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Published: September 28th 2016
19 -20 September 2016 Monday and Tuesday. Burgos I ended my last blog with my arrival in Burgos...two days early because I had to take care of my sprained ankle and rest if I was going to be able to walk the final 100 km from Lugo to Santiago, and thereby earn the Compostelo. In my original planning I had intended to make the segment of my Camino between Burgos and Lugo less walking and more sightseeing as I was going to be passing through many historical cities. I did´t want to arrive at any of them so in pain or exhausted that I would´t want to leave my albergue. So this blog covers this phase of my Camino.
My first order of business on Monday was to make an appointment with a physical therapist...located conveniently on one side of the bus terminal. The appointment was made for 3 PM so I had time to take care of my other priorities. But first a bit about Burgos. Burgos is the historic capital of the Kingdom of Castille. El Cid (the story of whom is told in the movie starring Chuck Heston) was born just a few kilometers north of
the city. He is buried in the center of the cathedral...a simple slab marks his and his wife´s final resting place.
My next priority was to find a cell phone shop to see if they could help me make calls on Skype to my family. Thus far I had only been able to send emails. I found a number of cell phone stores, all run by Chinese, but no one spoke English...imagine that!
So my next priority was to go the the public library where they had computers. The Marriott AC Hotel Burgos, where I was staying for three nights, did not have a business center with a computer because everyone uses their smart phones and wifi. I am way behind the times. At the library I was able to access Travelblog and do some final editing on the blog about my first week on the Camino, which I then published. Next I wrote my blog about my second week, but they did´t have any ports where I could load pictures. Publishing the blog would have to wait for another day.
I had a quick lunch at 2 PM and then proceeded to the physical therapist, Laura.
She did a great job, though painful, of massaging every muscle, ligament, and bone in my ankle for about 25 minutes. Then she attached electrodes to the area and zapped me with electricity for another 25 minutes. She ended by wrapping KT tape around my ankle. Total cost 38 euros. I made an appointment for the following day at 2 PM to take care of my hip and lower back which had become inflamed from walking off kilter.
I headed back to my hotel to relax and later went out for a hamburger...Spanish kind...and some gelato. It was convenient to have a gelato store across from the hotel.
On Tuesday I devoted my time to seeing the sights. My first stop was the Burgos cathedral where I took the self guided tour using an audio device. Now I know more than I ever wished to know about the cathedral...and won´t bother my dear readers with the details (that´s what wikipedia is for). But I do regret that most Americans only learn the part of Spanish history related to the discoveries of America.
I had wanted to take the tourist trolley around the town, but for some reason
they were not running this day. I stopped by the library to finish off the text of the last blog, wishing some way that I could load the pictures. Then I headed to the physical therapist. George met me. I guess it was a good idea that Laura handed me off to him because he had to massage my gluteus maximus about 25 minutes just to loosen the buns of steel. Then it was another 25 minutes of electro-therapy after which I felt pretty good. I could basically walk without lurching back and forth. I wasn´t going to push myself though.
I returned to the cathedral square to watch the pilgrims arrive and look around. I felt that I was no longer a pilgrim...an outsider. I had´t talked to anyone except the librarian and Laura and George since Sunday. I was really feeling down. I returned to the hotel and later ate at their restaurant. That´s where I met a fellow American pilgrim from Idaho who was on his third year of walking sections of the Camino. He was using the hotel as a base and would walk a section and then take a taxi back to the hotel,
then take a taxi where he left off the previous day, then walk from there, then repeat. It was great to talk to someone again!
Lesson learned: Physical therapists really can help sprained ankles and other parts of the body.
21 September 2016 Wednesday. Burgos to Leon I slept in and lazed around the hotel until noon and then walked to the train station. The train departed Burgos at 12:33 PM and arrived in Leon at 2:28 PM, less than two hours for what would have taken me seven days to walk without a sprained ankle, and who knows how long with one. So my mental challenge was to absorb how quickly this went by and to decide what speed I preferred. I won't answer that.
Leon was founded in 29 BC as a Roman legion encampment for the protection of the Roman road used to transport gold. Its modern name is a derivative of its Latin name
legio. Leon was the capital of the Kingdom of Leon, but lost that title when Leon was merged with Castille. The city was sacked a few times by the Visigoths and then the Moors, was rebuilt many times,
and even hosted the first European parliament in 1188.
Upon arrival in Leon I walked from the train station, crossing the Rio Bernesca, and followed it until I arrived at the Parador San Marcos, featured in ¨The Way¨ where Tom (Martin Sheen) treated his fellow pilgrims to a night of luxury. Walking into this restored monastery was to enter sumptuous luxury. Another non-pilgrim client was checking in. When he saw me...a poor perigrino...I could see his nose go up. He said "I am a client" and I respond "I am a customer." Anyway, I checked in and was taken to my room by the bellhop...yes they still have bellhops. Walking into the room I thought I had died and gone to heaven! I dropped everything, then took a tour around the place...a monastery that has its own cloister, chapel and museum.
