Cyprus (Week 1)

---

---

CYPRUS

Sunday 12th February 2023 Well…...I hadn’t seen 4.30am for a while!! The taxi picked us up at the unearthly hour of 5.00am and we got to the airport about 5.45am……,and it was absolutely rammed with children and families! We had forgotten it was ½ term!! Survived anyhow and also survived the five hour flight to Cyprus! Cyprus is 2 hrs ahead of UK, so it was 15.10 when we arrived for our painless 15 minute transfer to the Dionysos Hotel.

First impressions of Cyprus – they drive on the left and a lot of English is spoken. Its very green and is sort of a mixture between UK and Spain, with a bit of Portuguese thrown in!! Hotel and room were fine and we had a quick wander along the pedestrianized paseo and watched the sunset! Back to the hotel for food and sleep!!

Monday 13th February 2023

Decided to walk along the pedestrianized paseo….the other way, and saw hotels that we had dropped other people off plus the usual cats! Loads of views and very warm in the sun…..I even got down to just a T-Shirt today!! Had a quick chat with the rep and then caught the 610 bus from the temporary bus station up to the Old Town of Paphos!

Huge disappointment as it had been completely renovated! Even the market had smart shops in! Wandered about for a bit, along the tree lined streets, had a look at the Arab Baths (the only old bit left!) before waiting 45 mins for the bus back down to the Harbour! Got off the bus ½ way down and wandered around the Temple of Aphrodite! They have built a huge walkway out over the roads that takes you up to the old tombs and the temple. Coins dating back to the Chalcolithic era (3800BC) have been found near the temple, although the shrine wasn’t completed until 1500BC. It is believed to have been built, by Kinyras, who built this temple near where she birthed from the sea and remained intact until the 3rd or 4th century!!

We then visited Agia Solomoni which is a catacomb! Chris climbed down inside – I viewed from the top!! After exploring some more catacombs and old tombs ( not sure what they were!!) went to see more old ruins – Basilica, St Pauls Pillar and 13th Chrsysopslitissa Church before going back to the hotel ( it was freezing by now as the sun had gone in!!) to watch the sunset from our balcony.



Tuesday 14th February 2023

My Parents 70th Wedding Anniversary!! I thought they deserve a mention (and a medal!!) for reaching 70 years together! They had a surprise meal with all of the family (except Alison, Zen, Monika and Steve!) on Saturday (before we left for Cyprus!) and today have been in the papers, on the radio, and Points West, the local TV station! My sisters are taking them round fish and chips for their lunch and having a cream tea with them this afternoon. Good old sisters!!!

Anyway, another sunny day here! Got the 615 bus from the Harbour Bus Station to the last stop in Coral Bay, when we changed to a 616 minibus and headed, passed loads of lemon and banana trees, towards the last stop Cape Drepano, opposite Geronisos uninhabited island! Didn’t really know what to expect so it was a lovely surprise to see an old Byzantine church when we got off the bus…..and even lovelier to look down on a little harbour. Looked inside the church, decided against going into Agios Georgios Pegaias archaeological pilgrimage site, and walked down to the little harbour! It was delightful!!

Walked along the coast admiring the rocks with their strange formations, to some sea caves and then joined the concrete path that was supposed to take us to some more sea caves! Unfortunately, the path ended ( there was a building site with luxury villas that we had to walk through!!) but we managed to pick it up again and walked past a beach that is protected for the sea turtles, that use it July-Oct! Walked on to Peyia Sea Caves which is also a protected habitat for the Mediterranean Monk Seal. Retraced our steps, avoiding the lizards that were running about back to the harbour, where we also noticed some square holes cut out of the rock, where people used to live.

Caught the bus back to Coral Bay Beach and ‘admired’ the beach!! (Glad it wasn’t our main stop!!) then caught the bus back to the catacombs again! Chris has a photo that looked like it was an apparition and he wanted to see if it was there today!!

Caught another bus back to the Bus Station and had our obligatory Italian ice-cream, before going back to the hotel!

Wednesday 15th February 2023

Today we have rented a car….for 5 days, so after Paul (7777) had dropped it off, it was a fairly easy drive along to see Aphrodites Rock 0n the B6 (after we eventually got out of Paphos!!)

Stopped with the coaches to get a view of the rock and beach. Then in the carpark where, via an underground passage, we walked on the pebble beach to the rock! Lots of people were scrambling/climbing the rock but we contented ourselves with just a view!!

We then decided to go on the red Wine Route No 4. Started off ok on the F606 got to Avidmou and just before Anogyra stopped to look at the derelict monaster of Timios Stavros, then onto Anogyra, a pretty little town with a Closed Carab Miuseum and a supermarket, where we bought some drinks.

