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Published: September 27th 2017
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Today we picked up new Camino friends, a Spanish couple named Eduardo and Silvia. They stayed in the municipal albergue with us last night and we'd talked some. They started their Camino just a few days ago. Silvia was already having problems with hip, probably from wearing her backpack too low, so she sent her pack ahead, to Alto de Poio, where we too intended to stop for the day. We left the albergue around 7:30 as usual. We passed through the still asleep town of Ruitelan, only 2 kilometers out, while it was still pretty dark, hence no photo.
Only another kilometer or so and we reached Las Herrerias del Valcarce, spotted a nice looking place called El Capricho de Josana, and stopped for breakfast. Raresh and I both had the standard tortilla, and added a tasty-looking apple pastry. From there we started the very long climb to O'Cibreiro. When we reached the quaint hill town of La Faba, we took a break at the only place there. From there, we climbed steeply again, passing out of Castilla y Leon and into Galicia, until we reached the very touristy "town" of O'Cibreiro. I say town in quotes because there
few if any houses, just quite a few restaurants and souvenir shops, etc. The views were magnificent though, and I picked up a neat thimble. We picked a place to eat lunch called Mason Anton because they had what seemed the best selection and prices. I ordered a bowl of Gallego soup and a tuna empanada. Half way through the large bowl of very tasty soup, I realized I wasn't going to have room left for the empanada. I asked the waiter if I could cancel the empanada and he said sure, especially after I complimented him in the soup. I did share Raresh's cheesecake though.
After a filling lunch, we continued down the Camino, passing through the small town of Linares where we took a short bathroom break, then climbing to the Alto do San Toque (one if the highest points on the Camino). I should mention that almost all the time, you are not supposed to use the restroom in a bar or cafe unless you are a customer, so sometimes we stop just to use the restroom, but take a break to drink a coffee.
We passed through Hospital, thinking we'd finished most of our
climbing, but when we got near our intended stop for the day, Alto de Poio, we realized it was waaaaay up with a very steep path. Oh well, it always seems to be that way. Unfortunately, after making the climb, thinking we were done for the day, we checked out the only albergue in town and found bedbugs! So, we had to continue on to the next town of Fonfria, fortunately only 3 kilometers further.
The albergue in Fonfria, one if only 2 or 3 (and no supermarket), called Albergue A Reboleira, was clean, modern, and free of bedbugs. We checked in, went through our usual routine, and signed up for a communal dinner. We seldom spend the 10 euros or so for the pilgrim's dinner, but there was really no other places. Since I'd had a big lunch, I opted to pay a little less for only one course, plus dessert and drinks. My choices were Gallego soup or beef with veggies and rice, so, since I'd had the same soup for lunch, I ordered the beef dish. When everyone else was having the soup, they wanted me to eat some too, including the waitress, but I explained
that I hadn't paid for it, which got some strange looks, so I sort had to apologize and tell them may be I was too honest. The food was delicious, and I had a smidgen of wine so I wouldn't get weird looks again.
Tomorrow, although we went 3 kilometers further than intended, we will probably still only shoot for Samos, now only 19 kilometers away, rather than trying for Sarria at 33. Besides, Sarria is too busy anyways.
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