School's in session!

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Hi, everyone!! Hope this note finds you all well and enjoying the summer. It feels strange for me not to be thinking about the upcoming holiday as I would usually do - have something to do with it not really being celebrated here?? Anyway, enjoy the long weekend and be safe...


Tuesday June 24, 2008

I think today’s theme is “lost.” No, not the TV series, but the way this day turned out in so many ways. At the peshat (Hebrew for “surface”) level, I got lost several times roaming the streets. And this time, I wasn’t happy about doing so! Put me in the Old City and I’m happy to get lost, but not where I went today. I decided to check out the ultra-Orthodox neighborhood of Mea Shearim where one is transposed back in time about 300 years to what looks like Eastern Europe. Men in traditional black garb (hats, pants and overcoat), white shirt, and tsi-tsi hanging out (a religious garment) with ear locks and I believe the ones who are married with full beards. Women covered nearly head to toe - scarf or hat on head, long sleeves, dress or skirt all the way to the ankles, and stockings or socks on their feet. Honestly, the symbolism/tradition/reasons etc., aside for why they dress this way, I don’t know HOW they can do so in this heat!!! I’m dying over here! I’m sure if I lived here, I’d get used to it, just like I eventually got used to Florida’s heat when I lived there.

Anyway, I was told that as long as I stuck to the main roads there and didn’t venture into the side streets that looked more residential than commercial, I’d be okay. Oh, to explain, they have this thing about not liking it when tourists, esp. women, come into their neighborhoods inappropriately clothed. Understandable since they are a religious community and have ideals they want to uphold where they live. I respect that and covered myself accordingly. But I still didn’t want to cause a scene (they are known for throwing stones at people if not appropriately covered) and thought I would just visit their shops. Well, here’s where I got lost. I couldn’t find them! It’s like this community deliberately doesn’t want to be found. None of the streets were labeled (in English, that is) so I had no idea where I was and didn’t feel comfortable to ask anybody for directions. At that point, I really felt like I was intruding on their lives (they are fairly reclusive to begin with it seems) so I decided to nix the idea and turned around.

Naturally, I got lost on the return walk. Got completely mixed up and almost ended up at the Old City again. Hmmm...

This next lost episode is pretty funny and not my fault, entirely. I caught a bus to take me to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum, and asked the driver to let me know when to get off for it. He forgot, although I didn’t realize it until I saw we had pulled into the bus station and no one else was on board. And he looked at me with this “what are you still doing on this bus?” look on his face that I had to remind him of our agreement to let me know when to disembark. Thankfully, he got me on the same bus going back the other way without additional charge and the new driver promised he wouldn’t forget ?

So, Yad Vashem… sigh… I got lost in the dialogue of the exhibits. Literally, through the audio tour I’m so glad I did to the photos, diaries, letters, artifacts, etc. that each had a story to tell. And that’s the goal of this museum, to make sure every single Jewish person who died during the Holocaust is remembered by name and story. Hitler was almost successful in making us one big anonymous blob that he almost destroyed. I know Jews are not the only peoples who have experienced horrible things in its history, but the extensive calculation, manipulation and deliberation that went into one man’s agenda pales in comparison. How Jews were rounded up and herded like cattle to slaughter until the very end where they still didn’t suspect they were going to be killed horrifies me. People died with keys in pockets, thinking they were going home…

I can’t imagine what it must have been like to be one of the liberated ones. To have lived and died in one of the camps is one thing. But to live through that hell and then have to go on once liberated? Talk about being lost…

Anyway, I could go on but most of us already know the horrors of the Holocaust and sadly, subsequent genocide actions in other countries that fortunately, don’t get away with such things for too long these days. Needless to say, this was an intense day from the start and I’m still digesting everything…

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Just woke up from a nap. I’m coming down with something so decided to spend the afternoon in my room. Funny, I was so diligent about staying healthy before the trip and now that I’m here, I’m getting sick. Probably sick from the stress of so many new things - environment, climate, food, water, etc… I bought some Echinacea from the local pharmacy and hope it starts to work soon.

The only place I ventured today was to the Bible Lands Museum to see artifacts from ancient near east cultures from which all three monotheistic religions has its roots. I find that history in our human evolution so fascinating.

