The coastal and highland circuit


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Published: July 19th 2009
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Wednesday 15th July
The coastal and highland circuit
After the big day out yesterday we thought a short drive today would be enough for us.So we opted for a circuit that took in the coast and also the inland highlands.
With lesser distance to travel we didn’t need to be away so early and we could be more leisurely about breakfast and even allow ourselves to indulge in a bit of junk TV in the guise of The Jeremy Kyle Show!!
So after Jeremy had sorted out two lots of couples with relationship problems we hit the road back out of town down Loch Broom.With only one road in and out of town we had to go back over the road we had travelled when we arrived.This is against our principles of not repeating roads we have already been driving on but we had no option!!
Twelve miles from Ullapool we turned south on the A832 and stopped at the National Trust,Corrieshalloch Gorge.
This natural feature caught us a bit by surprise as we haven’t come across anything quite like the deep gorge on our travels around Scotland with all of the outstanding scenery being either hills/mountains or coastal.
The very deep gorge was crossed by a swing bridge and we noted that a sign on entry onto the bridge said there was to be no more than 6 people on the bridge at once.Luckily the crowd ahead of us had passed over the bridge when we arrived so we had the bridge to ourselves.
The drop to the river was at least 100 feet or more and we both walked smartly over with the floor of the swing bridge noticeably moving under our footsteps.
The path then led on through some attractive bush to a platform canterlevered out over the gorge.Again a notice said 6 people at once was all that was allowed at any one time so we waited for a mixed group of adults and children from Europe to take in the sight before we had the platform to ourselves.The view up the gorge to the swingbridge was spectacular with the river far below running quite full after the rain of the past day.
The road then headed north again to Little Loch Broom which was over the hill from Ullapool,where we were staying and had commenced today’s trip from.The road climbed steadily up parallel from the loch and from a parking area just before the road headed away from the loch we took in the magnificent views of the loch and the steep hills that rose from it.
At Gruinard Bay we came across the oddly named localities of Second Coast and then First Coast.We are still trying to make out why these two spots got such a name that seemed out of character with this part of Scotland other than the fact that they were both on the coast.
Over the hill and Loch Ewe was before us.From the height the road was above the loch which opened to the sea there were panoramic views to the Western Isles.And with the fine clear weather today the islands were clearly visible.
Ahead of us we noticed an unusual structure in the loch close to the shore although from the distance we were we couldn’t make out exactly what it was.
As we drove on further it became apparent that what was on the wharf jutting out into the loch was a refuelling installation for small ships.Then it became obvious what it was all about as on a fence was a notice warning people to keep out of the NATO area.Alittle further up the road there was a roadside display which outlined Loch Ewe’s part along with its residents of the time in the Second World War.The loch which is a natural deep water harbour with direct access to the Atlantic Ocean,played an important part in the chain of ports used by the Arctic convoys from Britain to Russia .
There were snippets from sailors and shorebased wartime personnel about their lives based at Loch Ewe and how inhospitable the place was particulary in winter time.Today the loch looked to be taking off with new seaside holiday homes having been built and the camping ground looked to be a popular place to vacation.
Gairloch on the loch of the same name was our lunchtime stop.We sat above the bay and watched locals swimming in the sea despite what must have been cold water.We had seen locals at various beaches on our travels around Scotland but none to date had been in the water.The air temperature today at 17C was certainly better than the 12C or 13C we had yesterday in the showers but it still wouldn’t get us anywhere near the water!!!
After lunch the road took a turn inland to soon be running alongside the picturesque Loch Maree.The hills above the loch were too steep to farm as they were on the other side above the road we were travelling on making the scene all around us devoid of animals but with grass and tussock at the higher levels.It was a pleasant countryside run with only a small amount of traffic to contend with.
Soon we were back at the A835 completing the circuit back to Ullapool before 4pm,a much earlier end today than yesterday.

The Coastal and

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