Hot Sevilla

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An intense, but still oddly very enjoyable day. Since I left my cord in Madrid, I had to catch the 6:25 train back. That meant getting up literally at the crack of day in Toledo, and walking to the train station basically in the night. Was nice, though. Cool and it smelled good. A refreshing change from the usual crush of tourist. In at Madrid by 7, I sped walked back the 20 minutes to my hotel, grabbed the charger, and sped walked back to the train station, just in time for my 2 and a half hour bullet train South to Sevilla.

This is true Spain, this countryside around Sevilla. It's hot and arid, but also oddly tropical and lush. I saw my first palm trees today. And this region, and really all of Southern Spain, is such an odd combination of Christian and Muslim. Andalusia is actually an Arabic world, Al- Andalus. The Moors, the Muslims that is, controlled this area for a long time before the Christians somewhat rudely pushed them back into Africa. From what I call tell, these Moors were nicer people at least. They accepted nearly all faiths and respected great learning, whereas the Christians, once they conquered, kicked out the Jews and created the Inquisition. Funny how history work - who we view as the "good" guys.

And this Arabic influence is incredibly pronounced in Seville. The Alcazar, although a Christian palace, was designed in the Moorish style, and throughout town you see the classic Arab horse-shoe arch. And just like last summer in Turkey and Egypt, the palace is slathered in tile. Actually really missed those two countries today. Besides that, Seville actually has the largest cathedral in the world in area (but St. Peter's and St. Paul's are still technically bigger). For the first time in a long while I was actually realized moved by this massive place. It's just so massive, and you feel so incredibly small.

Hot, though, almost brutally so, and I'm pretty sure I've burned my feet into a perfect looking sandal. Which sucks because my foot tan from last summer, baked on in Egypt, only just went away a couple of months ago. I do like it here, though - Seville has a kick to it, is a lively, fun place, and the people here just truly seem happy to be alive. My enjoyment of Spain had been faltering this past week, but it suddenly got a nice injection of life. I like this part of Spain. This is where they dance flamenco and bull-fight.

Tomorrow I head first to Cordoba, and then take a bus to Granada. Should be fun.

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Photos

Sevilla Cathedral
The palm trees and horse carts immediately made me think of Luxor, Egypt - and that constant haggling. Found myself oddly avoiding them.

Massive, Soaring Nave
Just goes up and up. Can't help feeling small in here, which I guess is the point.

Looking Up at Dome
Plateresque dome, which means silver, because the intricate tracery looks like the work of silversmiths.

Columbus' Tomb
Pretty cool to see Christopher Columbus' tomb. See the St. Christopher on the wall? Fitting for such a man, a great traveler.

Another Tomb Shot
He's actually suspended, being help up by 4 kings.

Treasury Dome
Liked this because it's hierarchical. God is way up in the upper dome, the white part. While below him are all the lesser beings.

One More Nave Shot
A wonderful place.

Giralda Tower from Orange Garden
The cathedral was first a mosque, and the fountain is where the Muslims washed before praying. The Tower is the symbol of Sevilla, and used to be a Muslim Minaret.

Giralda Tower
Climbed up it. Which was easy because it was wide, since it was made for a horse to walk up it. 5 times a day a Muslim rode up to call the devout to prayer.

Entrance to Alcazar
The Christian palace after the Moors were kicked out.

Columbus Portrait
All of the New World voyages were planned at the Alcazar, and this detail of a painting shows the earliest know image of Columbus. He apparently was blond.

Courtyard of the Maidens
The heart of the Alcazar, and the most beautiful part as well. A beautiful place.

Tile Work
Just like in Turkey and Egypt. Thought I was back in Topkapi Palace in Istanbul.

Mudejar Style
This place has the best examples of Mudejar around - the blend of Christian and Arabic styles. Horse-shoe arches, but held up by such Western, Christian columns.

In the Alcazar Gardens
Hot, tired, sweaty, hungry, thirsty, nearly delirious with fatigue - but oddly having a great time.

Garden Shot
Very tropical looking.

Nice Shot of Giralda Tower
Leaving the Alcazar.

The Barrio Santa Cruz
This is the old Jewish quarter - see the Juderia sign on the wall?

A Kissing Lane
Tight squeezes in the Barrio, close enough to kiss between buildings.

Plaza Espana
Only went here because this is where some of Lawrence of Arabia was shot. When Peter O'Toole goes to the officer's club with his Arab guide.

Another Plaza View
Great scenes in the movie. They place it as Damascus, I think.