Kilts - Kastles - Koncerns

---

Edinburgh, Scotland, September 29 - October 5, 2023


Well that's a visit never to be repeated....apologies to Edinburgh lovers....

Are there any other kind of shop besides ones flogging souvenirs made in foreign lands. While looking for tartan scarves one had to double and triple check that the scarf was made a) from real wool from Scot sheep and b) that it was manufactured on Scot soil.

Princes Street is either missing a second 's' or an apostrophe.

Some bus stops are so far apart one might as well walk. Let it be said that once the bus schedule is cracked there is enjoyment in bus travel....OK....so its on the other side of the road ...and that must be remembered when going here or there ... and even though per ride it was not cheap at 2pounds 90, a day pass was 5pounds and once the map of the bus and tram routes was precurred it was easy peasy getting around..if a stop had not been moved because of construction. Apparently the South Bridge has been under construction for four years... the South Bridge stop is disappeared ... I will never complain about Sudbury Ontario road work again... at least it eventually gets finished and I love the Maley Drive https://www.greatersudbury.ca/live/transportation-parking-and-roads/construction-projects/maley-drive-extension/....... please let Frood Road be finished soon.

But I regress....................

To get to Edinburgh from Shetland we traveled by taxi to the Somburg Airport sharing with two women from Portland, Oregon. The taxi arrived at 07.00. After an hour and 65pounds(shared) we waited for the 09.15 flight. Once again we were forced to check in our CARRY-ON bags. Logan air craft so small??

and we land in Edinburgh.

. As we wait for our bags the luggage belt spews out luggages from three flights. I counted more than fifteen heavily loaded golf bags... we must have landed in the vicinity of St. Andrews ( 50 km from Edinburgh )that mecca for golfers.

“St. Andrews is a seaside town northeast of Edinburgh, on Scotland’s east coast. It's known for its many golf courses, including the Old Course, with the landmark Swilcan Bridge at the 18th hole. The British Golf Museum chronicles the history of U.K. golf. On a headland nearby are the ruins of St. Andrews Castle, with its medieval bottle dungeon. Close to the castle is the University of St. Andrews, founded in 1413. “― Google

after all unclaimed suitcases went round and round and round... SHERRY'S CARRY-ON DID NOT ............APPEAR!!!

This was exactly why we decided to only do carry on...we had to leave the airport and make our way into the city...sans luggage.

Asking about entry into the city we were advised to take the cheaper scenic route not the more expensive ugly route...never did see the ugly ... only the un-nice junk (souvenir) shops.

Airport bus drops us at St. Andrew's Sq. We walk to the 30 Bus stop and make our way to Marchhall Place...ooops too soon... walk too far ....who knew I had to turn left at Priestfield Street....won't make that mistake twice. Stepped into a dentist office to ask for directions. We had walked right past the street we were to turn left on.

Finally we arrive at Marchhall Crescent...big difference.

The hotel is absolutely lovely. Xcept for the fact that we are on the forth floor and must negotiate 44 carpeted curved step up and 44 carpeted curved steps down. This is not doing my knee any favours.

When booking with booking.com where I am a 20% discount genius member, it was be imperative to always have twin beds. This Hotel Ceilidh-Donia was rated at 9.3 and it totally lived up to that rating. The innkeeper and his wife were so very involved, interesting and concerned. I told Kevin that the next time I come to his hotel I want room number one not 18 in the attic.

https://www.hotelceilidh-donia.co.uk/en-GB

Once we divested ourselves of MY lugagge, we retraced our steps to Princes Street, to shop.


•
at Boots for stronger painkiller, frankensense and winter green and possibly a brace
•
theb race at 20pounds turned out to be useless ...no francensense or winter green...can be bought at Holland &Barrett
•
stronger painkiller turns out to be codeine...over the counter and habit forming
•
next Primax...Sherry needs underwear
•
I bought tights, along sleeved top and a RED undershirt
•
then we wandered forever reading all the menus posted outside restaurants situated on the closed off street.
•
The pubs were all noisy, full, and had sticky banisters
•
Finally decided on an mussels in spaghetti not to be confused with noodles(the server had a cow when I wanted spaghetti noodles) and a spaghetti carbonaro dish, with a salad, in a quiet glass clean restaurant. Delicioso!
•
We was done in..... and taxi back to the Hotel for 14pounds
•
= $25 dollars....who cares ... my knee hurts!






