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Published: August 21st 2022
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Striding uphill to Hartland Quay.
Thanks to Julia for sending me the photo. After a surprisingly good night's near Boscastle Harbour I woke up to a colourful sunrise introducing another day of unbroken sunshine. It was a short easy walk along the cliffs to Tinatgel where I treated myself to a night at the Headland Campsite. Most campsites seem to offer a reasonable rate for walkers, but not here. After two long days and the beginnings of a blister I really wanted a short day, so I paid up. It was a lovely campsite, with very friendly staff, just expensive for a solo walker.
Tintagel was bigger than I had expected and was as thronged with holiday makers as I had expected on such a fine day. After exploring the town, I enjoyed a couple of pints of Sea Fury in the Tintagel Arms hotel. Later in early evening I went to exploreTintagel Island. It was closed for the day so I explored the cliffs, beach and cave under the island. It's easy to see why a place like this becomes associated with legends and stories.
My lazy day worked a treat. My feet recovered well and the blister came to nothing. I set off early to get a few miles covered
avoiding the hottest part of the day. A buzzard soared by as I approached the 11
th Century church of St Materiana.
Just past the YHA Hostel I met a lady from Exeter, we had a great walk and chat past some old quarries as far as Trebarwith Strand where she stopped to go for a swim. I continued on and at Jacket point the walking got a little more strenuous with a series of short, but steep climbs nd descents. A pair of peregrines jetted past me, and a jet streaked along five miles above us.
After lunch in Port Isaac during which I managed to avoid gull attacks, I took refuge in The Golden Lion to escape the heat. It was a lovely little pub. There was space on the gun deck outside, but I choose a quiet corner inside.
I saw my first chough of the trip at Kellan Head as I was starting to look for a camping spot. The musical kyaw anounced its arrival. After a dramatic tumble it landed on the path a little behind me. For five minutes I watched it parade up and down, its red bill flashing in and
out of the fading sunlight. A couple hundred metres further on I found a little hollow on the headland. Dozens of rabbits hopped into the vegetation as I approached. A gannet dived into the calm sea searching for its fish supper.
I pushed in the last peg as the sun touched horizon. After arranging my gear for the night I sat outside and sipping a wee dram of Quiet Man Whiskey I looked back along the coastline retracing in my mind the route I had just walked.
Port Quin was only a mile or so further on. I set off early and found a slow worm warming on the path on the descent into Port Quin. I had my breakfast by the slipway watching a couple of pairs of kayakers and a snorkeller set off on their adventure for the day. Doyden Castle overlooked the next climb. A sign told me it appeared in episode 1 of Doc Martin. A chough perched on the cliff below it.
Polzeath Beach was crammed with people and todays refuge for me was a lovely shady terrace at The Waterfront just behind it. Refreshed, I enjoyed the easy walk around the
low headland to The Rock where I caught the ferry to Padstow.
I wasn't intending to go much further so I spent a couple of hours exploring the narrow streets and enjoyed a portion of chips in a shelter near the harbour. Beyond the harbour the coast path continues uphill past a war memorial, alongside the beach and on up Stepper Point. A little past the stone tower that was a day marker I found another perfect hollow just off the path. I was surprised to find a collection of painted stones to My CODA Love. I have no idea what that meant, but coincidently ini Derry CODA is the acronym for City of Derry Airport. Once again I erected my tent by the light of the firery descent of sun. After another long day, for me anyway, of sixteen miles I had my little nightcap.
A dog snuffling round the tent at 6am woke me up. I got up a bit later and had water and wraps for breakfast as I daren't light stoove. After another fine sunny day my last night on the path I spent at Park Head, leaving a short day for the final
walk into Newquay. I was treated to yet another firework sunset for an hour before I zipped myself into the sleeping bag.
The last day was a gentle walk into Newquay past sea stacks along the shore, the Boardmaster Festival site and the monster campsite neighbouring it. For the last few days the temperatures have been getting progressively hotter. It was already uncomfortably hot by 9am, so I was glad that today was my last day of walking for now. I had been blessed with excellent weather this past week, but now it was getting a little too hot for me. I was happy to spend a day in Newquay before starting the train journey home on Friday.
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