians were miffed because you wanted to leave to go to Israel, and the Israeli guys were miffed because you had been to Syria, they asked how I survived and was not robbed or beaten as if they were savages...they ought to look in the mirror.They were all 18-20 year old conscripts, they didn't want to be there, and neither did I. Security is so tight, everything gets exrayed then opened then tested then repacked for the customs guys then wanting a look etc, took 4-5 hours and much loss of bodily fluids after several repacks of clothing and camping gear.
Once through I hated the place with a vengeance...wrong I know but the taste they left in my mouth was sooo bad. The first guy I came across at a fuel station was slow in turning the pump on, was busy polishing his nails or something, I was fuming and berated him infront of a guy having a coffee, he asked what was wrong so I gave him both barrels too, made me feel better but i apologise to you both now.
On another note the first thing that hits you is , its like walking back into Europe, 10km away it is an Arab world with dark skinned people the majority, here it is very Germanic or even American with blonde hair and square jaws being prominent.
I tried to find a place to sleep but as it was Friday and sabat everything was either shut or full, came across a few Jewish areas that are no go over those two days of the week ( Fri sat ), ended up sleeping rough, got woke by a guy who thought i had probably fell off the bike.lol.
Next day found a shipping agent and also a hostel in Tel Aviv which is a bustling city that has just celebrated its centinery!!
The pace is a mish mash of people and religions with no discernible history, strange as Jerusalem and Bethlehem are just down the road.
Its been an interesting and incredibly frustrating few days,I have eventually sorted a container ship to take me from Ashdod to Savona, the Grande Bretagne. I still have to contend with the port customs but as i am paying for a forwarder I assume they will take most of the heat and do the legwork, they should for 150 dollars!!!!!!!


Another early start, bike is due to be serviced today at a newly built KTM dealership managed by Eran Starik in Yahud, a small town not far from the Ben Gurion Airportl, Tel Aviv. It was the first KTM Power Store in this region.The bike was ok bar the obligatory few loose bolts, new oil and filter, air filter and plugs, should be good for another 8000km or so. Guys were fantastic, enthusiastic and professional, nothing more could be asked of them. Rate this place very highly, even gave me a KTM beenie hat to keep the sun off in Africa !
After dinner courtesy of another happy guy who was picking up a new 530 exc enduro bike converted to 570 I set off for Jerusalem, interesting place and needed longer than i gave it to explore all the little hard to find souqs and alleyways.It still had an edge,getting to the wailing wall you have to be searched and then metal detected, for what? enjoyed it all the same.
Onto Bethlehem, now this place is truely old, not built on and corrupted polished and put on show.You approach to find a walled city 15m high gray concrete sections with razor wire at the top, spikes in road to puncture tyres should you stray from designated route, and army tooled up giving you suspicious looks, and signs warning no Israeli citizens allowed !!
Once through the controls you are into Palestine, feels good, Friendly Arabic culture seeps into the air.The Roads are a little worse and it is a little dustier but when i get to the old town and visit the old church of Bethlehem it is by far the most touching and beautiful religious place that i have visited on my travels.It is a rather surreal experience to be allegedly be at the spot where Christ was born.I am not terribly religious but this place has an aura that even i feel.
Grab tea at a local restaurant and head back to Tel Aviv in the dark of the evening and through the mist of the mountains in the West Bank.This somehow adds to the feeling that this definitely is a special place.

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