County Durham 2 - Barnard Castle - the rest of the town, an italian style meal and a night at the motel

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After being fed and watered and had our fill of painting, porcelain and museum items we set off for the market town itself . Set in Teesdale the town is named after its castle . The countryside is very pretty in this part of the world with green fields hemmed in by stone walling. The hedgerows were full of pretty tea size plates of white Hogweed and the rambling white briar roses. The fields full of rusty coloured sheep and golden with the ripening corn. Gardens are colourful as the summer bedding comes into its own and long borders are full with vibrantly coloured perenials

Our first job find a carpark . Easier said than done. We were so glad that we were not in Suzy . At least parking a car should be easier or so we thought. The streets were wide and lined with a good variety of independent shops. It seemed bustling with folks parking up in the middle of the street to do their shopping. Apart from the locals there seemed a rich number of visitors. There were plenty of cafes, pubs and restuarants for a meal. We were just in search of a pay and display which sadly we did not find . However not to be outdone we found a quiet residential area just on the banks of the River Tees. There were cars parked there, no double or single yellow lines and plenty of room to park out . All within walking distance of the town and the castle.

We followed the path alongside a pitch and putt mini golf area which sadly seemed shut up and a busy playground full of grandparents and their grandchildren. It seemed a lovely place to live . Comfortable in its own skin with pretty stone houses mingling with the newer bungalows. We rather liked Barnard Castle.. Opening out at the end of the path is a grassy area on on stands Bernard's Castle, which gave birth to the town of Barnard Castle and provided its name. It stands in ruins but cuts a fine scene at the end of the green. Many children were playing on the grassy banks.

We entered the castle and handed over our CADW cards which of course meant free entry. The young lady welcomed us and asked us if we had been before . As we had not she directed us to the toilets, to her little shop and explained that we would get fabulous views over the river when we got into the castle itself. The castle walls remain and inside is a wonderful area of grass which once must have bustled with life. Stables, horses, dogs , pigs and workers all housed inside this vast area. The ruined towers still stand high on the crags above the swiftly flowing Tees . We wandered from empty room to room imaging what life must have been like living in the castle in its heyday.

Barnard Castle is a ruined medieval castle situated in the town of the same name in County Durham. It is a Scheduled Ancient Monument, and was designated as a Grade I listed building in 1950. The remains of the medieval chapel of St Margaret in the outer ward are listed as Grade II. It is a lovely castle sprawling around the green in a a highly defended site . It was built on the site of an earlier defended position from around 1095 to 1125 by Guy de Balliol. Between 1125 and 1185 his nephew Bernard de Balliol and his son Bernard II extended the building.

In 1216 the castle was besieged by Alexander II, King of Scotland. It was still held by the Balliol family although its ownership was disputed by the Bishops of Durham. When John Balliol was deposed as King of Scotland in 1296 the castle was passed to the Bishop of Durham. Around 1300 Edward I granted it to the Earl of Warwick. In the 15th century the castle passed by marriage to the Neville family. In 1477 during the Wars of the Roses Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later Richard III) took possession of the castle, which became one of his favourite residences. You can quite easily understand why he would love the castle.

Over the next two centuries the Nevilles enlarged and improved the estate and created a substantial and impressive castle. However when Charles Neville, 6th Earl of Westmorland was attainted for his leading role in the Rising of the North the Neville estates were sequestered. In 1626 the Crown sold the castle and also the Neville property at Raby Castle to Sir Henry Vane.

Vane decided to make Raby his principal residence and Barnard Castle was abandoned and its contents and much of its masonry was removed for the maintenance and improvement of Raby and of course was used in the building of many of the town buildings. The best part for me was the 12th century ruins of the cylindrical tower and the 14th-century Great Hall and Great Chamber. Incredibly atmospheric. There are no gardens to speak and we had to head out into the town which is at one end punctuated by the mellow stone Butter Cross . A lovely building used by the ladies of the town as a place to meet and sell their butter.

Our final stop was to a pub where we sat in a corner drinking J2O and orange and lemonade discussing how pubs have changed over the years. Spit and sawdust gone by the mid to late 60's. Places where you could order food chicken or scampi and chips in the 1970's. In the 1980's and 1990's the pubs began to become chinzy with patterned wall papers and heavily patterned carpets. Now they are utilitarian grey walled with sage green woodwork and radiators . It was lovely to sit quietly in a corner and think about what to do next . Our next stop another castle. Richmond different to Barnards Castle . A meal booked for tonight at an Italian.

AS we paid our bill I smiled. Throughout the day I had been thinking about the thought for the day. I was determined to radiate joy to everyone I met. I smiled at the lady in the shop at the castle and I smiled at the pub staff. Parmahansa Yoganangda said that and suggested that we be mental sunshine to all who cross our path. The sun is shining and I have a big grin on my face as we walk back to the car and drive down some pretty lanes with the rusty sheep sitting in the fields munching the golden corn. The pretty villages with their stone cottages were a real treat and it felt good to be out and about .

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Ancient and plenty of character
Looks like a lovely location.