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Published: August 25th 2019
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Orkney. Rousey and Kirkwall.
52 miles (including 8 on ferry). 850m ascent.
At the Broch of Gurness I was speaking to the warden and commenting on what a good day it was turning out to be. He said, ’Yes it is, we had one like this 2 years ago.’ Very dry humour, but it was the best weather so far and the first time I have exposed my bare legs - now that’s a pretty sight. Gurness is only 2,500 years old as opposed to Scara Brae at double that. It was built in the Iron Age and has a central tower and very small houses surrounding it and encircled by a moat or cutting. It appears to have been quite a civilised place. Earlier a quick visit was made to the Click Mill on the road out of Dounby. This was a simple grain mill with a water wheel on its side driving straight up to a shaft turning the grindstones. Maybe not very efficient but does not need bevel gears to turn the motion of the wheel by 90 degrees as in other mills. We shot down the road from Gurness and just missed the ferry to Rousey
by only 5 minutes. It was 100 yd’s out and my shouting AHOY at full volume for its return fell on deaf ears, I am afraid, so a 70 minute wait ensued, giving Trevor time to do a quick painting of the boats in the harbour. The three racing snakes had missed seeing Gurness and had darted to the ferry and went without us. Can you believe it? Inside the passenger cabin we endured the 10 minute safety talk that was incomprehensible above the sound of the engine underneath our feet. Why do they bother? Luckily dry land appeared quite quickly and I could take out my hearing aids. The Crafthub cafe at the docks was open so we went in for a snack, although to some of our group a snack can be a monster meal. The weather was still good with bright sun and the temperature at around 20 degrees as we climbed up the west side of Rousey. With the wind behind us it was absolute magic, even though it was a 7% gradient. We unfortunately passed Midhowe Broch as time was getting short and we went around the island until we were heading south and the
helpful wind became a hindrance. Yet despite this the 8% climb was very exhilarating, especially when Steve took over the lead taking some of the wind off us and taking us up into the lowering cloud. After coming to a serious descent we were careful not to get too carried away and stopped at a road branching off to the right. A quick phone call proved that it was the correct one and off we sped for tea and cakes at my previous neighbours house. This was a treat for both of us since she rarely visits Clitheroe since moving to the northern periphery of the universe. The ferry eventually called us and off we went, mostly downhill, to meet it at 1520. Once on the mainland of Orkney we were in brilliant sunshine again and the route took us along the coast south into the wind again until we spied a strange tower-like building which turned out to be a dovecote built in 1646 on the Rendall Estate. It has slates protruding all around it to prevent rats climbing up it. Despite the wind which had got up during the afternoon it was a pleasant journey to Kirkwall and
the Peedie Hostel around the coast. One more day left where we go south and then home to Blighty.
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