SATURDAY, Sept.30

-good sleep in great room -lovely bed linen - great bathroom ....although little space to put things down - no where to hang laundry...hangers are fixed to closet rod

- laundry gathered to be done here in hotel... in Lerwick nothing dried properly and many pieces had been washed by hand...machine wash had become imperative

-wonderful reception by Kevin, a most kind and engaging individual

-breakfast included spinach x 2, undrinkable coffee, perfect sunny side up eggs and floppy brown toast

after small relax I hobble to bus stop for the #2 and we are on our way to the Grassmarket, ... apparently open to private vendors only on Saturday

-upon alighting we literally fall into a perfect coffee place and enjoy immensely REAL coffee and a carrot cake that is delightful except for the wonderful icing that had one too many cups of sugar in it.

-lots of wandering ...lots of photos... I gander up the castle steps and am happier with the view than the negotiation of the escalating stone stairs, and not escalators like in Rio to the Holy Redeemer.

-the wisteria vine covering the side of a building leading to the castle stairs was impressive ...especially this time of year.

-the penchant for decorating doorways and archways with MASSES of very perfect plastic arrangements persists thru out ..and such lovely displays they are fit to win first prize at any horticultural show.

And the souvenir shops abound ...I was lured into one which had a stuffed life sized Highland Coo in the window.

- https://www.visitinvernesslochness.com/itinerary/where-to-find-highland-cows


-bought a black watch tartan scarf with matching gloves (like I need to buy gloves...she who knits) and six little tins of tea each with a different UK icon, all packed in a box.

- I purchased from an independent crafter a microwave heat pad with gold mushrooms for to heat in the oven because I have no microwave and a pewter bracelet that fit so well on my wrist I quickly handed over 30pounds.


• lunch came our way after standing in line behind "hungry for paella" souls. The take-away was delish with plenty of chicken and too too much rice.
• There was a man in a shop who sat at his electric circular knitting machine knitting sweater parts who had conversed with me before the paella. Returning on the other side of the vendors in the square rectangular Saturday Market I popped into his shop again to ask for information about god knows what. And then I felt compelled to buy a small thing, The smallest I could find was a hat made from it seemed the left over bits of his bigger sweaters. Colours were good ...it fit... and now I have paid for my habit of not asking what is the cost. Seventy English pounds later I cannot even donate it to a dear friend. I must hang this folly in my closet ....and learn to ask the price! 30GBP= $52 OMG
• returning to the hotel I stopped off at Holland and Barrett...a sort of health food store .. and bought frankincense, no myrrh and CDS cream ....in hopes of making the knee feel more ready to play wandering traveler.



• The green grocer next door provided some fruit and paneer for an evening snack
• In the evening I sew on patches, some bought at Edinburgh Fabrics ....what an emporium of fine material and sewing knickknacks. Thread, tartan buttons and thistle fabric that will be the backing of that fair isle thistle scarf that should have been ready for the Wool Week that just past, were quickly decided upon, No Wool Week for me in 2024 but I will be making that scarf...the winters are long and my knee needs rest and elevation...hope I find the wool I bought OMG before COVID.
• Boo Hoo.
• And then...great shower...great bed...great sleep...sorry for the snoring Sherry






SUNDAY, October 1

I love bus excursions.... cheap...far reaching... explorative of new neighbourhoods... with the possibility of meeting interesting individuals.

From Edinburgh the bus travels the miles to Dunbar, a seaside town famous for a disintegrated castle ...

