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Published: April 7th 2008
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Nazarenos
Follow the thrones carrying the cross or a lantern Ola Bo & Dud
Semana Santa - my Spanglish is coming along nicely!!
We decided that we would have a quiet Easter - not too much excitement and certainly no chocolate, the eating and drinking are far outweighing the exercise at the moment. The Spanish holiday starts Thursday so the camp site was filling up for most of the day. Good Friday and the place was buzzing so we decided to have an outing - we got 3 kilometres! Fortuna is our nearest town, and as we approached we could see the road ahead through town was closed - 2 Firemen indicated that we should take a right turn and Emily (our Sat Nav) lost the plot. We parked to get our bearings and could hear loud drumming - so off to investigate!!
I’ve heard of the Easter Pasos (procession), but never thought that we would see one in such a small town. The size of the town did not reflect the extent of the parade. The main street was alive with colour, sound, ensigns, banners and people dressed in tunics and hoods - all moving to the slow rhythmic beating of drums.
The huge floats, representing biblical
Boys Brigade
Well the Spanish equivalent - all drums & trumpets scenes from the crucifixion are the main part of the parade. Each float is cared for by a religious organisation, the Cofrades which were formed as far back as the 16th Century. Members of the Brotherhoods take part in the procession - the Costaleros carry the float shoulder high; many showing penitence by carrying the float in bare feet. The job of the head of each group is to ensure that the float is carried with great seriousness and tradition. He is also in charge of the bell which is sited somewhere to the front of the structure. He rings this to indicate, ‘pick up’ - the supports are removed, the men take the weight and the float is lifted and placed on shoulders, ‘move’- the bearers progress in a swaying motion for several metres, ‘put down & rest’ - the supports are put back into position and take the weight of the float.
Following the float, in most resplendent robes and carrying a golden rod, comes the President. He heads up the procession of Nazarenos, (the followers), dressed in tunics, hoods and masks and carrying a cross or a lantern. The Capirote is the cone shaped headdress and
Nazarenos
Come in various assorted colours depending on which Brotherhood they come from. the Capuz is the part that covers the face. I’ve been trying to find out why we can only see the eyes of the Capirote and the only reason that I can come up with is a tradition dating back to the (oh, no, it’s the Spanish) Inquisition (sorry, just a Python pun there). The conical cardboard hat was worn by someone who was going to be executed. There was a great deal of fumbling going on under each tunic every time the Costaleros rested and it transpired that worn underneath is a cloth bag and this is filled with sweeties. I hope they have good dental care for the children in Spain because this is the second time that hard boiled sweeties and lollipops have been handed out in great number. Once again, children rush forward with their carrier bags to get as many goodies as possible. Fortunately, unlike the 3 Kings procession, the sweets are not thrown into the crowd. I’m getting rather a taste for the watermelon variety.
And finally, bringing up the rear come the musicians; each float has its own ‘band’. A couple were traditional boy’s brigade type bands, one was a brass band,
'Chief' Nazareno
Carries a Golden Rod as befits his status. and some were just drums. I think the ones with drums had been especially selected for their stamina!
I hope the attached photographs give you some idea of proceedings. Unfortunately, what we cannot pass on is the overall experience - so imagine the sites and sounds ............ everything happens very s l o w l y, and as one group (float, followers & band) gets to the top of the road, it turns round and comes back down the other side all this while other groups are still on their way up; the rest periods of the floats are not co-ordinated - thus you have what I can only describe as organised chaos. Each band competes to be heard above the others and they all play full volume. The Costaleros in their rest period drink water or cans of pop or have a fag, when carrying resumes cans and bottles etc. are strategically balanced around the base of the float. The Nazarenos take the opportunity to break away from the procession to kiss and greet family and friends, eat the sweeties that are not being thrown to the crowd or have a quick sandwich.
The whole scenario takes
hours and while we just watch proceedings open mouthed and get yet another photo opportunity (some were actually posing for us) the whole town just gets on with it. This must have happened every Good Friday for as long as anyone can remember and of course it’s about the Catholic Church and its traditions but what came over was the great sense of belonging and taking part. In some cases the whole family were participating and those who weren’t were watching. Groups of young people called out to their friends or family - there was nothing spiteful or cruel in their actions. The older members of the community brought their chairs to the roadside and chattered their way through proceedings. It’s all very humbling to watch and observe. How lucky are we to have had the opportunity.
love & hugs & kisses
H&H x
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