Cambridgeshire 6 - what a surprise Peterborough had for us

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We had one more visit to make and that was going to be Peterborough. To get there our first move was from the site at Cambridge and to drive the hour to Peterborough to our new stop for the night at the Nene Valley Park in a Caravan Club site.

It was Saturday the morning was dank and cold and there was a slight frost covering everything from the trees to the grass. Everywhere looked white and glistening in the early morning light. We left the site before most people had risen and left our barrier key in the letter box . The drive was pretty awful and we had not expected much traffic on the road so it was rather a surprise to be stuck in a traffic jam. For mile after mile we crawled until eventually we reached the motorway and were able to get up a head of steam.

Arriving in Peterborough we drove round and round until we reached the campsite . There are so many places called Orton something or other in this part of the world that it felt as if we were on a roundabout going round and round and not getting anywhere . Orton Centre ............Orton Waters or was it Waters Orton, the list went on and on. The campsite was as always clean and tidy with excellent staff, clean toilets and excellent facilities . It lies next door to the Nene Valley Railway and in the park with its 60km of walks . We had planned to visit Peterborough tomorrow riding on the train which would cost us half price as we were members of the Caravan Club. However all good plans ......................



We decided to take the bull by the horns and visit Peterborough that afternoon . Armed with a plan of the area we knew the bus was just 10 minutes away. The walk took us past the railway line which we crossed over , we followed the signs for Water Orton and Orton Centre and reached the main road . We could see the bus stop and knew the bus stopped every 10 mins and better still it would be free again. It did indeed arrive on time and within half an hour we were in Peterborough.

Oh boy was it cold as we walked up the main street , There were stalls on the streets selling their wares and a funfair and we even found a huge indoor market. We don't like shopping centres but this one was impressive and we wondered around John Lewis, the 3 shop buying a new internet sim and many other shops.

Peterborough turned out a bit of a surprise - we rounded a corner and saw the Guildhall. A building dating from 1671 and built in the reign of Charles II. Known as the Butter Cross or Market Cross it stands opposite the Norman archway to the cathedral. It is a two storied pretty building with gabled dormers with leaded lights. Open arches underneath , mullioned windows and pretty pilasters. A huge and impressive Royal coat of arms adorns the building ,. Inn the Coat of Arms on the front of the building under the clock are the initials C.R. they stand for Charles Reginus so it is just possible that this coat was made for Charles I but as the Guild Hall was built in 1671 and Charles II had been restored to the throne in 1660 it is almost certain that they refer to Charles II. It made a lovely thing to see in the middle of the square . We had not expected it and it shocked us how beautiful it was.

From here we walked over to the cathedral which is properly called the Cathedral church of St Peter, St Paul and St Andrew and is the seat of the Bishop of Peterborough. It is in the Early English Gothic style - a style we love and cannot get enough of. Its front had three enormous arches and the towers rise up impressively towards the sky. When you have been to so many cathedrals you start to compare each one and we pondered on whether Ely was more impressive or was Peterborough the most highly decorated. Hard to tell as each had its own merits.

We entered and were surprised that we did not have to pay to go in . We were greeted and welcomed and told that we could wander round at will . If we wanted to take photos we had to pay £3 which was money well spent. Sadly some people couldnt be bothered to pay and took photos without paying a penny towards the upkeep of the building . We lit a candle as always to remember family that have gone from our lives.

In the background the choir were singing, practicising for Evensong and their voices sound delicious. The music and words soared roofwards and actually made the visit quite surreal. We are not religious but the music made the atmosphere special and we stood for a while just listening to the choir. It made the visit special .

We read that the original church was known as the Medeshamstede and was founded in the reign of King Peada of the Middle Angles around 655AD. The Hedda stone is the oldest object in the church and this lies behind the altar. It was carved some time before the monastery on the site slipped into decline In the mid 10th century monastic revival a Benedictine Abbey was created and endowed in 966, principally by Athewold (there you go there is the king with the name begining with A - see previous blog) The nave was long and contained the tomb of Katharine of Aragon first wife of Henry VIII. He divorced her and caused a rift from Rome when he formed the new church free from Rome with him as the head of the church . She lived in exile and once she died was buried in Peterborough. The grave was simple with the inscription Katherine Queen of England . Pomegranites were placed on the tomb . These were her emblems . It was a poignant sad place. Opposite was a empty tomb which once housed Mary Queen of Scots . Her body had been since taken to Westminster Abbey and reburied in pomp and circumstance .

We just stood for a while listening to the music that was being played on the organ and those choristers voices raising up to heaven.

As we came out we felt the need for coffee and cake to ground us again. We found a small cafe a french one with excellent coffee and croissants covered in cream anglaise and strawberries and tartes aux fruites. It was a wonderful end to a day sitting in the warmth munching our way through delicious cakes - we could have been in France .

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Photos

Peterborough
The norman porch of the cathedral