York and Durham

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I left bright and early from Leeds, which really is a very cool city - it's very clean and modern and feels like maybe it's the yuppie capital of the North. Took a short train ride to York, my main destination for the day. This city really is the capital of Northern England and is absolutely jammed packed with history. Most people forget that this area was once the Northernmost extent of the Roman Empire, and York itself began as a garrison town. Then came the Vikings and then the Normans and finally Edward I moved his capital here in the 13th century - he actually started Parliament in the York Minster I visited today.

The York Minster really is the whole reason I came to York. It's a massive, beautiful cathedral packed with history and stunning architecture. I was lucky enough to be here on a Sunday right when the service was over. The church bells played for probably like 45 minutes, while the faithful flocked out the giant wooden doors only opened on Sunday. It was like being transported back in time. Also worthwhile in York are its equally impressive Medieval walls, which you can walk around town atop (but are still not as good as Conwy).

My final stop for the day was farther Northward, in the town of Durham. So far, this is my favorite town, right after Conwy. I'm staying in this awesome attic bedroom in a bed and breakfast, which sits right next to an old church. Durham itself is, like York, primarily known for its massive cathedral. It sits on the very top of a hill overlooking a beautiful river. In fact, I liked the cathedral here a lot more than York Minster. It's a different architectural style (York is Gothic, Durham Romanesque), and so feels heavy and dark inside. There was also the absolutely beautiful Galilee Chapel, which is the final resting place of the Venerable Bede, and, in the back, is the tomb of St. Cuthbert. Some scenes from Harry Potter were also filmed here. An added treat was that the Lindisfarne Gospels were randomly in town from London. This is probably the single most important illuminated manuscript from like 600 AD, with intricately written out words and drawings. This is back when monks literally hand copied the entire gospels. It's just a very famous book - and is so old it can only be opened to one page every couple of years.

Tomorrow it's a day trip to see the actual farthest extent of the Roman Empire in England - Hadrian's Wall.

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Photos

Ruined Monastery of St. Mary's
Henry VIII destroyed St. Mary's when he dissolved all monasteries in order to divorce his first wife (the Pope wouldn't let him).

Facade of York Minster
Sun was bright and not the best picture, but what the hell.

Side View of York Minster
Really helps you appreciate the sheer size of the place.

Minster from Medieval Wall
A beautiful walk with great pictures of the Minster in the distance.

Surviving Medieval Gate
The slits are of course where arrows were fired from, and the portcullis still actually works.

Central Tower in Minster
Where nave meets transepts, and shockingly high up. Dizzying underneath it.

Minster Stained Glass
The Christ Heart Window - the stone tracing at top looks like a heart.

Durham View
That's the Cathedral way in back on the hill.

Another View
See how this is different from York? Less windows and a more solid feel.