Dunbar Castle was one of the strongest fortresses in Scotland, situated in a prominent position overlooking the harbour of the town of Dunbar, in East Lothian. Several fortifications were built successively on the site, near the English-Scottish border. The last was slighted in 1567; it is a ruin today. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunbar_Castle

Dunbar is ( also) the birthplace of the explorer, naturalist, and influential conservationist John Muir. The house in which Muir was born is located on the High Street, and has been converted into a museum. https://ourdunbar.com/town-centre/


• once in Dunbar soup at Graze served with very thick bread had a nice colour was in need of some spice and some salt. The chicken avocado, again on THICK bread and not spread to the edge. with a the flat white coffee was good.
•
Seeking out access to the harbour, we finally found a way down to the sea
• being a Sunday all the fishing boats, their nets, their buoys, their lobster cages, lay idle.
• The harbour chippy was closed for the season not to smell of burning oil again until April
• it was harbour enough to make great pictures
• spoke to a couple who had just bought their forever home in Dunbar
• Dunbar Castle is closely linked to two major events in the tumultuous life of Scotland's most famous queen. In 1566 Mary came here with her second husband, Lord Henry Darnley, just two days after the murder of Mary's secretary David Rizzio - a murder in which Darnley himself was heavily involved. See pics and read more here: https://www.britainexpress.com/scotland/Lothian/castles/dunbar-castle.htm
• The bus back to Edinburgh traveled past many lovely houses I could not afford to live in.... no Escape to the Country here.
• A quick stop was made at M&S for food..salad,tabouli,greek salad, honey dressing in 100ml bottle and CREAM for instant Nescafe coffee in a tube in the hotel. It was quite the lovely dinner eaten in our room at the top of 44steps up and 44 steps down.
• Some kitting...some listening with ear pods....much falling asleep.
•


MONDAY, October 2, The Firth of Forth

Today Sherry and I split up. I need to see a red bridge ...

Why is the Forth Bridge famous?The Forth Bridge is a celebrated Scottish landmark, and a milestone in the development of railway civil engineering. It was the first major structure in Britain to be made of steel and its construction resulted in a continuous East Coast railway route from London to Aberdeen.

A man in a white shirt, at Waverly Place, obviously a bus driver, advised me to take Bus 43 to the Queensferry Police Station stop. Very good advice ... so easy to follow and in little over a half hour of travel time I come within sight of the bridge. Searching a cobbled stone street down to the waterfront, the full panorama of the structure presents itself. The Forth Bridge Trail following the waters edge with info plaques, has been closed so as to allow water's edge improvement. Trying to walk past the front doors of houses comes to a sudden stop when the last house seems to have decided to enclose their postage stamp space in front of their house door with an iron fence and no second gate.. No thru way here....

Retracing my steps I again encounter the couple from Dubai who also are trying to get a perfect view of the Forth Bridge.

As well as the red bridge one there are bridges two and three, each in its own right a phenomenal feat of engineering. https://www.theforthbridges.org/

Once the need to get a clear view of the bridge has been satisfied and I have taken a few good shots the search for a coffee and a snack begins. The hotel breakfast had been substantial but a good kuppa ( not tea in this case) is always welcome. A choice of three presented itself ... definiely not the place advertised by two wrough tiron fish and a flight down to sea level. Suddenly the perfect place., with large full glass view of all three bridges came into view ... laid back atmosphere....toilet on the main floor .... and set up for tea and cake. I chose a flat white and vanilla creme brulle....some lunch!!

Sitting with the three bridges in view was a great relax ... but the hobble to the police station bus stop had to be undertaken. The return route went past houses which once again I could not afford. The stone walls made from glacial debris found in the fields continue to fascinate and the green edges grow just high enough so that one cannot count the sheep or cows or cabbages in the fields. Two huge fields, one with red and one with white cabbage, flashed past...the bus went just fast enough to imprint a general pic of a cabbage on the brain....definitely not barley or corn or soy.

Once back in Edinburgh the 3 takes me to St. Patrick's Sq. Even if I hobble, I am going to check out the eight 8 yes eight charity shops ....all in a row.on the same side of the street.

Now having been to the UK numerous times, and in various places, I expect treasures to be found in a charity shop because of course they all compete with one another to get that pound toward heart operations, cat spading, save the children, international red cross, oxfam, free vet care, and the list goes on.

Well...this time I was most bitterly disappointed....nothing ... but clothes wafting with that old closet smell which will probably never wash out and with styles my mother would not wear. No Treasures in Edinburgh...told you no need for a second visit.

