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Published: August 4th 2017
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My darling sister Charlotte met me at Bristol airport some time after 7.30pm in the evening of Wednesday 26 July, the plane having been late arriving from Pisa airport where it had been absolute pandemonium. Lovely to see Charlotte patiently waiting for me as I came out into the public area; before too long she was driving me to Hereford where she's living at the moment and which was further from Bristol than I imagined it would be.
My brother-in-law John, niece Emily and her partner Andy were all waiting for me; fantastic to see them all again. It was also good, after a bite to eat to settle into my bedroom.
Waking shortly after 5am I enjoyed a beautiful sunrise over the fields towards the city of Hereford; the view from my bedroom window. After breakfast, Charlotte and I were on our way to discover some of what Hereford had to offer. After a bit of a wander around, and a coffee, Charlotte drove us to the National Trust Brockhampton Estate which has been a settlement from Anglo Saxon times although the first official mention appears in the 12th century when Bernard Brockhampton rented 50 hectares from the
Bishop of Hereford. Early in the 15th century a Richard Habington, by then the owner of the land and house, made significant changes to the property. But it wasn't until 1946, when the then owner Colonel Lutley bequeathed the entire 690 hectare estate to the National Trust, complete with two large houses, four farms and a number of smaller cottages that the wider public could discover the stories of the people who once lived in this moated medieval manor house. Each of the rooms are dedicated to the various owners, and decorated as it would have been then. What a gem it is.
Charlotte volunteers each Monday in the charming little bookshop but before she took me in there we were greeted by Richard Habington who lived there with his wife Joyce and three daughters, Mary, Eleanor and Jane in the 16th century.
We ate a delicious lunch in the NT café situated in one of the outhouses after we'd spent a good deal of time looking over the house. Should you be visiting the Heart of Hertfordshire, Brockhampton Estate is well worth a visit. As Charlotte said, when driving down into the valley through the woods, it
was like descending into Middle Earth!
From there we drove to Hay-on-Wye which, with a town full of bookshops, it has a yearly Book Festival. While it's a cute town I think it would have a lot more going for it when the book festival is on.
The following day, Friday 28th, Charlotte and I headed off back into Hereford to check out more of the historical areas to be explored. First stop was to see what is known as the Black and White House; a half-timbered Jacobean building built in the centre of Hereford in 1621 which is now a museum. When it was built in 1621 it was part of Butchers' Row consisting of butchers, ironmongers and bankers. By 1816, the other buildings in the row were started to be demolished just leaving the B & W house which was probably first occupied by the wealthy butcher John Jones, his wife Mary and their children Elinor, Margaret, Tomas and Alice. Apparently Mary Jones was often in trouble with the law. "Mary Jones is...a common scold, a drunkard and disturber of her neighbours, and one that is a common curser, swearer and blasphemer of God's name to
the disquiet of His Majesty's subjects and disturber of His Highness's peace within the same City." (From accusations against Mary Jones, Hereford archives 1625)
Hereford had a turbulent history during the Civil War between Charles 1 and Parliment (1642-6). Though predominantly Royalist in sympathy, in 1642-3 it was twice occupied by Parliamentarian Armies. Re-occupied for the King, during the 'great siege' of 31 July - 2 September 1645 it triumphantly repelled a large Scots force during which time Jane Merricke, was wounded by cannonball splinters, eventually receiving £1 in compensation. However, on 17 December 1645 Hereford finally fell to a Parliamentarian suprise attack. (Details gleaned from information in the Black and White Museum) Both Charlotte and I found the museum fascinating and well worth visiting if you're ever in Hereford
From there we went off to have a look at some more old buildings in the centre of Hereford amongst all the modern shops. And we did of course find a Costa Coffee Café for a caffeine fix and a bite to eat. For those who may not know, Charlotte is rather partial to Costa coffee!
Stumbling into an old church we discovered that, as well as
some beautiful stained glass windows it also had a sale of art works painted by local artists. It was there I bought a small watercolour of parts of old Hereford. Mind you I can't imagine where I shall be able to put in once I get home!
We then went into Hereford Town Hall where Charlotte had booked for us to see some of the historical items held in the basement and where the very helpful and knowledgeable Roger Stokes - the Mayor's Officer and City Marshall - took us around. Roger took us into the Lord Mayor's Rooms where a photograph of the recently elected Mayor, Sharon Michael, hung on the wall. There were many other interesting items in there including a ceremonial sword and four silver mace made in 1680. Then into the basement where there was more silver artefacts and many historical documents the oldest dating from 9 October 1189 when Richard 1 - known as Richard the Lionheart - signed Hereford's First Charter. We felt we were so privileged to be able to view them although anyone can do so as long as they make an appointment at the Town Hall.
The last visit
before heading home was to go to Hereford Cathedral to have a look at the Mappa Mundi, an ancient map which was constructed on a single sheet of vellum (calf skin) and made around the year 1300. It shows the history, geography and destiny of humanity as it was understood in Christain Europe in the late 13th and early 14th centuries.
With all that Hereford has to offer, including the fact that Nell Gwyn - one of England's first actresses and a long time mistress of King Charles 11 who bore him two sons - was reported to have been born there, the city does not have a Tourist Bureau which I found rather odd.
Once we arrived back home Emily and John were hard at it in the kitchen in readiness for 'cooking up a storm' as Andy's mum Eileen - known as Evy - was joining us for dinner. It was great to meet Evy and have a chat. Our delicious evening meal consisted in scallops for starters followed by a 'Surf and Turf' dish showcasing Hereford fillet steak which was beautiful. After a great night of good food, wine and wonderful company I said my
goodbyes to Andy as I wouldnt be seeing him in the morning; a short but sweet visit. Thanks Charlotte, John, Emily and Andy for the wonderful hospitality during my Hereford visit; it was greatly apprecited!
B
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Charlotte Cook
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Hereford
Very interesting read Michelle. Can't believe it was only last week. xx