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Published: December 16th 2005
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Religious Center of the Universe
The Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock--right on top of each other, literally I've been away from the computer for over a week (a long story about the continuing difficulty of internet hookup, the amazingly annoying lack of service from Dell (a very long story), and attempts from Israeli friends who direct a college of engineering to have their tech people try to find the problem). This leaves me with endless impressions and experiences I could reflect upon here from our 5 days in Jerusalem (where so many people are so deeply impacted by the aura of history that there is a diagnosed psychological condition called Jerusalem Syndrome to describe this experience) and then 3 day loop up through Northern Israel.
It is almost too trite to say Israel is a land of contrasts. In many respects, it strikes me as potentially the very best of travel destinations, with amazing offerings from the beaches of the Mediterranean, the stark beauty of the desert, the oddity of the Dead Sea, and the most amazing mix of history and culture including (but far from limited to) the holiest sites of Islam, Christianity, and Judiasm (all in one small block!!!), evidence of Phonecians, Greeks, Romans, Turks, Crusaders, Napolean, British and all sorts of invaders in
Floating in the Dead Sea
Yes, it really is impossible to go underwater in the salty water between, and modern day life of Jews, Arabs, Druse, and immigrants from Ethiopia, Russia, US, and elsewhere (and great diversity within each of these groups, particularly highlighted by the varied practices of Jews from the ultra orthodox dressed in their 15th century Eastern European black garb to the secular masses who are as hip as anyone anywhere). This (and pretty great weather) is all available in an area smaller than Vermont (this only refers to the half of the country we have been to already). And, it is essential to say, when one is here (at least for me), there is absolutely no sense of threat for security—it is unfathomable to think how much tourism is down here (off by up to 80% some say) when the real chances of harm through terrorism here is exceedingly low and has to be far less than the danger from driving anywhere in the world. (At the same time, I must admit that some are made to worry by seeing soldiers around everywhere as they do their daily commute to and from work (as they have mandatory service and many soldiers only go to "work" during the day, and part of every soldier's
Dead Sea Mud Treatment
Supposedly people pay a lot for this mess at spas time in the army is touring Israel to learn about Israelis history and culture, so they are literally everywhere, although they never look to be on any type of alert (and many do look very stylish wearing their designer sunglasses and hip hugger army pants and other fashion statements mainly from the women as this is not only the military but a special time for most kids to be in tight knit, coed groups for 3 years after high school.))
While Israel is blessed with unbelievable sites both historical and natural, it is burdened by this history and the politics and the effects of this on their economy (which is very first world in many respects (like all the new construction and computer companies and excellent roads and shopping malls) and more third world in other (the unmaintained formerly new construction from previous optimistic times, the absence of restaurants or even much commerce in many towns outside the cities). And for whatever reason, there is little of the tourist friendly infrastructure here that Europe seems so adept at. Even in Jerusalem, it is hard to find tourist information, and the one office we found could, at best, be described
Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount Complex
Islam's Third Most Holy Shrine, a quiet place amid the bustle of the Old City as less than welcoming. Moreover, there is amazingly little signage in English (or even Roman letters) (even at most restaurants in Jerusalem or warning signs about where you can and cant go near private property or government buildings) so even if you can read Hebrew letters (a big if for most travelers), it is incredibly difficult to recognize restaurant names, let alone tell what is on the menu. Fortunately, many people speak English, so you can get by, but it is far from easy at times to get around without asking for help from someone. This wouldn’t be hard to rectify as the education level and English speaking ability is very high (and much of television is in English with Hebrew subtitles) so it would just take a commitment to being more tourist friendly (and less proud and committed to the national language of Hebrew). In a land where even moving one stone can set off an international crisis, maybe this is harder than it sounds.
I could detail at length the impressive and often moving sights of Jerusalem—the Western Wall of the Second Temple, the Dead Sea Scrolls linking modern Hebrew to desert dwellers thousand of years ago,
Israeli Monument
Mt Bental, a stategic holding overlooking Syria, with it's bunker monument reminding us of what is very recent history intertwined lives in the narrow alleys of the Old City, the ever expanding construction projects, and the most powerful Yad Vashem Holocaust museum and memorial. Every little and big experience in Israel leaves a strong and ever more complex impression. Nothing is really simple, and even little encounters add layers to one's understanding and questions.
For example, we had a guide in Jerusalem for a day who was a veteran of almost every war in Israel from fighting with the underground under the command of Yitchak Rabin to the war of independence to defending Jerusalem in the Six Day War and he related his version of the miracles (and in retrospect to him, the lunacy) of overcoming such unbelievable odds when attacked by all the surrounding nations with their organized militaries. And he told how Israelis never thought of taking over Jerusalem and even asked the King of Jordan, three times, to stay out of the fight since Israel has no desire to take over this land. Yet Jordan joined anyways and then lost the holy sites of the old city, and according to him, then also just gave up the West Bank to Israel, although it was still
Israeli Museum Art--Love
The beautiful sculpture garden, with its "love" scultpure copying the American version of the same time part of Jordan. This is all fascinating just in meeting someone involved in such powerful recent history, but then you are led to wonder how this is all perceived by Arabs and whose "truth" is more true and then what this all means for how things are now and how they might be. Likewise, I am led to consider the complexities of the encounter with an Arab woman in Acco who sends her kids to a private Christian school to avoid the lower quality public school she calls the rubbish school, who is immensely proud of the relations in her town between Arabs and Jews and says she loves Israel and will surely have her son in the Israeli army (I am an Israeli citizen she proudly says), although she also says she can't find a politician she can vote for. Or Druse villages with kids who wear the "uniform" of blue jeans and stylish backpacks while their grandmothers are wrapped in white headscarves and their houses are big modern mansions with enormous bay windows. These are Arabs who seem proudly Israeli and doing quite well for themselves, so you are led to wonder about the "situation" (one of many
Camel Herd
Down in the desert with the local wildlife/domestic animals euphemisms here for the conflict) with the Palestinians and how this all fits together.
Even T.V. watching is less than a diversion. Why are some shows subtitled in Hebrew and Arabic and others not? Why are even some Hebrew shows subtitled in Hebrew? Why does so much Arabic TV seem to be dogmatic lecturing or, at least to my senses, full of shouting? And what exactly was the footage of men in hoods running around with guns and looking like a terrorist training camp? And for our Israeli hosts, their nightly news watching is not just the news, but a chance to see if "everything is okay." (And, more humorously, does Saudi Arabia really have a Chief of Stuff or was this a typo?)
So, much to think about (so much to think about). And this is to say nothing of managing travel for not only our family but also for the past week being joined by Elaine's mother and niece and having a rental car, and all the other details of life that make things less than simple even without the more pressing demands of work and home and all that I am realizing maybe help us
Family Portrait
Temple Mount and the Photogenic Dome of the Rock in life to not fixate on our internal thoughts about life and world affairs and other questions large and small.
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