Derbyshire 24- Bolsover AKA Bowser/the beast of Bowser/a fairy tale castle overlooking the M1

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Today is All Hallows Eve. Suzy is parked up still on the drive. We are still in the United Kingdom counting the time down to our next big adventure. We hope to get away for a few days this side of Christmas and the plan is to spend the darker nights inside now working out a plan of action for next years holidays. Dates are booked. I have managed to get 28 days off work in both April/May and in September. I had not expected to so it was a much needed boost on these dark Autumn days to realise that next years holidays are no longer just dreams in the back of our imaginations.

But what to do today? The days are cold. The rain has been falling incessently over the last few days. The wind has whipped all the leaves from the trees. Autumn feels as if it is on the way out and Winter is just around the corner. Just two days to Glenns birthday and just seven weeks to Christmas. There does not seem much left of 2015 but still there is time to get out and about and see something locally. As the driver pointed out there is a lot to see within 30 miles of our home. The navigator (me and Sion of course) dampened the occasion by pointing out that after half term which is this week historic houses are put to bed for the Winter. Not opening again until February 2016. Looking at all the people out it is hard to work out why English Heritage and the National Trust have to close their doors for the best part of 14 weeks over the colder months. I can imagine they struggle to keep staff to keep them open, cleaning has to be done, conservation work is undertaken and it is damn cold but surely close for four weeks and stagger the places closed so that at least we have a few places to visit over the colder months.

Our choices were limited. Kedleston near Derby was Plan A but firstly the rain spoilt that idea . Secondly on Friday it closed for the season. End of that idea. So what is open. How about the fairy tale castle of Bolsover just a few miles up the road. We have been before. We were like naughty children last time we visited as we used a friends English Heritage card to get in for nothing. This time we used our own CADW cards. The drive took us over the M1and up the hill to Bolsover. A village that in the past must have been very rural and pretty. However, industry came to Bolsover. Black diamonds were found underground and the Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire coalfield grew with pits proliferating in the area. Following the opening of the pits hundreds of folks flocked in looking for the well paid but dirty and dangerous job as an underground worker in the colliery. Council houses sprouted up and in a way blighted the village as it grew and grew. The castle stands proud on the hill. You spot it from miles away and as you climb up the hill in the car the castle keeps delighting. It is a lovely castle and one of the prettiest I can say we have ever seen. Is there such a thing as a perfect castle? Yes there is and Bolsover is one of those. It invites you from a distance as you see the main keep which would be perfect for a damsel in distress to scream from the towers and the riding stable block is pretty impressive.

Arriving in Bolsover known locally as Bowser we parked up on the local car park and walked to the castle. A new shop and reception block had been built since the last time we had been around the castle. It was full of parents and grandparents with children in tow all heading for the ghouls and ghosts play areas around the castle. There was even a small cafe. Something for everyone. We lost all the kids as they entered the play rooms never to be seen again. I wonder if the ghosts and ghouls got them. We walked across the lawns through the impressive gates which lead into an inner yard around which were the romantic ruins of the castle.

The castle originally was built on the site of a medieval fortress built by the Perevel family in the early 12th century. Very little is known of its origins. The new castle became Crown property in 1155 when William Perevel III fled into exile. Shortly afterward, the Ferrers family – who were Earls of Derby laid claim to the castle . When a group of barons led by King Henry II’s sons revolted against the king’s rule, Henry spent £116 on Bolsover Castle to increase the garrison to accommodate as many as 20 knights. Although the revolt failed the brothers asked their father for forgivenes and in 1189 Henry agreed to name Richard his heir. Two days later Henry II died in Chinon. Funny how when you read up on a history you come up with places you have already visited - Chinon is one of those places we have visited on one of our French visits. Good old Richard the Lionheart became King of England. Bolsover Castle remained in possession of the crown even after John ascended to the throne in 1199 following his brothers death. Never-the-less William de Ferrers continued to maintain the claim of the Earls of Derby over Bolsover Castle and even paid William 2000 marks for the lordship of the Peak. Way back in 1216 John finally gave the property to the Ferrers to secure their support against the country-wide rebellion. However the castellan, Brian de Lislem, refused to hand it over so John gave the Ferrers permission to take the property by force. After a long siege in 1217 Bolsover Castle was finally taken by the Ferrers after which it was neglected and eventually fell into ruin for more than 3 centuries.