After being overwhelmed by it all I walked to the gothic Cathedral. On the way there I passed a pastry shop, so stopped there for a late lunch. I continued to the cathedral, the present structure in the French style being the fourth on this site. The main feature of this cathedral is its stain glass windows,
with so much light coming in that a flashy retablo would have been redundant. I believe only Milan´s cathedral has more stained glass. The amazing thing I learned was that the town of Leon with perhaps 5000 residents had built this magnificent cathedraI in the 13th century. I though building an Aquatic Center in Woodland Park, which has about the same size footprint at 25,000 sf was an accomplishment. I guess they just had more vision back then! I also learned that there would be an organ concert featuring Bach and others that evening...the first in a concert series. I had´t been to an organ concert in a cathedral since the Salzburg Music Festival in August 1968...something I mention to my family every time we see ¨The Sound of Music¨ with Maria walking down the aisle of the same cathedral to get married. I planned to return that evening at 9 PM. This meant that my dinner would have to be at 10:30 PM. I was getting used to eating dinners at Spanish times.
The concert started with a long winded speech in Spanish by some elderly person. Then they announced that no one would be allowed to leave
during the concert. I was worried I wouldn´t make my dinner reservation. Then the music began, filling the whole space. I was enthralled. The third piece was by Wagner...it sounded like John Cage...too modern. It started with a crescendo of noise...the organist put both arms on the key board and swam around. I had to plug my ears. The lady next to me told me the music score only had black bars...no individual notes. The there was a break in the noise. I was tempted to start clapping to see how many people would join me as no one could know when the piece ended. Finally the organist stopped again...30 seconds of silence until someone else had the nerve to start clapping. Then, fortunately, there was a brief intermission and the lady next to me said now was a good time to leave. I joined a few others. I met a couple American Pilgrims on the Camino members, Cindy and Arlene from Oregon, on the way out and we talked until I had to go in another direction to my parador. I had entrecôte of veal for dinner...delicious!
Lesson learned: Every pilgrim deserves to splurge once in awhile.
22 September 2016 Thursday. Leon to Astorga The next morning while waiting for my 2:35 PM train to depart for Astorga, I ate the breakfast buffet and then hung around the plaza in front of the parador. A friend back home wanted me to post a picture on Facebook using my cell phone...something I had never done before. A German couple showed me how to do it and took my picture in front of the parador, which I posted. I then went to my favorite patisserie for a late morning snack, and returned to the plaza in front of the parador. I notice two peregrinas sitting on a bench, and as one who takes every opportunity to talk to fellow pilgrims, I introduced myself. One of the ladies, Joyce, recognized me from the picture I had posted an hour earlier...she had commented on my posting, although I hadn't seen it, that she would be passing me soon. So I met a fellow APOC member and her sister Joan, from Minnesota. We wanted a group picture so I waved a random person over and asked if he would be willing to take our picture. This is how we met Juris
from Holland and his dog (I miss my dog, Bonnie), and soon, his wife Renee (I miss my wife Linda too!) who was in the parador´s museum at the time. We all exchanged information. While looking for a piece of paper for them to write their email address on, what should fall out of my very important papers pouch but the 150 euros that I lost in Belorado! So Joyce, Joan, Juris and Renee all became Camino angels that day!
Finally it was time to take the train to Astorga. Astorga started as a Celtic village and became an important Roman city as it was located at the intersection of the Via Trajana and the Via de la Plata Roman roads. Both St. James and St. Peter are said to have preached here, and this bishopric was one of the earliest in the Christian church. The Visigoths occupied the city in the 5th century and the Moors captured it in 714 after which it changed hands a number of time. St. Francis passed through on his pilgrimage in 1214. The 15th century cathedral, with its Baroque façade, is one of the three most important along the Camino, with the
other two being Burgos and Santiago de Compostela. A barred cell, which was used to imprison prostitutes, connects the cathedral to the nearby Iglesia de Santa Marta. Pilgrims would share their bread with the prisoners as an act of charity. An inscription above the barred window reads "Remember how I was judged for your judgement will be the same. Yesterday to me, today to you." Across the plaza stands the Palacio de Gaudi, designed by that famous architect as the Archbishop's residence. It currently houses the Museo de los Caminos. Astorga is also known for its chocolates.
When I was getting off the train, it had already started to move again! I met Jim and Sio from Perth, Australia who were also trying to disembark. I mentioned to them I had no idea where to stay that night. They had reservations so they invited me to share a cab with them to check out their hotel. The hotel Astur Plaza was very nice and only 58 euros per night including a buffet breakfast. They had one room left so I took it.
After dropping off my backpack I proceeded to scope out the town, walking to a chocolate
store to buy a chocolate bar (my first on the Camino) and chocolate gelato (not my first!), the Gaudi Palace (actually the bishop´s), and the cathedral. I decided to spend the next morning in each and returned to the hotel for dinner. Jim and Sio were just finishing their dinner, but invited me to join them, so we had a great time talking about why we were walking the Camino. They were just beginning theirs so had lots of questions. I think I was able to restore their confidence in their decision to walk the Camino. Then they left and I started to move towards another table for my own dinner. However, another couple asked me to join them, so more interesting discussions. I was back among pilgrims again, and was in my element! Finally, I had dinner.