The food here so far has been amazing. I’ve only seen one McDonald’s - everything else is authentic dependent upon whose it is, i.e. Jewish, Arab, Moroccan, general Middle East/Mediterranean, etc. And everything from a hole-in-the-wall-would-make-our food-safety-team-cringe falafel/schwarma stand to a sit-down, full service meal with home made bread and pickled vegetables. Nothing I’ve had has been overly filling, like that “Oy, I’ll die if I eat one more morsel!” kind of full. Rather, a most satisfying full that stays with me a long time. I really haven’t had the urge to eat like I do back home, but don’t worry, I’m eating!

Of course, how well I’ve been eating will change dramatically once I move into my apartment (Thurs) and have to start cooking for myself. Everyone knows how THAT goes for me! (I have yet to check out the kosher frozen pizza isle at the local grocery store)…

Another interesting thing about eating out here is that many establishments have a security guard at the entrance checking people’s bags. Come to think of it, many of the shops do, too. Understandably, considering the security issues Israel faces. Haven’t seen too many IDF (Israeli army) out and about. I see the occasional young man or woman with rifle in hand and I ran into hordes of them at Yad Vashem but they were sightseeing like me. Aside from the bag checking and the occasional IDF, life moves along fairly normally, from what I can tell.

Friday, June 27, 2008

I’m in the midst of a full blown cold complete with congestion, sore throat, and head fuzzies. What a way to start my trip, eh?! At least I was able to see some things before I got too sick.

It’s Friday afternoon and I’m relaxing in my apartment to the sounds of my roommate and a friend of hers singing at the piano. Arlette gives voice lessons and it’s been a treat to hear some of her students. She promises me that I wouldn’t believe what they sounded like when they first started with her. I told her if she could turn my voice into something worth listening to, that would be a true miracle and testament to her talents!

So, yes, moved in here yesterday and took it easy after putting my stuff away. Did a little food shopping - boy, is that an experience! Thank goodness for pictures on products! It’ll be trial and error until I get it figured out. Especially the keeping kosher bit. I’ve decided I will keep kosher here at the apartment and at the yeshiva, but watch out when I’m on my own around town! In fact, Arlette and I each enjoyed a cheeseburger at this American-styled restaurant near here with no guilt or regret!

Saturday, June 28, 2008

My first Shabbat in Jerusalem has ended after a whirlwind. Friday night services were held at the synagogue on the campus where the yeshiva is, although it is not part of the yeshiva. To make it even more confusing, the yeshiva has its own “minyan” (service) apart from this synagogue but no Shabbat services!

Anyway, I come from a Reform background. This service is a Conservative service and I soon learned the difference. It’s much more traditional than Reform in that most of the praying (including “davening” or the swaying motions often accompanied with Jewish prayer) is done individually and led by a lay leader (not the rabbi as in Reform) who faces the ark, not the congregation. Okay, logistics aside because I’m sure if I grew up with this particular way of being Jewish, there wouldn’t be a problem. However, my first impression finds this way of praying to be most impersonal. Why come together as a community when everyone is praying separately? Where’s the one voice in that? Of course, I exaggerate somewhat because there are indeed places where the congregation chants and/or sings in unison. But for the most part, you’re on your own.

All of this wouldn’t be so bad if my Hebrew was better because the service is done completely in Hebrew. I know the main prayers but even those, I’m learning, have been abbreviated in the Reform service. And even if I did know all the prayers, I wouldn’t be able to keep up with the speed at which one is supposed to pray these prayers - oy!! Speed demons, I tell you! No one would converse this way, of course, because this is supposed to be between you and G-d but it makes it difficult to follow when you’re in my shoes! So, I just read the English (thank goodness there’s English) so I can at least get something meaningful out of it. And that’s the other issue - even if I could say all that Hebrew and that quickly, I wouldn’t have a clue what I was saying. So, it’s better I understand what I’m praying in English before I attempt the Hebrew…

Finally, the last gripe I have about the Conservative service is that there is little to no direction. Yes, there is a lay leader, but he or she merely gets people started on the right prayer and then continues more or less quietly like the rest of the congregation. Only occasionally the rabbi will shout out a page number. No direction, either, of when to sit and to stand and with all this newness, I’ve almost completely forgotten when to do so.

