Heading north up coast of Spain

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Travel blog 19

Monday, 24th March 2008
Easter Monday
Determined to see Toledo today, as driven a long way to get here. Dosed myself up and headed out of campsite just as bus came along so hopped on for short journey into the town which is entered by one of three bridges.
It really is the most picturesque place. Decided I would visit the cathedral at cost of 7 euros, so agreed to meet Andy later. The cathedral was definitely worth a visit. I thought it was splendid and one of the best I have ever seen. The massive choir stalls were something in themselves. Hundreds of amazing wooden carvings at a lower level depicting scenes allegedly of the fall of Granada. Poor old Granada! Cannot believe that these related to the book I am currently reading by Philippa Gregory "The Constant Princess" which details the fall of the Moors in 1491 from the Alhambra Palace to the Christians. Although the book is historical fiction, it brought the whole thing alive for me. The upper level was filled with hundreds of alabaster figures of people from the Old Testament. Really there is too much to write about, but the highlight for me was the Sacristy which was like a miniature art gallery. My day was made seeing a work by Caravaggio of St John the Baptist. Although I am not a great fan of El Greco, his painting of Judas, was haunting and unforgetable. Could not believe seeing the work of so many famous artists, with so little fuss or advertisement. Really was pushed for time to meet up with Andy. Unfortunately he had slipped on a pavement (honestly, cannot leave him). An elderly Geman gentleman had helped him up (!) but he had pulled a muscle in his back, which is never good on the best of days. Whilst I was in the cathedral he visited the church of the Jesuits, not for any religious reasons but for the view point from the top of the church tower.

Together we visited the synagogue de Santa Maria la Blanca built in the 12C but in 1405 taken over as a church after expulsion of the Jews and also a massacre in 1391, now excellently restored. After a few hours wandering around this amazing town we sadly hobbled back like a couple of old biddies, feeling twice our age. Him with 'is back and me wheezing like a good 'un....

If you ever fancy a weekend city break, we can recommend Toledo. There is a fabulous five star hotel beside one the bridges, placed for easy access to an interesting city/town.

On arrival back at the site there was only our van and another one that we recognised as a couple from last site, Laas and Margarita a young dutch couple with a lovely schnauzer called Jessie, who we had fallen in love with as she reminded us so much our Jack. They joined us for the evening and we feasted later on pain killers and Vick!

Today quite a notable event. I made a Spaniard smile. Had been on my "to do list" as am sure they all at some stage in their lives attend 'surly school'. I bought ticket for Cathedral at a demountable building and then entered building through glass doors.A hand popped out from glass, so I held out the ticket and when the hand went to take it, I pulled it back. How absolutely childish, but HE LAUGHED!

Tuesday, 25th
Sadly we had to leave Toledo. I asked at the campsite office if there was a discount for a longer stay but unfortunately not. As it was nearly 30 euros a night we could not afford to stay and just sit on the site. Such a shame as it was a lovely, in the most perfect position, 10 minutes walk from Toledo. Drove off site in the sun - typically like England, as soon as holiday over, weather improves. Drove back along N300 but heading for Cuenca. Stopped at a supermarket for a shop and then headed out of town (too far to walk in sadly) to campsite. Camping Cuenca, set in a pretty woodland. More amazing were the 'facilities'. What a shock, marble walls, floors, pot plants and piped English music... Sadly we only gave it an 8/10, as no toilet paper and no hand-drier! Getting very particular, although not sure why in Spain. I just will not go into the toiletry habits of the Spanish for fear of putting you off using a toilet in Spain ever again.

Wednesday, 26th
After a good night, but neither of us feeling 100% decided we would enquire about a taxi into Cuenca. Did not feel like driving in and are concerned now about leaving van in town. Temperature only 7 degrees all day and we both felt cold to the bone. Booked taxi for 12. Nearly gave up by 12.45 but eventually an old Skoda rolled around corner driven by a sour old Spaniard. Cuenca turned out to be an interesting old town sitting atop a large rocky hill, surrounded by two large ravines, carved out over time by the river waters. It is locally known as the "eagles nest" in reference to its position and because the capital is built on a single rocky point, a product of the continuous flow of the Jucar and Huecar rivers. It is an area of limited size, used to the utmost advantage with buildings perched all around the edges of the rock itself, overhanging the emptiness below. Around the Moorish town's narrow winding streets grew the Gothic and Renaissance city, its monuments built in the past with the profits of the wool and textile trade. The main site is the cathedral which we did not get into as there were a few drunks lurking in the entrance and we felt off-put by this. The city is divided into two areas, to one side the old quarter situated on the rocky hill and to the south-west the new city; now not at all new! The old part was declared a World Heritage site in 1996.

