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Published: November 5th 2005
Peeking out of the train window as the sun came up this morning we were greeted with a beautiful surprise. We were entering a real life winter-wonderland. Snow and ice blanketed the entire countryside. The half-frozen rivers we passed we steaming in the cold winter air and the small wooden houses outside all had little chimneys billowing with white smoke. It looked like a scene from a fairy tale. As the sun appeared in a hazy shade of pink, we could see people walking along the train lines bundled in big wool coats with giant fur hats. Welcome to Russia!!
The train ride from Ulaanbataar seemed much longer than the 36 hours it was. I came back from the Gobi with a very bad cold which made sitting in a small train compartment with three other passengers almost unbearable. I should have stayed in Mongolia longer to recuperate but the time on my Russian visa is quickly running out and the train was calling. So here we are. I'm still coughing and stuffing infinite amounts of kleenex up my nose. But I think the worst is over. At least for now I have that sultry, raspy voice I have always wanted. Hehe..
Gerry and I had a lot of trouble finding a hotel room when we arrived. We were heinously ripped off by our taxi(?) driver. And the hostel everyone recommended to us was full. We lugged our big bags around town for a few hours before we located a hotel in the city center for a decent $25 a night. By the time we found the hotel my hands were so cold I couldn't unbuckle my backpack belt nor unzip my wallet to get out my money. I was like a little kid depending on Gerry to help me. But a hot shower and breakfast of Russian pastries and hot tea fixed that. And, now I am at the internet cafe down the street.
The big tourist draw to Irkutsk is Lake Baikal - the worlds deepest fresh water lake. We plan to stay in the city one more night in order to register our passports with the Russian authorities and then head over to the lake for a night or two.
So far, so good. I'm still watching all of my possesions like a hawk. The older Swiss gentleman who shared our train compartment was robbed of his camera and all of his important documents and credit cards as he boarded the train in Ulaanbataar. So, my moneybelt will remain my best friend and appendage. While I am having a great time on the rails traveling I am starting to look forward to the day I can un-pack my backpack for good and carry my money safely around in a purse or my pocket. Only a few more months to go!
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elaine busch
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fish in lake Baikal
Christy this lake is so cold and deep it has a fish in it that acutally melts when warmed to room temperature! Thinking of you and love you MOM