Onto Pachna (after we had taken a wrong turn in Anogyra!) loads of almond blossom, views, grapevines and our first view of snow!! Then somehow we hit the E601 and ended up in Omodos , where we decided to have lunch in the main square! Freezing cold up there but we also visited a church and monastery with cloisters, where Dositheos the Abbot was slaughtered in 1821 by the Turks in the ‘Greek War of Independence’. Went up as far as Platres to get information on the Troodos mountains (they had cleared the road but said more snow was due) before coming back down to Agios Nikolaos where we stopped to look at a church with a metal roof,,,,only it turned out to be a mosque that the EU were renovating!! Went to Kefalos Medeival Bridge ( that the tourist office recommended) where we could park the car and walk just 100 metres to it! Definitely worth a visit as it was a very pretty road from Agios Nikolaos down to the fast flowing river, The bridge itself was quite high and steep!! Took the F617 I think back down to civilisation through the villages of Filousa, Mesana,Salamiou,Kelokedara,Stavrokonnou and Choletria where we joined the F616 and drove back to the hotel on B6 getting there about 5.00pm!! 163 kms



Thursday 16th February 2023

We decided to have a break from the mountains and have an easy day….driving to Larnaka the other side of the island? Lol!!! First of all we tried to find the Salt Lake but we missed the turning!! Eventually found it, just off the roundabout and were treated to a Salt Lake with flamingos! Also visited the Hala Sultan Mosque right on the waters edge, that is one of the most revered Islam sites in the Muslim World! Loads of cats , some were friendly, some were not!! Both sites have been inhabited since the Neolithic Age as the salt lake had the remains of a prehistoric harbour that served the nearby town in ancient times.

We then drove into town and parked the car and visited the 9thC Agios Lazaros Church. Lots of people praying, so didn’t hang around too long, but it was very impressive with its stone towers. On the way down to the sea front, saw Zachouri Mosque, and then sat on the front , admiring the ‘Founikoudes’ promenade, the fort and the marina. Decided to go into the castle/fort which wasn’t very big and also had the disadvantage of being renovated! Had a quick peer at the mosque next to it called the Kebir ( Buyuk) Mosque….I think! Walked back down through the Turkish Quarter with their big garage doors and listened to them making their metal ‘things’!!

Back to the Car and we were lucky enough to see the old Kamares aqueduct built in 1746 by the Turkish Governor of Larnaca, Bekir Pasha.

We weren’t going to, but did, come off then A6 at the UNESCO Choirokoitia Archaelogical Site and boy, was I glad that we did!! Free to go in (always a bonus!!) and then you walk up though a well preserved village from the Neolithic Age up to the top! Little circular houses located on a hillside partly enclosed by the meander of the Maroni River and the other side buy a wall over 100 metres long, 2.5 metres thick and 4 metres high!! Amazing place!

Chris then also wanted to revisit Aphrodites Rock to climb up it! It was on the way so we got to the beach when it was a wonderful light!! Chris duly climbed the rock and I stayed at the bottom and took photos!! Lovely sunset driving back and got back about 5.30pm 300km

Friday 17th February 2023

Another day in the mountains!! Decided to drive straight up to Platres and see if the road was open to Troodos!! It was – even though there was a big yellow sign that it was closed!! Followed another tourist car and the snow by the side of the road got deeper…and deeper. Then the trees started to be covered as well. And when we reached Troodos there were cars covered by snow! Fortunately (or unfortunately!!) then snow had started to melt on the trees, bringing down lumps of ice that you had to be careful to avoid!! Had a little wander around, in the sun, then drove on towards Pedoulas, in the Marathasa Valley, taking a slight detour to Mt Olympus, where we parked the car and walked up to the top!It is the highest point in Cyprus at 1952 metres. Unfortunately it was a military reserve up there, so we weren’t able to reach La Bola!! I think they were still clearing it as a snow plough came down with its chains on and snow in its shovel!!

Onto Pedoulas where we visited a 16thC Byzantium Church – the church of Archangelos Michail – which belongs to the wooden-roofed style of the Troodos Region. Covered in frescos – walls and ceilings and quite a nice small church. Not a lot seemed to opened in Pedoulas, so (apart from bumping into some people from our hotel!) we moved on to Kykkos Monastery. Stopped on the way to look at The Cross of Fithkla which dominates Pedoulas built in 1980, and also the little church – very modern but painted in the Byzantium style!