After a few hours of dodging showers and struggling around the city we decided to head back. I managed to get in another hair cut as the comments had started yet again.."Oh, you have started housework early dear, getting those cobwebs off the ceiling with your hair"!! If only one day I could be quicker witted than he!

Had a rough night. Temperature very low and us both feeling the cold then Andy's back starting going into spasm and he was in terrrible pain all night and alternated between sitting in chair and laying in bed.

Thursday, 27th
Survived the night but awoke to rain and cold. I felt Andy might need a doctor as he was getting by on painkillers alone and we were now concerned it was not his back that was the problem. Left the site and headed back inland via the mountain route. We drove for hours up and down the mountains without seeing another car and I have to say the journey although somewhat nerve-wracking, restored by faith in Spain. The scenery in the range Sierra de la Camarena was truly spectacular and unmissable. Found a busy little campsite in a tiny place called Nevarajas where we stopped the night on the higher terrace overlooking the mountains. Would really have enjoyed it here, but Andy started feeling unwell again and we knew we needed help so left first thing in the morning for the coast and a Doctor.

Friday, 28th
Drove up along the coast North of Valencia, to a place called Benicassim which had been recommended to us. Absolutely beautiful sunny and warm day so pitched up on the busy site and Andy found a good Pharmacy where we got some strong anti-biotics for a kidney infection. Slept well, at last.

Saturday, 29th
Lovely blue sky and with both of us feeling a bit better we had a lazy day wandering along the beach and up into the small town. Camp site situated right in the heart of the town which was great as we just walked out and were within reach of the shops and a small typically Spanish town without any tourist trappings.

Sunday, 30th
Kindly neighbours offered us to join them for a BBQ and later in the day we joined the throng of Spanish promenading along the mile long sea front. Clocks had moved forward an hour at 2am last night and today it was still light at 8.30pm, making a lovely long day.

Monday, 31st
Walked the length and breadth of the town with our neighbours to a large camping shop and purchased a new chair to replace one we had broken. Feel like we are on holiday by the sea and in the sun. Said I felt guilty about this but Andy's response was "Well, you have not had a holiday this year"!

Tuesday, 1st
Got a shock today when we popped out of the site. Met Ian and Patricia who we had Xmas lunch with in Portugal. Lovely surprise to catch up with them again and to exchange travelling tales. Went out for a luncheon meal. Only 7 euros for 4 courses including a glass of wine. Plain food but well cooked and then paddled back to the site along the waters edge.

Wednesday, 2nd
Decided to catch the bus into Castellon de la Plana, a big town south of Benicassim. Caught bus right outside site which took us on the half hour run into the town. The town was originally founded on high ground inland, the capital of Castellon province was relocated to the coast in the 13C. When we originally drove past here on the main road out of town, I thought it looked industrial and ugly but was really surprised at what a nice town it was. Nothing really outstanding about the place or the architecture, but it was uncommercial and very Spanish. The hub of the place is the massive working port, but we just enjoyed the day walking through the central park and immaculate gardens, in and out of churches but not in the museums which still seem to be closed here awaiting re-opening in the summer season. Catching the bus back was not easy (as is usual here). You never get on a bus where you got off. Still after asking six people the way we eventually found a stop, a long way out of town, where the correct bus rolled up. Got back about 6 and enjoyed a cold beer in the evening sun.

Thursday, 3rd
Highlight of the campisimo week - market day. We joined the throng of campers and locals along the well worn route and purchased our fruit and veg, also picking up the odd little bargain. After lunch got the bikes out and headed south around the coastlinento the next village called Larosa which was extremely pretty. Here we found some fantastic little villas set into hills and forests, where it is alleged that Tony Blair spends some time. It was a delightful place and mostly deserted. Stopped off in a little cove and had a paddle in the sea, which does not seem to be getting any warmer. Enjoyed a BBQ in the evening and sat out until 9.

Friday, 4th
After sunny start and breakfast in the sun the skies clouded up. Invited our nice neighbours, Pat and Graham in for dinner as we had purchased some skate wings. Enjoyed a pleasant evening until washing up time when we took our dirty dishes down to the basins nearby. On our return realised we were locked out of van! However, being married to an ex-fireman can be a bit of a bonus! He had soon collected a ladder from reception, was on the roof and had hooked keys off the hook by the door with the awning pole, whilst myself and both neighbours were pondering who was smallest to climb in back locker to try and lift up bed at the back, he had come up trumps and we were back inside!

