Train Kept a Rolling...

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Lynne and I depart Cardiff, Wales on Friday, 27 June 2008. Our next stop is Leominster (pronounced Lemsta) , Herefordshire, England. We had pre-booked 3 nights in the hostel there. We purchased our tickets and boarded the train. The train heads towards Manchester in the Midlands. There are two coaches (cars) on this train and they fill up rapidly. We are forced to put our backpacks in the back of the coach and take our seats near the front of the coach. We settled in for the two-hour train ride to Leominster. We enjoy the views of the English countryside as the train heads north. We stop in small towns along the way.

Although we had pre-purchased a two-month Eurial pass for train travel in Europe, rail companies in the UK do not honor this pass. We knew this ahead of time so no major problem on our part. We purchase our train tickets in the UK as we go. We could have purchased a multi-day Britrail pass, but it did not seem like the economical option.

For those of you who have never had the pleasure of rail travel in Europe, let me take a few moments to let you know how this all works. It’s really a simple way to travel. After you determine where you desire to go, the next step is to figure out when you will travel. Different regions have different schedules and some of the printed train schedules can be a little difficult to understand. If you can figure them out, you are good to go. Otherwise, show up to the train station and ask. Trains typically depart on a regular basis. Most trains run every hour, but some of the more rural routes only run once or twice a day. There are multiple ways to buy your tickets—use the electronic kiosk, buy directly from the ticket window. Some smaller stations have neither service and post signs to buy your ticket on the train. First class tickets are also an option if you have a few extra pounds to spend. You can pay a few extra pounds to reserve a specific seat. This must be done prior to the train departing its point of origin.

Once on board, a ticket person will come by to validate your ticket. After every stop, they make the rounds and check tickets. Except in those cases where you have to purchase your ticket on the train, you will be fined if you do not have a ticket. Once on board, you settle in until you reach your destination. On most trains, there is typically a rail attendant (much like a flight attendant) who rolls a cart through the aisle to sell snacks and beverages.
On the way to Leominster (Lemsta), the train stopped on the tracks for about ten minutes. At first I thought this was routine and we were waiting for another train to pass and switch tracks. I later found out that a woman attempted suicide by laying down on the tracks. The train had to wait until authorities were able to get her off of the track—wow now that’s some serious drama, sad, but very real. When the train started down the track again, Lynne saw the woman sitting by the side of the track.

Now, let me get on with a hilarious story during our ride from Cardiff to Leominster. As I had said, our packs were in the back of the coach. As the train approached our stop, I stood up and noticed that the rail attendant had the service cart in the aisle about halfway through the coach. There was no way I was going to be able to get to the packs. I quickly formed a game plan on how I would get the packs. When the train pulled into the station, I gave Lynne our day packs and quickly jumped off the train and ran to the back of the coach. I jumped in the rear entrance to grab the backpacks. Lynne waited on the platform while I gathered the bags. I grabbed the bags and headed back to the door it was only about 10 feet away. As soon as I got to the door, it slammed shut. I pushed the open button and it didn’t open the door. I looked back at the rail attendant and hollered “The door won’t open”. She gave me a glazed over look as if she was either in a trance or heavily medicated. I’m not sure which. I then tried the button again and no luck. I then hollered to her “I need to get off this train—I need this door open NOW”. She was still on another planet or maybe even a completely different universe. Maybe she was one of those aliens who built Stonehenge.

I had now gained the attention of every sole on this coach. All of them gave me a sheer look of pity. At the same moment that I assessed their looks, I felt the train begin to move. I said to myself “Holy Sh!t this train is leaving and I’m still on it.” I had no idea where the next stop was or how I would get back. I immediately thought about Lynne being stranded on the platform, but knew she would be alright.

The rail attendant then came out of her trance and summoned the assistance of the ticket checker. She made her way past the service cart and says “What seems to be the problem here?” I said “The problem is that the rail assistant was blocking the aisle and I couldn’t get to my bag. I went around and just as I got my bags the doors closed.” I then asked her how I was going to get back to this station and where is the next stop”. The ticket lady then checked her little handheld computer and said I most likely just missed the next train coming from Ludlow. Ludlow was only 11 minutes away. She wrote a note on my ticket to allow me a free ride back to Leominster. I then asked her to contact the station to let Lynne know I would be on the next train back. Once I got to Ludlow, I realized then next train would not be for another hour. I can now officially add Ludlow, England to my list of places I have visited in this vast world of ours. I had some time to kill so I sat back and relaxed for a few moments. I set the packs on a bench and walked about ten feet when I heard the overhead announcement. “For your safety and the safety of others, do not leave baggage unattended. Report all unattended bags to authorities.” So, I walked right back to the bags, even though I was the only person on the station platform. I do a quick survey of the station. With no one else in sight, I fire up a cigarette. Not 10 seconds after I fire it up, I hear “Smoking in not allowed anywhere in the train station, please refrain from smoking in the station.” OK, so now I start looking for the hidden cameras—no cameras anywhere in site. Now I really start getting freaked out and think maybe it was the alien—you know the rail attendant. I start scanning the skies for the mother ship thinking they were going to beam me up at any moment. The skies were clear, so I determined that these are regularly timed announcements and enjoy the rest of my smoke. I then begin to chuckle about the whole situation of being stuck on the train and had a great laugh. A fellow traveler once told us that there were two things you needed to pack on any trip. One was a good pair of shoes and the other was a good sense of humor—thank goodness we packed ours with us.