Kykkos Monastery was a bit of a wow!! It was founded in 1100 and is the richest Monastery of Cyprus and dedicated to the Virgin Mary! Apart from seeing loads of cats (always a bonus!!) the doorway to the monastery was quite magnificent with gold frescos! Inside was even better! Frescos everywhere you looked and the monks didnt seem to mind you wandering about anywhere!! Couldn’t get to the Archbishop Makarios lll at Throni as the road was closed! Maybe due to snow?

Drove back to Pedoulas (Then the petrol light came on!!) and onto Kakopetria but before we reached there we found another little church (Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis – St Nicholas of the Roof!) and it was oh so pretty! Entirely covered in frescos dating back to the 11thC.

It was now about 4.00pm so after having a quick look at the pretty village of Kakopetria (And Chris buying petrol, then nearly ran over a duck, and a cockerel that was running about in the road) decided we ought to make our way back down the mountain to get back in daylight! (It gets dark about 5.30pm!!) which is what we did via Amiantos, Pera Pedi, Koilani,Vouni and Pachna!! 237 km

Saturday 18th February 2023

We decided to combine the route of a wine tour with driving to Polis, that the book said ‘was a delighful litte seaside resort’. Drove along the coast to Pegeia and then over the mountain at Kathikas and then drop down into Polis! Beautiful views of both coasts with the lush, green valley inbetween. Tried to find the ‘seaside resort’ and then discovered that Polis wasn’t quite on the coast!! Stopped in the delightful old town for a coffee, watched a little girl who insisted that her tractor wanted to be in the middle of the junction (!!) and after viewing the church and huge statues (don’t know what that was all about!!) and an olive tree that was over 700 years old, went along the old coast road to Latsi beach, before coming to the Baths of Aphrodite – well carpark at least!!

Looked at the coastline from the cliffs and got some amazing photos of the clear blue turquoise water, small islands, rocks, garden, trees and beaches. Walked up towards the Baths of Aphrodite, saw that there was a Botanical Garden as well, and wondered why there was no charge!! Is started off so well – old olive trees, loads of cyclamen, lovely little path….and then we were at ‘The Baths of Aphrodite’!! To say we were underwhelmed would not be a lie!! Duly took photos of the pool and left via the nature trail!!

Chris then wanted to explore the Akamas Peninsular but is seemed the only way you could do it was in a 4x4 as we were unable to find a road that went over the mountains! They soon turned to dirt tracks!! However we did see a field of young donkeys and another church, Agios Minas at Neo Chrio!

Went back to Paphos via Stroumpi and checked with the Paphos bus station for buses to Nicosia, the Pelican Restaurant, whether the Archeological Park was open on a Monday….and most importantly….had an ice cream!!! 131 kms.

Sunday 19th February 2023

Kakopetria seemed so nice, we had to revisit it and it didn’t disappoint!! First we saw the ducks in the road, and then we saw the cockerels – there was two of them, hanging about in a café and on a busy road junction!! We then tried to find the old houses and walked up the street where I had seen them before! Eventually walked down to the centre again and lo and behold there was a huge sign saying .The Old Kakopetria’. We were in for a little treat!!! A whole village with traditional wooden balconies, some houses had been renovated, many had not!! It was lovely wandering about all then old streets with its churches, supermarkets and of course the cats. We then walked down to the ‘Bateph’ which turned out to be a wonderful woodland walk complete with bridges back to the centre. Had a quick peer at St Pantelejimon Church before driving back to Spilia.

Spilia felt very different to the other Troodos towns, much more militant with no tourists!! We saw aa EOKA statue with flags that turned out to be Greek Cypriot Freedom Fighters in 1955-1959, who wanted British Rule to come to an end, and Cyprus to be reunited with Greece! We were then going to Drive through Saranti, Lagoudera and a load of other small villages to Palaichori, but it was a road not cleared of snow and they advised snow chains so we turned round. Plan B!!

We were up in the snow line again, and decided to drive down a bit to Kyperounta and Chandria before stopping at Agros where we had a look at the Old Church and New Church as well as the natural spring, before driving via Potamitissa and Pelendri. Fantastic views of old villages in valleys and almond blossom with yellow flowers everywhere! Found the Old Church of Timios Stavros (shut!!)and then drove onto Trimiklini. Where we visited yet another Old Church (Panayias Eleousis! )and New Church (both shut!!) as well as a Farmers Market.

Went to Panagia Amasgous Monastery near Agios Georgios that we are allowed to walk around! It was quite funy peering in the windows at their dining room….with all their pills and supplements piled in one corner of the table.

Turned right just before Alassa and went along the side of the dammed lake to Kouris dam, that we were able to drive across before dropping down to the Motorway and back to the hotel! 243 kms

---