Saturday, 5th April
Decided on an early walk up into the mountains. The east coastline around Spain is all backed by mountains leaving only a small area between beach and mountain for urbanisation. Headed inland and were soon scrambling up rocks where we had the most amazing view of the whole area. Very hot today, so found a shady spot under a tree and sat just taking in the scenery and atmosphere, feeling thankful for what we were able to see and do. The walk back through the orange groves was something else and we became quite heady with the wonderful scent of orange blossom. Pat and Graham kindly returned a meal and we enjoyed a delicious langoustine salad with them.

Received a delightful photo from Stuart showing Alexia practising putting nappies on a teddy bear!! Boy, terry nappies have certainly changed in the last 20 years.....

Sunday, 6th April
Awoke to blue skies and 16 degrees so bit of a shock to hear from our 'snowgirl' Luc that it was snowing at home. Had a good old tidy up of the van inside and out ready to move up the coast tomorrow. At lunchtime walked along the beach to a little bar where we could pick up the internet. Here in Spain on a Sunday all the shops are closed, so Sunday is a real family day. Actually turned out to be one of those days when everything went wrong. A helpful man, who Andy did like to say no to, gave him some engine oil (don't ask why!). When he went to get something out of back locker resembled the Torri Canyon! Hence ensured a big clear out and the throwing away of shoes, umbrellas, etc. It was a sad mess. As if that was not enough, when I took computer to internet cafe I put my USB stick in trouser pocket, which I then spilled handcream down. Thought a quick wash would get job done, forgetting memory stick! Moral of tale is do not wash USB sticks, they do not like it.

Whilst sitting in sun I decided to stop drinking the local vino as I thought I saw a bright green and blue bird fly into a tree. Sat puzzling over this and thought it must have been a parrot as it was quite large. Later Andy came running in for camera saying there was a yellow and red bird pecking around. We later discovered that there is a Spaniard in Benicasim who paints pigeons! Presume this is OK and if not, please do not get in touch!

Monday, 7th April
What a grey old day, typical of a Monday morning. Moving on today so had a clear up, said goodbye to Pat and Graham who were heading homeward tomorrow and also to Ian and Patricia, had lunch and set off North on the good old N340. How I had missed this road.... not! We were heading to Peniscola only about 30 miles away. When our girls were small we spent a lovely week here on a package holiday with AP's, Karen, Peter and Greg. Drove along the coastal road to find camp site El Eden, 50m off coast road. Parked up outside as decided we did not want to pitch up just for one night and walked back towards the old town and castle. Skies very overcast, wind howling and sea very rough. Could not really settle as we had parked in a no parking area, 50m from police station and both started to feel anxious about this so got back in van and drove further along coast into Benicarlo which meets Peniscola somewhere along. Found a camping aire where we could park the van in a fenced in car park with toilets, electricity and water for only 8€ so settled for this.

Opposite our car park(!) is a big hotel, Peniscola Plaza, so after an evening walk sauntered into the hotel. What an amazing place. Reception area had a sheet waterfall back lit and with running water and massive mirrors. The reception area was like a giant hall subdivided into lounging, drinking and computer areas.Despite feeling extremely under-dressed ordered a drink and took in the ambience and a bowl of olives, usually offered with drinks. Hotel looks more than 4 star but it is situated in Benicarlo rather than the more up-market Peniscola which may have affected its ratings.

For first time in months picked up the BBC!

Tuesday, 8th April
Awoke to bright blue skies, despite poor weather forecast. Decided to stay in car park another day and after a quick glimpse of "to buy or not to buy", were soon strolling along the busy promenade towards old Peniscola about 3 miles away. Stopped and had a nose around Hotel Papa Luna which still looked good after nearly 20 years. Wandered up into the old town which clusters around the base of a castle built on a rocky promontory, surrounded on three sides by the sea. The labyrinth of narrow winding streets and white houses is enclosed by massive ramparts entered by one of two gates. El Cid was filmed here in 1961. The castle was built on the foundations of an Arab fortress in the late 13C by the Knights Templar. Later it became the residency of the papal pretender Pedro de Luna, cardinal of Aragon, who was deposed by the Council of Constance in 1414. Today Peniscola is a thriving holiday resort with a wonderful beach and we really liked it here as much as we did when we first came 20 years ago.

