December 8th Day - Friday

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Shalom again! This is Debby today. I'm writing this a bit later, but covering all the happenings on Friday.

We started with breakfast, of course, but today I skipped it. How much can one eat? (A lot.....) Then onto the bus at 8:30 (yes -- finally a day to get a bit more sleep...) We headed off first to see where Prime Minister Rabin was assassinated. For Americans reading this, it is an even more significant moment in Israeli history than the assassination of President Kennedy in 1963. Rabin was not only the head of the government, but he was just leaving a massive peace rally in favor of his policies of making peace with the Palestinians when a lone Jewish Israeli gunman shot and killed him. He still had the words of a peace song in his jacket pocket (Shir L'shalom). It was emotional for Ziv (our guide) just telling the story. Even though Rabin was in his 70's (or because of that) he was a father figure to a whole generation; even grandfather. He had been the head general, chief of staff, before being Prime Minister. Many of you may remember he was also the ambassador to the U.S. for a time. Not only did Israel lose a visionary leader, but it also learned that its own internal security was not as tight as it should be -- now this could never happen. I've been there before, but this was a deeper explanation this time.

From there we drove on to Yafo (Jaffa) which is now one city with Tel Aviv. It was a mixed Jewish/Arab city before Israel became a modern state; many, many Arab residents left during the fighting of the War of Independence in 1948. You can read about it in history books, I won't give details here. Jenny (one of the adults in our group) mentioned that she was reading the book The Lemon Tree, which is a personal account of a family's experience leaving its home behind during the war.

We had about 45 minutes free time in the small artists' quarter in Yafo. I took the opportunity to buy tallitot (tallises) at Gabrieli's studio) to take back -- two are for two women in our Adult Bat Mitzvah class. Actually, got two for one of the women, so she could choose -- and I'll keep the other one! When you're a rabbi, you can never have enough tallitot! Also bought a little gift for Jacob, the boy from Canada who had his Bar Mitzvah here with us. Just a little wall hanging with the priestly benediction.

We walked to the tel of Yafo (2 minutes from the artists) and Ziv did a little explaining of how in earlier times Jews and Christians coming to Palestine when it was controlled by the Ottoman empire would come through Yafo on their way to Jerusalem. There were many hostels so people could rest up after weeks on a boat. We have it easy by plane!

Next we added something special: on the hillside, we gathered as a group for a ceremony. We took out one of the new tallitot, and two taller men held it up high to make a Chuppah - a wedding canopy. Then Howie and Barbara stepped underneath and renewed their wedding vows. I sang them a song, they repeated the words of "Harey at" and "Dodi Li," and then they kissed. Their daughters stood up there too and smiled! Then we gave Jacob his gift, and then Ziv had us all share a special moment from the trip. It was great.

We took a 1/2 hour break in Yafo to buy great pastries and fabulous fresh squeezed juice (Howie recommends the lemon/mint mixture; and Caleb loved the mango/banana.) Then we went shopping in Tel Aviv. Each family on its own. On Friday it's the market day: there's all the great craftspeople and artists who have tables/stalls along Nahalat Binyamin that day. Must have been over 100 excellent choices. Of course, I had to shop for earrings... Also got my husband a present, but can't mention it here 'cause I want to surprise him. From shopping we all made our way by foot back to the hotel. I walked through the Carmel market after the crafts portion -- Carmel market is all the food and some clothes/kitchen stuff. Like Mahane Yehuda in Jerusalem. Picked up some great olives to take as a Shabbat gift to my friend Steve who I would see later that night.

Two of the families left mid-afternoon for Eilat, so we said goodbye.

After quick rest and cleaning up at the hotel, three of us went with Ziv for an hour walk and talk about Neve Tzedek -- the true first Jewish neighborhood outside Yafo, before there was the start of "Tel Aviv." We heard about the founders of Neve Tzedek. I loved it -- had not done that on earlier tours. (Can't do it all....)

Shabbat arrived -- and we were on the bus for a quick hop to Beit Daniel in north Tel Aviv. That's the first Reform congregation in Tel Aviv, currently headed by Rabbi Meir Azari, who I admire and know a bit. My fourth or fifth time to that congregation. We arrived early for a talk about the congregation -- and Rabbi Azari took our group up on the bimah (it's small) and showed us the details of the amazing art on the walls and surrounding the ark. You really have to go see it -- the Ner Tamid (Eternal Light) extends out from the wall to the side of the ark - and it's being held by a sculptured arm and hand! Cool!

After the service (I got to say the candle blessing!), there was a quick Oneg Shabbat -- just kiddush and motzi. Then everyone goes home to have a relaxed Shabbat dinner. Services are always before dinner in Israel. Our group went back to hotel, but I took a taxi and then got a ride with our friend Ben to his Dad's house in Tel Aviv. His dad, Steve, is one of my longtime friends -- from college days. And I was at his wedding in Israel while in rabbinic school. So, had Shabbat dinner with him and his four sons (ages 15 through 30). The oldest has a girlfriend who immigrated from Russia by herself at the age of 15. She lived at a boarding school up north which of course turned out to be the one "youth village" that I've visited and supported: Yemin Orde. Small world, and interesting to hear her perspective on the place.

Got back around midnight to the hotel (thanks Ben for driving me!). Long day...two more days to go!

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