I did happen upon a second hand bookshop. Now here I found a treasure...Giles Milton's Nathanial's Nutmeg... picked it up immediately to share space on my bookshelves with the Story of Salt and the History of Cod and of course hose two books about ...Tea: A History of the Drink That Changed the World John C. Griffiths and Yemen coffee, The Monk of Mokha, Eggers, Dave

Trying to buy food for the evening repas was an ordeal of waiting and was restricted in choice. The Uni students come out of class at around four....just when I go into Lidl. First the choices of salad and or quinao preparations is extremely slim and then the lineup to pay for my three choices is not only as long as the length of the shop but the queue winds around itself three times. And then those lined up are separated between cash payment, card payment or self-serve cashiers.

So with salad, cheese and a bun I head back to hotel where Sherry's purchases add to a passable evening meal.

Sherry's luggage has still not arrived.



TUESDAY, October 3, Post Office and Train Station

The post office was the easiest part of the day. After a short walk down from Priestly Street the post office was reached. The post mistress in black hijap was a great help. She had to reach high to get down a plastic envelope large enough for my collection of bits to send home. Fifty pounds later the bits....clothes and gifts and my Birckys ... were on their way.

And we are off ...to the Museum of the City of Edinburgh. Housed in a 500yr old building it was a collection of small rooms reaches by steps and walk thrus also at differnt levels. Before entering this somewhat disappointing collection of Edinburgher artifacts the gift shop presented itself...of course. One startling specimen in the museum was a wooden water pipe. The docent was somewhat helpful and explained well the topics of my queries ...of course I have forgotten what I asked her.

Lunch was had in a small hole in the wall offering goat cheese and salad on a baguette with a lovely unrecognizable red sauce. It was sublime...finally a real piece of bread! The coffee also was delish albeit served in a paper beaker

Finding the bus stop outside the museum I waited almost twenty minutes, with day pass in hand, .for the bus to take to the top of the Royal Mile. I waited while Sherry walked up the other side of the Royal Mile ( filled again with numerous junky souvenir shops) checking out if anything of interest could be found. I did see her linger before the shop that offered various brands of Scotch whiskey.

While waiting for the bus...a long time coming...conversation with a fellow waiter began. And didn't she ask me about Trudeau and his recent faux pas. All I told her was that I did not vote for him and would not in the future. Finally the bus arrived and transported me all of one stop up the street...well maybe two.With Sherry, already at the top of the street we walked the Royal Mile further towards the tourist office.

We had stopped at the Black Sheep for a coffee and I had bought an umbrella in the Barbour shop. Having a look at present day Barbour styles I must confess I will stick with my 38 yr old model which is thankful for every oil application and has much more character than the ne models hanging in the Ediburgh shop. I did not evenbothe to lookat the prices. My green egyptian cotton Barbour in 1985, in Toronto Canada cost me $500.

https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/beaufort-barbour-jacket-celebrities

According to fashion folklore, the late Queen Elizabeth II was so attached to her Barbour Beaufort jacket that when the brand offered to replace her waxed cotton, corduroy-collared style with a newer iteration, she opted to hold on to her well-loved original for 25 years.

The purple "I" beckoned. The lady helper had no idea about how to get to Falkirk Wheel. She fumbled around this and that. She did give me a definitive map of the public transport system. Still no real help about getting to Falkirk. Much better information was to be had at the train station ticket seller. We needed tickets for Windemere and at the same time I asked about Falkirk. Both requests were fulfilled and we walked out of the station happy.

Once more M&S was visited for a nice salad of mediterannian flavour and a quinoa or couscous concoction.

At the end of this day I was relieved that I had not forgotten to go to Falkirk Grahamston. To get a ticket for the barge that takes passengers up and to the higher level of water was impossible because the site wanted to use my phone to send the code to make payment final. Nothing worked. With a bit of an anxious feeling I prepared to fo by train to Falkirk next day and hope the barge had a spare seat for this Canadian whose only two musts in Edinburgh are the Forth Bridge and the Falkirk Wheel ... the rest is icing on the cake.

The Falkirk wheel is so stupendous it will get an entry of its own. But for those nor familiar with the amazing construction here is a little tease

https://www.scottishcanals.co.uk/visit/canals/visit-the-forth-clyde-canal/attractions/the-falkirk-wheel

---