Decided to take advantage of one of the many restaurants along the front and enjoyed a meal of canneloni, calamari and ice cream, washed down with a bottle of wine. Really trying to be a bit more careful now with our euros as the change in rate since we left UK has left us 400 euros a month short, which is a big difference. We keep hoping the rate will start going up again, but unfortunately no sign of this yet.

Went back to hotel in evening to try to use internet. Unsuccessful in that I could not get an @ key, no matter how I tried; so wasted 2 euros and half an hour of time. Not very successful saving those euros.

Wednesday, 9th April
Grey old day but at least warm. Gradually moving up the coast as planning on meeting Mother and Gordon in Barcelona when they stop off for a day whilst cruising the Med! Now find ourselves in the Catalonia area of Spain on Costa Dourada. Soon found a site at a place called L'Ametlla de Mar just north of the Parc Natural at the delta of the River Ebre. Apparently it is a good wildlife haven surrounded by a prosperous rice plantation. Wound our way to the camp site NOT avoiding the town as the guide book suggested! Quiet site with only a few pitches for van use. Main site full of chalets and mobile homes and surprisingly used by Keycamp. Would hate to be here in August although having said that there is nothing around the area. No hotels, shops or restaurants. Site sits in middle of nowhere, 500m from a shingle beach. Cannot believe the change in scenery having driven only 50miles from coastal area made up of miles of sand. After lunch enjoyed a lovely walk along the cliff tops looking down on the sea crashing onto the rocks below.
Wi-fi on site so by tea time trying to add blog - with no success...

Thursday, 10th April
Awoke to another cloudy day but weather warm. Decided to set off down to the cliffs again and follow red and white signs on the footpath walk northwards. What a surprise; around every cliff corner was the most fantastic view. Sun broke through and with the waves breaking onto the rocks below us, hundreds of wild flowers growing on the land side and birds singing all around, it was a great walk. Around one corner we were left stunned at the beautiful view of a little inlet with boats moored up and lovely villas set around the waters edge. Felt this was undiscovered Spain. Thought I heard a Hoopoe (first for a long, long time) and then it appeared. However another highlight was when we stopped to eat our picnic high on the cliff top and saw around the bay a school of dolphins porpoising out at sea. Soon woofed down our rolls to get closer, but unfortunately by the time we crossed the beach ahead, the dolphins had gone. Think they were following a large fishing vessel around the harbour. Around one little cove there was a man-made beach which had just been cleaned so we took off our shoes and had a paddle, before making our back along the road. Got back and by the time we had made a cuppa, there were spots of rain interspersed with sunny intervals. No shops around here at all so made a store-cupboard dinner washed down with a glass of local wine.

Wind got up during the night so we did not sleep well listing to howling gales and hearing things crashing about.

Friday, 11th April - Happy Birthday Karen!
Wind still really strong this morning and we had to hang on to our hats everytime we went out. Set off along, guess where.... N340. It was a horrible journey as Andy had to fight to keep the van on the straight and narrow due to the gale force winds. Were planning to do a shop en-route, but did not find any opportunity to stop. Arrived at our destination of Sitges about lunchtime and found the camp site we had pre-arranged to meet a couple on Monday. Also site renowned for ease of access to Barcelona with a bus outside the gate taking you directly into Barcelona centre. However, we signed in and parked up but I really hated the place. There were cats everywhere (Margaret you would have hated it!) with weeds growing and the whole area being totally unkempt. Andy went to use the facilities and said they were unuseable. That was it for me. Had seen another site further along the road so we went for a nose around and liked the site 100% better. Told the site owner we would go and get van and return immediately. The downside of Camping Sitges was cost of 6 euros more per night. So much for saving money! Did not do much more today other than plan our days out in Barcelona.

Sitges is renowned as a 'gay' resort but I guess we will not be seeing too much of the town as really we were using the place as a base. However, the palm lined waterfront looked lovely as we drove through and certainly worth a visit.

Funny how things work out, at 6 mother rang to say there had been a change of schedule to her cruise and they would be coming into Barcelona tomorrow instead of next Wednesday. This quite suited us as we could meet them and also friends on Monday and then head off for Andorra where we plan to go next.