But no fear, that is what I’ve come here for, after all! To be completely immersed in all things Jewish, including the prayerful parts, and I will learn. The yeshiva hosts a learner’s minyan tomorrow morning so those of us who are not familiar with the Conservative service will be able to get pointers. Sitting with someone familiar with it is also helpful. I am most grateful for Arlette - she kept me on track whenever I got lost, whether in the prayer book or when to sit and stand!

On the other hand, there are those yeshiva participants who are Reform and stick to the Reform path here in Jerusalem. Reform (or Progressive, as it is known here) is not nearly as common here as it is in the US (one can find an Orthodox synagogue on practically every corner) but thankfully, the HUC (Hebrew Union College reform rabbinate) has a campus and shul here. And that is where I went this morning for Shabbat. Much better! Although that service, too, was all in Hebrew, it had the familiar dialogue with the rabbi and cantor that I enjoy so much. And lots of singing, which is common thankfully in any Jewish service.

Spent Shabbat afternoon at a lovely lunch hosted by two of the yeshiva participants who returned this summer after being here last year. In fact, there are many returning participants. A good sign, I should think!

For the evening service where we bid farewell to Shabbat for another week, Arlette led the praying and included a song, deliberately, that I would be familiar with, she’s such a doll!

Tuesday, July 01, 2008

Finally starting to feel better. My voice is almost back to normal and my head has been relatively clear for two days now, Baruch HaShem (as they say here - “blessed be G-d”). Classes are in full swing now. The week starts on Sunday in Israel, the weekend being Friday and Saturday around the Sabbath. So, I’m almost to the weekend in Jewish Standard Time!

I really like my classes so far. I’ve switched a few around that are fitting me better than I originally signed up for. Hebrew is going well - I’m in “aleph,” the beginning! Gotta start somewhere! But a lot of it is coming back to me and I feel good about what I’m picking up again.

Here has been my schedule thus far: Up at 6. At the yeshiva by 7:30 for a “learner’s minyan” to learn about the traditional Conservative service and prayer. I’m catching on, I’m happy to report. Plus some classes I’m taking also reiterate the service, which has been helpful. After this week, I’ll join the other participants for the “official” morning minyan (service).

Ulpan starts at 9 with one break and goes until 12:30. Lunch until 1:40 when we all reconvene for afternoon minyan. Afternoon classes start at 2 and vary depending upon the day of the week. In a nutshell and again, depending upon the day, I am taking a Psalms class; 8th century B.C.E Tanach (Bible) that focuses on the prophets and biblical history; another Tanach class that helps us read the Torah critically; and a leading prayer class where I’m getting more familiar with the Conservative prayer book and prayer melodies. I’m also signed up for a few out of yeshiva adventures including a walking tour of ancient synagogues and community service project at a nursing home that haven’t happened yet this week. Full days indeed!

At first, when I arranged this trip, I was concerned about how much time I’d actually be able to sight see while here, which is why I came early. But now that I’m here and experiencing the Jerusalem summer, I’m glad our schedule is full and inside where it is air-conditioned! Once the sun goes down, it does cool off enough where I’ve had to put on a light-weight sweater a few times. Thank goodness so that sleeping in a 5th floor apartment hasn’t been too bad!

So, I anticipate most of my exploration will be done in the evening or early in the morning. Last night, Arlette and I went out for dinner and then went to the Kottel (local vernacular for the Wall). It was absolutely breathtaking at night. The photos I took don’t do it justice. We sat in the women’s section (of course) and did our evening prayers. It was quite lovely…

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Photos

Apartment
Looking through the kitchen to the living room beyond. My room is to the left of the dining area.

View from our balcony
This is a windmill (one of two in Jerusalem - the other is apparently more famous)

Arlette at the yeshiva
To give you an idea of what the yeshiva looks like. Everything in Jerusalem is built with "Jerusalem stone", making it all look old, fresh, and bright at the same time. The campus is lovely.

The Wall at night -2
Adeel - the Dome of the Rock is in the background. I will get better pictures...