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Published: October 5th 2004
Emam Mosque, Esfahan
For me, mosques usually look a too garish. In Iran, the style is different and they are definitely worth checking out. This one is probably the best.Before coming to Iran, a lot of people told me this story about a traveller who, upon seeing an anti-western demonstration in Tehran (flag burning, etc.), goes up to the most angry looking demonstrator and introduces himself as English (or Inglistan as they say here). The angry man's face softens, and he gives the traveller a warm smile and handshake and says 'you are very welcome in Iran'. As it happens, this actually did happen to John Simpson of the BBC.
If you want to get a visa for Pakistan in Iran, forget it. For many, Iran is the end of the road for the Istanbul to Kathmandu trailers. I have met many of the biker community in Esfahan with their sooper-dooper BMW beasts, many of whom have had to turn back. A British or French passport is a nail in your coffin to any such travel plans.
Churchill said that Russia was 'a riddle wrapped inside a mystery inside an enigma'. I don't know any quotes about Iran (except ones about razing it to the ground), but it is pretty damn hard to nail down. One Iranian I met said that I would have to live here
Iranian Women
They want it and they are damn well going to get it (eventually). In the mean time they assert themselves whilst looking the other way. for two years before I had the slightest chance of knowing what was going on. One aspect concerns the treatment of women. Everyone knows about the subjugation of women here and the lack of human rights they have. However, compare the experience of actually being here with the rest of this region and you get a totally different picture: women in most parts of the Middle East are very much in the background, seen but not heard. In Iran all women must cover their hair with a "hejab". However, they are visible everywhere. They actually have jobs and some speak good English(which means an education), are independent minded, headstrong and come up to talk to you. This may not sound like a lot if you are in the west, but in contrast to Syria/Jordan/Egypt/East Turkey it is a revelation. Also, every traveller bloke I have spoken to has also experienced the kissy faces and flirty looks from giggly girls (but watch out, it is illegal for a foreign bloke to get jiggy with an Iranian woman and a mullah may be hiding around the corner with a sharp pair of scissors!). Having said all of that, it is still a
There is a light that never goes out
Iran is the home of the Zoroastrian (fire worshipping) religion. This flame in Yazd has apparently been burning since 470AD. mens' world from top to bottom but how long can it last with all of these pushy women around?
Oh, and my kingdom for a drink.
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anonymous
non-member comment
Women
In my visti to Iran in October 2004, I happen to speak with an informed Iranian Judge who changed his occupation to being a Lawyer for financial reason. I told him about the three reasons the "West" critisized Iran: Treatment of prisoners, women's rights, and the terrorizm (maily the Israel issue). His response to the issue of women was an eye opener to me. He said the women in Iran are actually more protected than in the west. He believe the marriage in Iran, for example, provides certain rights to women that are not known to others. He got into more details about the customes and process of marriage and proved to me that women are happier there than men. He also said something that made me think. He said in US the divorce system punished the husband unjustly in order to give certain right to the wife. While in Iran, the women are already protected during a divorce. Anyways, I believe what he said to some degree. Thanks for reading, Mahmoud-