Saturday, 12th April
Set the alarm for an early call and caught the bus outside campsite into Barcelona. Took an hour straight into city centre, via airport (Andy loving watching planes coming and going), all for 2.85€ Had planned to walk to port but had call from mother to meet her at Cathedral. Lovely to meet up again and we were soon in the Cathedral at the heart of the Gothic Quarter. Mum loved it and we spent some time admiring the many side chapels which encircle the nave.
After stopping for coffee in El Corte Inglese we headed down Las Ramblas an historic avenue full of flower stalls, caged birds, dancers, musicians and mime artists. What a fascinating place with so going on it was hard to take it all in. At the end of the tree-lined Las Ramblas is the 60m monument to Columbus set in the middle of a roundabout but where you can take a lift up for a panoramic view of the city. After enjoying a beer in the warm sun whilst being entertained by a clown, we walked down to the port ready for Mum and Gordon to catch a bus back to the Aurora. Apparently the old industrial waterfront was demolished for the 1992 Olympics and now Barcelona boasts a truly attractive waterfront and promenade. In fact the whole of Barcelona is a delight. The amazing architecture of Gaudi (1852-1926) is everywhere where he created the most highly original buildings known as Modernisme, a variant of Art Nouveau.

After waving off AP's we set off for a walk along the marina. Tried to get onto the cable car for an aerial ride, but the waiting time was 30 mins and we are not good at waiting. The tourist bus rides were busy too and there seemed queues for everything. Instead we just milled around the back streets admiring the buildings and facades and just the amazing pace of the city. Found La Boqueria, Barcelona's colourful food market. What a place. It was all hustle and bustle with Barcelonians jostling to buy and to sit and eat. It was fascinating to see the locals ordering food and the stall holders then calling out for ingredients to the other stalls around. Everything looked inviting but I caught a bit of a cold when my language skills failed badly when I tried to order grams of mushrooms, ending up with a kilo. Never knew there were so many mushrooms in a kilo. Still menu for next few days decided; mushroom soup, mushroom risotto and mushroom omelettes washed down with more mushrooms, until not mush room for anything else!

Caught bus back and really enjoyed the journey. Arrived back at camp tired but having enjoyed another lovely day. Will add photos of Barcelona next blog as they seem to have disappeared off stick!

Sunday, 13th April
Sort of feeling we might give up on Sundays! Today's crisis was the filling of the water tank. Tap too far away to connect a hose so got out the new watering can! With the help of a funnel, piece of tube and a connection which I hung on to, Andy traipsed up and down site filling the said can. Job complete.... No, we thinketh not. Soon as we took hose out the water suddenly gushed out of the bottom of the van. Nothing we could do but get the instruction book out for advice. Seemingly we had caught the escape valve with the hose and the tank was now completely empty. Plan B. Empty van out and fill with said can, beneath interior seat. Back and forth again to the pour tap trying to ignore sign to be careful with water, a scarce commodity, and hope no-one watching.

Things did not get better during day. Had our first real fall out over nothing really, so decided we needed some space with each of us heading into Sitges on our bikes in different directions. He north, me south, determined never to speak again! What a busy place it was on a Sunday. We had heard that it was popular with Barceloneses. Promenade was absolutely packed - bit like Southend sea front, only with azure sea and a perfectly blue sky. I loved the place. The houses were attractive and the front extremely clean finishing at the 17th C church of Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla. Even the old town back streets were crowded and every one of the hundreds of restaurants were busy. There was a lovely, lively atmosphere, helped by the good weather.

Good job neither of us sulk. We have heard tales of people not speaking for days so our normal marital relations were resumed. On returning to van a caravan was parking up next door and my faith in the Morgans was restored. Two nice smiley Germans - unheard of so far. Mind you they were two young men in their twenties and I must admit I had an enjoyable half hour watching their biceps and triceps manoevering their van into place. Next thing was in for a surprise when I saw Stephen from Cornwall (the man who I had helped with his computer) pull in. What a surprise for us all. Soon got another chicken breast out of freezer and enjoyed rest of the evening watching Man U play Arsenal followed by a curry and bottle of wine. So a better end to the day than the day had begun.



Thanks for e-mails from USA blog followers. Will reply soon as we can get into internet cafe!

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Photos

Toledo
We loved Toledo

Cuenca
Historical Cuenca

Cuenca
Old Quarters

cuenca
Not our new house but camp site toilet block!

Benicasim
View from the hills

Benicasim Birds
Unusual colourings of pigeons

Peniscola
Peniscola sea front

Peniscola old town
Pretty Peniscola

Ametlla
Coastline unspoilt by usual Spanish buildings

Ametlla
Never knew what would be round next rock!

Ametlla Inlet
variations in the area

Barcelona
La Boqaria market off Las Ramblas in Barcelona

Sitges
Really like it here at Sitges