Lesson learned: It is better to talk to pilgrims than to eat!
23 September 2016 Friday. Astorga to Ponferrada I spent the morning touring the cathedral and the Gaudi Palace, and the place where they imprisoned the prostitutes. None were currently imprisoned there. I tried to imagine both the Apostles James and Paul preaching here. Amazing! Kind of like
walking in Jesus´ steps in Israel. Gaudi´s Palace was interesting though nothing compared to the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona...not a fair comparison.
Returning to the hotel, I found out that they had a computer with Chrome and an SD port where I could finally load my pictures from the second week on the Camino. So I did some editing and posted the blog...just in time to take a taxi to the train station.
My train left Astorga at 3:15 PM and arrived in Ponferrada at 4:12 PM, thus avoiding a three day walk over a mountain range. Upon arriving in Ponferada, I took a taxi to the Marriott AC Hotel Ponferrada, checked in, and asked for the bus schedule for the following day to Lugo...one left at noon so I would be on it. Ponferrada also started out as a Celtic village, but was replaced by a Roman gold mine. Today the city is famous for its 13th century Templar Castle, so that's where I headed first. The ancient town is very nice with balconies jutting out above the narrow streets. The castle is also impressive.
Then I saw a sign stating that McDonalds was 1 minute
away. So I decided to be an ugly American and have a Big Mac, all in the interest of economic research...The Economist newspaper has the Big Mac index for determining purchasing power parity so I thought I would confirm where Spain stands compared the the U.S. Well, a Big Mac costs 6.3 euros or about $7, so Spain seems to be much more expensive than the U.S. or at least Woodland Park where a Big Mac costs $4.00 plus tax. I did´t find that to be true of hotel prices, however. The five star Parador San Marcos cost me $114...much less than some two stars in the U.S. Another pithy observation...the Trip Advisor and Booking.com ratings for the five star Parador San Marcos and the three star hotel in Astorga were identical...8.5 out of 10! That goes to prove that these rating systems are totally out of whack...or that 15% of people are never satisfied with anything. Perhaps both.
The walk to McDonalds was much more than one minute. Even a ride in a taxi would take more than a minute. Spanish minutes are like Spanish kilometers; both much longer than in the rest of the world. I took
a taxi back to the hotel. There I read my email and Facebook and began to compose this blog. I then ate a late dinner at the hotel restaurant.
Lesson learned: You deserve a break today!
24 September 2016 Saturday. Ponferrada to Lugo This phase of my Camino ended and the next phase, walking the last 105 km to Santiago, began in Lugo.
My original plan was to only walk the Camino Frances. However, during my research I learned that the town of Lugo had the only original Roman wall surrounding the ancient part of the City. So I thought I would take a day trip to Lugo and return to Sarria. When looking at a map of Lugo I noticed markings indicating that the Camino Primitivo, the original pilgrim route to Santiago, went right through the town. So I decided to take the bus one way from Ponferada to Lugo; then walk the Camino Primitivo to Melide where it merged with the Camino Frances.
I also wanted to see the country through which President John Adams passed before he became President on his way to Paris to represent Congress at the Court of King
Louis XIV. He started in A Coruna, following a route which today is the A-6. He wrote the following in his dairy regarding his accommodations: "We went from Lugo to Galliego and arrived in good Season, having made six Leagues and an half from Lugo. …I saw nothing but Signs of Poverty and misery among the People: a fertile Country not half cultivated: People ragged and dirty: the Houses universally nothing but mire, Smoke, Soot, fleas and Lice: nothing appeared rich but the Churches, nobody fat but the Clergy. Many of the Villages We passed, were built with Mud filled in between joists, Nine tenths of them uninhabited and mouldering to dust. Yet in every one of these Scenes of desolation, you would see a splendid Church, and here and there a rosy faced Priest in his proud Canonicals rambling among the rubbish of the Village." Obviously he had issues with the church! Today, even the most humble pilgrim today has accommodations that far exceed what Adams encountered, for which I am grateful! And the churches and cathedrals remain, for which I am also grateful.
My bus departed Ponferrada at noon and arrived at Lugo at 1:30 PM. I
took a taxi to the Hotel España, where I checked in and dropped off my backpack. I then toured the town, primarily the wall, but also the cathedral. I walked the 2.3 km circumference of the wall and then talked to some Canadians who were part of a tour group at the cathedral. I would meet them again in Santiago. I had supper at what became my favorite café. Tomorrow I would start walking to Santiago. See my next blog
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Slowing the pace
So glad you got physical therapy and are on the mend. Your body thanks you. Isn't it amazing what those magical hands can do? Listening to you makes me want to schedule a massage as my neck and shoulder have been bother me. I can feel your aches and pains. The music, the foods, the friendship...I'm so glad you are taking it all in. The experience you are having is amazing. I'm glad you are stopping to see things rather than walk, walk, walk. Eager to read more.