An hour later I jumped on the train and stayed right at the door with both bags. I arrived in Leominster to be re-united with my lovely bride. We gather our wits and head off towards the hostel. Lynne informs me that the station didn’t have a public toilet so she had to go real soon. We snake our way through the narrow streets and past the cathedral to the hostel. We arrive at the front door right after 2:00PM. The sign on the door said that reception was closed from 10:00AM until 5:00PM. This is known in the hostel world as lock out times, but none of the guides stated this information. Lynne having to go real bad, heads around the building to the social services office. They refuse to let her use the facility and state that they are not part of the hostel. She comes back on the verge of tears. I told her to wait right there and head of towards the Grange. I find a public toilet and tell her we will go there. Just then the receptionist from the hostile popped her head out the door and let us in but wouldn’t check us in until 5:00PM. Lynne uses the facility and we head off into town.

Wow—so far our experiences in this little village have started off in the wrong direction. We stroll around town and begin to relax. This becomes a charming little market village with a small central square and narrow streets. We head over to the Tourist Information Center (TIC) and gather information about the town and area. We grab a sandwich at the Flying Dutchman Café then head out to explore this little town. We head over to the library to use the internet, but they only have one “visitor” computer and it was being used. We were kindly asked to come back tomorrow. We then found a local discount market and picked up groceries for the next couple of days.

We returned to the hostel and checked in. The hostel is a renovated dorm previously occupied by monks at the old priory. Primitive, yet simple with a cozy common room and kitchen, but the TV didn’t work. We cooked dinner in the kitchen and cleaned up. After dinner, we sat back and watched a movie on the laptop and settled in for the evening.
On Saturday morning, we woke up at our leisure and had breakfast. We secured a book from reception about leisurely walks around Leominster. We went back to the library and were able to use the internet for 30 minutes. This particular hostel did not have internet access so this was a blessing and it was free. We walked around town and began to get hungry again. We were on a hunt for some good fish and chips. We ducked into a local greeting card shop and asked the shop keeper if she knew where to get good fish and chips. She said she wasn’t from Leominster. About that time, 3 customers began to give us directions to the fish and chips shop. I must have had a glazed over look because one lady said “come with me and I’ll point you the way”. Wow, another unexpected act of kindness. As we were walking, I asked her if she was going this way. She said she was going the other way but not to worry. Wow—you wouldn’t find this type of kindness in too many parts of the world. She walked us right to the shop, we thanked her kindly and headed about our separate ways.

We entered the fish and chips shop at about 1:30 and they were about to close out their mid day meal and not open again until the evening. The display case had 4 large pieces of cod. The shop keeper said that if we had a few moments, he would cook us some fresh fish. We told him not to worry because he was about to close. He then said “I’ll give you a large and only charge you for a small.” Another example of kindness. We were really warming up to this small little market town now. We grabbed the fish and headed to the Grange (the local park) and enjoyed the wonderful fish and chips.

After letting our meal settle, we headed out on our first local hike (the Brits call these walks). Walking is a huge pastime in the English countryside. Our hike (walk) would take us up a hill overlooking the whole town of Leominster. Let me explain that there are public footpaths all over the English countryside. Many of these trails cross through private lands. Local property owners allow people to walk on their property as long as they do not leave trash behind or harass their livestock. Our route would take us through grain fields, corn crops, and right through and industrial park. Because many of these footpaths cross private land, stiles are erected to assist walkers in climbing over fences. These stiles are like ladders that allow you to climb the fences with ease. The hike was remarkable, but challenging in some areas because the vegetation had grown over the trail. Some of this vegetation included wild blackberries. The braches had thorns and proved to be a challenge navigating around and over them.
We returned to the hostel, ate dinner and retired for the evening.

On Sunday, we determined that we would take our first break from traveling. We would just hang out in the hostel and relax. It has been three weeks since we started the trip and we were ready for a break. We were staying right next door to the St. Peter and St. Paul Church. This is a traditional old church and had the traditional massive bell tower. The church bells began 9:00 in the morning and continued through the services. It was awesome to know that this music was not recorded. The bell ringers were making their music for the town to hear. We learned that bell ringers are a very close knit community and it takes years of practice and apprenticeship to learn to become a great bell ringer. Many bell ringers can travel to another town and join in the bell ringing at any church. They volunteer to do this because they take great pride in doing it for the community. The rest of the day was uneventful and relaxing.

Monday, 30 June 2008, we head up to the gateway to the Lake District (Kendal, England). This will require riding 3 different trains with stops in Crewe and Lancaster. From Kendal, we are working our way north and will be in Scotland within the next few days. Look for our next update in the near future.

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Photos

Grange Hall
Gange Hall--centrpiece of Leominster

Holding the Bag
John with both backs--waiting for the train back to Leonminster.

Shopping cart (trolley) locks
These shopping carts are locked together. You insert a 1 pound coin in the slot and it unlocks. When you are done, you return the cart, clip it back in and retrieve your 1 pound. Brilliant becasue the store doesn't have to pay someone to retrieve carts from the parking lot (car park)

Lawnmower Man
In he Grange at Leominster

Public Footpath
SIgns pointing the way to one of the hiking (walking) trails

Amber waves of grain
On the trail in the English countyside.

Comments

[BC]

:)
I live just outside Leominster and it's great to hear how much you liked it!! I love it too. :) Herefordshire is the loveliest place in England.

[LTD Passport]

Great Stop
Leominster is not on too many people's travel agenda, but we could certainly recommen this charming little market town to anyone who wants to experience English living at it's finest.