Arthur's Seat

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31 May 2008

Hi Folks

This was a quite delightful day - possibly the best so far. Having finally escaped the clutches of Gloucestershire I quickly immersed myself in the delights of Herefordshire - a county I have not previously visited. For those of you who are not clear on where this is … it is between the English Midlands and the Welsh county of Powys and so geographically is transitional between the Midland plain and the Cambrian Mountains.

If I had any doubts that this was border country then they quickly disappeared on arrival in Hay-on-Wye the night before. Now I thought that Hay was in England but the street signs are in both languages - which of course makes for even larger signs cluttering up the place and spoiling the view. Do we really need all these signs ? I digress ….

Well, 6AM and a clear blue sky - now that is unusual (the sky that is). Rushed around and was soon on the road in search of an ancient monument known as Arthur’s Stone. I do not always find that which I am seeking so was really pleased to reach the high point of a hill and find AS clearly in view. This is a Neolithic tomb that had been placed in a commanding position so that it could be seen by all who lived in the area …. presumably the final resting place of a local leader. Very interesting. You will of course appreciate that the name simply represents yet another part of the Arthurian myth and has absolutely no basis in fact whatsoever.

I now drove across country towards the Welsh Border. This was a steeply undulatin route as the grain of the country runs north - south so I had to cross a series of ridges and valleys until I arrived in the Olchon Valley which parallels the Black Mountains forming the easternmost edge of the Cambrians. This is a quite beautiful area comparable with the best parts of the Lake District / Cheviots / Scottish Highlands. Steep slopes rise from narrow valley floors to rocky ridges with the uppermost slopes devoid of life other than rough pasture for sheep. A marked contrast from bustling towns such as Hay barely thirty minutes drive away these valleys are occupied by scattered farms connected by winding narrow lanes. Absolutely gorgeous scenery.

Found my way to a picnic spot in the remotest valley (surely there is an oxymoron in that …) where I parked. I then had an hour’s walk up onto the Black Cat Ridge and back down again. Stunning views from the highest crag - and not just of me (see photo !).

Explored a little further in the afternoon with the highlights being the ruins of a twelfth century Marcher castle in Longtown notable for its cylindrical keep. Apparently the lord was distantly related to Edward II who provided the craftsmen to work on the project which would explain the calibre of the work. I found several churches of interest (they really are exceptional in this area) with the most interesting being that at Garaway which had been founded by the Knights Templar and so exhibited many Saracenic features particularly in the chancel arch and in addition had
a curious bell tower that was set at an angle to the nave creating in effect a dog-leg.

A really interesting and rewarding day !

Steve

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Photos

Garway Church
Bell tower at angle to nave (RHS) with joining building (? sacristry ?)