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Published: December 22nd 2011
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We were once again lost in a foreign city. We had been trying for the last hour or so to find Mercado do Bolhão in the center of Porto, Portugal. We seem to spend quite a bit of our travels, Frances and I, lost in the bowels of one city or another. Most of the time this is intentional because it is one of the best ways to get away from the maddening crowd, thereby seeing ‘sites’ that the masses tend to miss. (You know who I am referring to, the confused looking German, English, American, etc tourists, seemingly always beefy, always pale white, except for their faces that are always flushed from being herded by their flag-carrying guides.)
We were lost again, but this morning was different because we had only a few hours before I needed to meet with some colleagues from the University of Porto. We needed to find this market before too long, or we would have to turn back to our hotel. And then we spotted the guy carrying two slabs of dead pig. Now, it was possible that he had decided that the best type of pet was 1) deceased (no need to feed
or take outside for toilet breaks) and 2) edible, but we figured a more likely explanation was that the pig parts were either going to or from the Mercado do Bolhão. We thought it was worth the risk that we would be following this guy home, and we fell in behind. This got me to thinking about why you should always make it a point to visit markets wherever you travel. It’s because they are so sensual. In fact markets are a one-stop shopping experience for pleasing all of the senses – sight, smell, sound and taste.
Sight
I love looking at meat. I especially love looking at meat that has already been grilled, smoked or fried. And, for some strange reason, my delight is even greater if there is a hoof, foot, head or tail still attached that helps identify the species of origin of the food item I am lusting after. But, it isn’t just pig, chicken, fish or cow parts that attract the eyes in local markets in China, Portugal, India, Thailand and elsewhere, it’s also the beans, rice, cabbages, mangoes and so much more. In fact, unapologetic meat-lover that I am, I could live for
a very long time on what my vegetarian and vegan friends like to call ‘food’. The only problem is that the vegetables and fruits are so beautiful in both color and shape that it is difficult to not feel guilty as you cut them up – difficult, but not impossible.
Smell
O.K., so sometimes the market aromas don’t necessarily fall within the strict guidelines of ‘sensuous’. In fact some parts of markets, and sometimes the entire market smells more like a board of directors meeting of PETA. But, most markets have a marvelous mixture of smells that match the country/region in which they are located. Indian markets smell of cardamom, ginger and ghee. Portuguese markets are redolent with the fragrance of meat, flowers and cheese. Thai markets are awash in the aromas of grilled bananas and the scents of innumerable types of peppers. With all this variety of wonderful aromas, what does it matter if you occasionally encounter a smell that reminds you to check the bottom of your shoes? You’re poised to experience the delights of India, Portugal or Thailand – so quit whining and enjoy the moment.
Sound
For me, a large proportion of the sensuousness
of markets revolves around sound. Coming from the U.S., and in particular being a part of the Anglo portion of my culture, I live within a fairly sedate and muted environment. That makes walking into the boisterous, raucous, laughter-filled bosom of markets in India, China, Guatemala, Italy, etc similar to diving into a breaking wave. Like the ocean wave, I am most often caught by surprise at the force of the sound, and also like the wave I am at first thrown around and lose my center of gravity. But, the deeper I go in, the more I get past the initial turbulence and start to separate and identify the various sources of sound. The heavy ‘chuck’ identifies the meat vendor as his cleaver chops through bone and muscle into the waist-high, wooden block in front of his stall. The softer ‘hum-slosh-hum-slosh’ issues from a counter containing many vegetables and fruits, some of which are being turned into a slurry for hungry customers. The heavy ‘whack-crack’ resounds from many portions of markets, in many places around the globe, and means that thirsty customers will soon be using a colorful straw to draw the liquid out of a coconut. And, of
course, what market would be complete without the ‘squawk-flap-flap-flap’ indicating the ridding of the world of another potential carrier of bird flu.
Taste
All the travel guides I know of warn that when you are traveling to many countries, you should not eat fresh fruit and vegetables without peeling, washing or cooking them. Such ‘guides’ also regularly suggest that eating any food prepared by street/market vendors is tantamount to playing Russian roulette with your digestive system. This is good advice, and that is why one of our oft-stated mantras is ‘you can’t scare us, we have antibiotics.’ Now, in case any of you misfits who like to sue people for letting you be stupid are reading this, I will add that antibiotics won’t help if you pick up one of the particularly nasty food-borne infections caused for example by a protozoan or amoeba. But, as for me and my house, we will choose to take the risk and enjoy some of the delicious treats turned out by the meat, vegetable and fruit sellers. Because of this approach, we have enjoyed the flavor of everything from banana roti to fresh papaya salad, spicy chicken wings to mango with sticky rice,
chai tea laced with cardamom to satay. And, for all those timid souls, comfort yourselves with the internationally accepted motto of those peddling food in markets and along streets – ‘poisoning the customer is really bad for repeat business.’
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