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Published: February 6th 2013
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January started quietly with our scenic camp spot overlooking the Rio Guadiana barely disturbed but for some fireworks in the distance around midnight. Our first town for 2013 was the pretty whitewashed (aren’t they all) Alcoutin which was fairly quiet on New Years Day which may be attributed to the signs for the previous night’s party all over town. As has been our habit this winter we spent the next couple of days pootling through the river region which is cork oak and olives dotted with a few flocks of sheep and goats. We wild camped in the car park of an ancient menhir (large chunk of carved stone) and by the banks of the river again at Pomerau for our last night in Portugal. On 3 January we crossed the border back into Spain and travelled a very new and little used road that did not even show on our map. We finished the day at Camping Madronal in the Sierra de Aracena near Fuenteheridos. It was a scruffy site amongst a chestnut forest but had a washing machine and it was near where we wanted to hike. Which we did the next day. We cycled a few (thigh busting)
kilometres to the start of a track and had a lovely 12km hike to the village of Aljacar and back – not even stopping for a beer in the middle (new years resolution is to have more AFD’s – we’ll see how long this lasts, haha!)
Our next town was Aracena which has grand buildings and a castle ruin on the hill with terrific views. It was also busy with everyone walking around carrying large cake boxes tied with ribbon. We had to investigate and found out this was the last weekend to buy the traditional Spanish Xmas cake which is a large circular yeast bun filled with cream or custard and topped with large pieces of glace fruit. They call it Bollo de Rei and you understand when you are the one who bites into the portion containing a ceramic, painted King!
From the Sierra de Aracena to the Sierra Moreno we enjoyed wending our way along scenic roads with occasional stops to explore whitewashed towns which are generally a little bigger and busier here than in Portugal. We wild camped above the Zufre reservoir one night then on a hill behind an old Ermita another night.
By Monday 7 January we arrived at Camping Albolafia just East of Cordoba where we stayed for 3 days and caught the bus into Cordoba on 2 occasions. This is a pleasant town with the beautiful Mesquita as the highlight. It also has one of the best tapas bars in Spain. It was also an expensive couple of days as we bought a new camera – a Nikon P510 with 42X optical zoom and cool features like a “smile timer” which waits until you smile then takes the photo!
On Friday we moved on to the Park Natural Sierra de Andujar where we had a pleasant hike picking up 3 geocaches and spotting a large herd of Red Deer. We camped the night at the Mirada Hotel camping below the massive Santuario Virgin de la Cabeza which has great views and some good walking trails. However the camping left a lot to be desired and at 20 euro was one of our most expensive stops by far. The next day we ventured further East to explore the towns of Ubeda and Baeza which both have interesting old centres and we wild camped in the car park of the now
derelict bullring in Baeza. It was not a good move as the locals used the car park as a short cut and the wind kept making something unidentified bang loudly every few minutes!
Sunday morning dawned foggy so we turned our noses South and headed to the Sierra Nevada aiming to have a day in Granada to do some shopping. We last visited here in 2003 and did all the big sites ie Alhambra and Cathedral, so it was good to just wander the streets, stop for a coffee, find an interesting bar for tapas (it does a delicious scrambled egg and black pudding dish) and soak up the town when it is less touristed. We were hoping to see more snow on the Sierra Nevada by this time however from our view point across the valley we could not get excited about what we saw so skiing is off the agenda until we head back to France. We did get a little snow on us during the night but by the middle of the next day it was melted away and we drove around to the Southern side of the Sierra to a nice little spot at Orgiva.
However, by the time we checked in at the camping the wind was blowing a gale and continued to do so for the next 3 days. It was so strong that a British couple in a caravan near us had to sit tight as there was no way you could tow a caravan in this wind. During the 3rd night a huge old olive tree just over the fence split in two with the wind - I wonder where the Little Owls will nest now.
Our next move was to the coast and the familiar territory around Cabo de Gata. We stayed a couple of nights at the caravan park where once again the wind blew strong enough to tear the plastic of the acres of greenhouses causing much flapping, clanging, banging etc which was good in the sense that it drowned out the noise of the ever present barking dogs! We enjoyed a further few days around this area which has lots of good walking and some very pleasant little beaches to stop overnight on (along with the usual motley assortment of German, Dutch & French vans). There are also quite a lot of Geocaches to be found
along these walks which adds to the interest.
By Thursday 24 January we found ourselves a bit inland again for 3 nights at the friendly Camping Sierra Espuna in El Berro. The helpful owner provided walking routes and directions so we spent a couple of pleasant days exploring this hilly area. We are starting to feel a bit fitter again after nearly a week of regular hiking.
The next week was spent in the company of my Uncle Bernard who flew down to stay with his friend George at his villa in Benijofar near Alacante. We enjoyed several pleasant, sunny days lazing around the pool (too cold for swimming unfortunately), socialising with George’s lovely daughter Julie and her husband Peter, and eating hearty meals of Fish & Chips, Roast Beef & Yorkshire Pudding, and Lamb Shanks – a bit different to our usual quick and easy motorhome meals. We had a hilarious evening of 10 pin bowling where Brian showed he still has some style when it comes to swinging the bowling arm and George has some style when it comes to tantrums when his ball goes the wrong way. This part of Spain is heavily colonised by
Brits and after a while you forget you are in Spain because everyone talks to you in English as many shops and restaurants are run and staffed with Brits.
So, that is all the news for now. We are both well and have a bit of a "winter tan" ie hands, faces and from the knees down. Off to do some more lovely walks in the Sierra de Bernia....
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