In 1553 the manor and castle were purchased by Sir George Talbot, keeper to the exiled Mary Queen of Scots. Came across him at South Wingfield Manor this year when we visited . Talbot later became the 6th Earl of Shrewsbury and married ‘Bess of Hardwick’ who owned the vast Chatsworth estates. A castle that you can see as you stand in the grounds of Bolsover. In 1608 Talbot leased Bolsover Castle to Sir Charles Cavendish and later sold it to him. Cavendish employed architect Robert Smythson to help rebuild the Castle. It is this castle that you see today and wander around.

Upon Cavendish’s death in 1617, his son William who was considered a playboy, courtier, and poet inherited the property and set about finishing his father’s work. The incredible result included tiers of luxurious staterooms filled with exquisitely carved fireplaces and richly-colored murals which can still be seen today including the magnificent ‘Caesar paintings’ commissioned by Cavendish that depict the Roman emperors and empresses. I swear these rooms were not open last time we came to see the castle. There seemed much more to see this time.

The tower portion of Bolsover Castle known as the ‘Little Castle’, was completed c1621 whilst the Terrace Range and the Riding School were added later. We didnt go in the Riding school as we had seen it before but instead walked through the inner courtyard to the walled garden. Perhaps we should have gone in as it is considered to be the finest example of an indoor riding school in the United Kingdom.

Inside the Terrace Range which overlooks the Vale of Scarsdale are apartments and kitchens and what was a long gallery . At the onset of the Civil War Sir William Cavendish took command of the Royalist troops. He was defeated and was forced to flee into exile. At this point Bolsover surrounded to the Parliamentarians. After this the castle fell into disrepair but was returned to its former glory by Sir William Cavendish. Sadly though over the years the castle fell into disrepair as the lead was stripped from the roof. Empty castle meant more decay and it remained empty until 1834 when it was let to the Curate of Bolsover and passed through the female heirs into the Bentinck family where it ultimately became one of the seats of the Dukes of Portland. Still uninhabited it was eventually given over to English Heritage. What a lovely castle it is too.

The gardens although not full of flowers were still colourful with the embers of the last blooms just going over. Inside the castle we were treated to a magnificent main entrance complete with flight of steps and inside room after room full of panelled walls, painted decorations and even a lantern at the top of the building. As the staircase wound upward we saw small anti rooms just off the landings , large rooms suitable for lavish entertaining and rooms where naughty goings on went on.

Outside much work had been undertaken to rebuild the walkways around the gardens and whilst they still looked new they were a welcome addition.

So what about the beast you ask ? The local MP Dennis Skinner has been nicknamed the Beast of Bolsover due to his aggressive and anti monarchy quips in the houses of parliament. A popular local man he has served the community for many years and he is well loved. Watch any debate in parliament and Dennis is there. He never misses a session. Bolsover has two gems - one the castle and the second the guy they call the Beast of Bolsover.

OUr visit ended and we both commented that there are so many lovely things in this area and this was one of them. A lovely day was had by the driver, the passenger and navigator and the Sheep who failed to find a latrine or two for his friend Woolly Mammoth.

So what next? Well we picked up my thought for the day and it was a bit long but nevertheless made us think. "When you are inspired by some great purpose , some extradordinary project , all your thoughts break their bonds". We are inspired now to sort out next years holidays- another two extraordinary projects which need some sorting out. So the first thing we did was order three books. Sweden - never been there before. Denmark - closest been is to eat Danish bacon and watch a programme on the TV about the Schleswig Holstein Wars and finally Poland. So plans underway.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Gardens
Nice photo

[JenGog]

gardens
Love them particularly when there are plenty of flowers to see. Hope you are settled in your new home