Siberia's Back Door

shouldvebeenthere,shouldvedonethat
Oh, it brings it all back to me. I did try - in the opposite direction, in 1998. However, applying for the border area access pass meant contacting the border troops in Kosh Agach, who said they wouldn't issue it as there was 4m deep snow on the passes, and even their troops weren't patrolling. They kindly gave me use of their showers as the 2-room 'hotel' had no running water or indoor facilities. So I hitched the long way round via Khakassia and took the back, unpaved route into Tyva. Got arrested at the inter-republic border post as the 2 young soldiers had never met a foreigner, let alone seen a business visa. No telephone or radio, or common language, but after waiting a day for something to happen, using my bilingual dictionary I wrote an officious letter of complaint to Yeltsin, and showed it to them. That got me a lift on the next truck to the military post in Ak Devorak, and after telephonic communication with Kyzyl, a charming lady border guard blushingly apologised! She took me to a free bus to Kyzyl which I shared with that year's local group of very drunk and tearful draftees - following plentiful kisses and waving goodbye to family and girlfriends. I then accidentally spent the next 2 years living there, working at the uni teaching English. Then I did the same in Kalmykia - another story.

More photos of minutia
The stories of the endurance travel are very interesting but Christopher and I agree that we want to see additional photo documentation of your daily experience: Street scenes, Grocery stores, meals, accmmodations, etc. in addition to the vistas and monuments. Stay safe!