Spain 9 - why do the Brits go to Caceres?

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Cacares is beloved of the Brits who use it as a staging post to somewhere else whether that is overwintering in the Algarve or overwintering in the Costas. We had read much about it in Motorhome forums and thought that we would give it a go. It was time to switch the clock back to European Team as we re-entered Spain from Portugal.

Our site for the night was to be Camping Caceres which is an affiliated site to our own Caravan Club which meant it would be full of Brits and would conform to British standards. This meant decent sized pitches and lots of facilities and it was an ACSI site so cost 16 euros per night. Reception friendly and efficient, a small supermarket with very little in it, a huge swimming pool, a bar and restaurant and our own individual toilets. We were given a plot but couldn’t get Suzy in due to the overhead shading which was too low for us to get under. We moved a couple of pitches down and settled in. At the side of each plot was a small washhouse with water and hose for filling the van, a toilet, wash hand basin and shower. Luxury or what? WiFi was free but the connection was poor and slow. We were issued with maps of the town and a bus time table with instructions on where the bus stop was located . All highly efficient. At night we went for a meal. The menu was not extensive and I had been looking forward to the menu del dia which wasn’t available so instead had to order a very large entrecote steak and chips. With water and bread the bill came to 35 euros. Not the best of meals and the bar area was not very scintillating to sit in. We only went because the fridge was looking rather empty and we were on rations until we could find a decent supermarket.

The next morning we got out early and walked past the local football club grateful we had not had to suffer a match night. Across the road bridge and waited for the bus Line 5 which turned up on time and we were charged 1 euro each into town. A journey of about 20 mins again around the houses. The driver sensing we had little idea where the centre was jumped up at one point to tell us to get off as we had arrived at our destination. We walked through what seemed like a busy town centre bustling with shoppers and commuters and cars. Nothing old in sight and we wouldn’t what on earth the Brits liked about the place. Where was the old part of the town? Not easy to find from our map as we crossed roads and wandered down streets. We stopped in the end down a back street, wandered into a café, ordered our espressos and capacinnos and a palmeria cake and something filled with apple for me and took stock. We people watched. Many Spanish girls smoke and it seems normal to have a cigarette in our hand as an accessory. All the buildings were whitewashed which reflect the sun off the buildings however the poor public outside need sunglasses due to the glare off them. Arcades line the street enabling the shopper to walk and shop in relative comfort and coolness.

What a shock after the new city we entered the old quarter. First of all falling across the church of San Juan outside of which are statures of the Spanish inquisitors. And then onto the main Plaza da Santa Maria where the infidels and unbelievers were tortured and burnt during the Inquisition. We climbed the steps into the old city which looked unchanged since Medieval times with palacios some open to the public as small free museums and others used as houses or paradors. There were the towers and palaces of the Dukes of Abrantes, the Torre de Rey, the Arco de la Estrella which was built in 1726. Watchtowers on long narrow streets. Spanish guitarists playing for money on the corners of the Palacio y Torre de Carajal and outside the closed Ermita de la Paz. Alfonso IX conquered Caceres from the Saracens in 1229 and it became prosperous full of these stately homes and palaces. It was designated the first heritage city in Spain in 1949. We missed the 13^th century arab tower and garden and also some of the other important buildings but the heat of the day was increasing by the minute and we needed some relief from the sun. A drink in the shade was much needed before we headed back to the new city for our bus home. It took a while turning up but when it did the driver said Hola camping and recognised us. On the way home an old lady got off the bus very slowly and caught her arm in the door. She screamed and the driver rushed off, sorted her out and got on his way. I thought how different that would have been in compensation Britain.

That evening we met up again with the couple we met in the Hotel Regio in Salamanca. They had been into the local parque bird watching and complained how poor it had been this year. Not a sign of the griffon vultures or rapters they normally would expect to see. The area is good for walking and for catching the train to Madrid and beyond. We were joined for the night by Nobby the Hobby , a husband and wife team in a huge motorhome. They proved to be regular visitors to this site.

Our thoughts on Caceres. Don't take a place at face value. There may be more behind the scenes than you can actually see at first glance. It was a little gem again hidden in the hustle of the new city built around it. And those little toilets blocks . They must have been the best of the holiday so far. No I go further - the best of the toilets since we started motorhoming.

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Photos

Caceres
I wouldn't have liked to met up with these two during the Inquisitions

Caceres
The church and main square

Caceres
I rubbed his toes for luck

Caceres
The square from our table where we are drinking cokes in the sun

Caceres
A manhole for Woolly and Sions book of manholes around the world :)

Caceres
Our little toilet block to use when we wanted . Water and sink provided as well

Caceres
Inside our little toilet block