Golden Gate in Portugal?

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Friday, June 24th, we took a train from Caiscais to Lisbon. We had heard it was easier than driving into the city plus we had free transport with the Lisboa Card (and we were on a mission to get our monies worth). Lisbon is a beautiful city on the coast with a beautiful historic district and contrasting ultra modern district. As we approached we were reminded of our own city by the sea, San Francisco. Especially when we crossed a nearly identical Golden Gate Bridge. The 25 de Abril Bridge built in 1966 (30 years after the GG) is irritatingly similar, painted the same color as the famous San Francisco landmark and built by the American company that built the Bay Bridge (not the GG). Not only did they rip off one of our favorite American landmarks but also built a replica of Rio de Janeiro’s famous statue of Jesus with outstretched arms, Christ the Redeemer. Our perplexing first impression was not an indication of the lovely city itself. We arrived in the port and walked along the coast and enter the Alfama district through the dramatic triumphal arch. It was a hot dry summer day. First we stopped in to check out the fashion museum displaying fashion and interior design of the last century. We explored the street of the historic district and took in the view from some of the amazing vistas on the hilltops. We passed many outdoor cafes and colorful street performers along the way. No matter the location, if there is space for a café, there is definitely a café. We stopped in lots of small museums and churches (most free so we were not using our card) before we arrived at St. Jorge’s Castle. As we climbed the hill to the castle John was compelled to check out a beautiful courtyard behind a massive red gate. As we entered we were greeted by a smooth character who turned out to be the PR director for the historic palace, Palacio Belmonte, now converted to high-end boutique hotel. He introduced us to the manager who gave us an in-depth historical tour through the palace. At the end he introduced us to the owner and designer Frenchman, Frederic Coustols. We had an amazing chat with Frederic about his many projects all over the world, most recently in China and France. Unfortunately we could not stay since the hotel since 5 star was out of our current budget. After pleasant detour we visited the beautiful St. Jorge castle, which dates back to the 6th century where it served as a royal residence. Today the castle is a place for culture, serving as a concert venue and outdoor art galleries. We watched acrobatic dancers practicing for a performance in the courtyard, there was a fashion photography display throughout, and we caught the beginning of a fado concert. The view from the castle is simply breathtaking, and you can even enjoy it the onsite café or formal restaurant. After the castle we went lunch at a café and enjoyed fresh grilled sardines and a crisp glass of Rosado. That afternoon we took the trolley up to another vista point were we took in the dramatic ocean view and funky tunes of a band from Cabo Verde, Africa.

Saturday, June 25th, we moved to a charming pension in the beautiful seaside village of Caiscais. Beaches, historic forts and luxury hotels accentuate the coastline. Caiscais was a popular refuge for royalty during WWII. Today the regality is maintained with the restored historic mansions and high-end restaurants and boutiques. A coastal trail for runners and cyclists wraps along the dramatic cliffs to the Boca de Inferno “Mouth of Hell”. On rough sea swells waves hammer into the rocks and create a booming sound and massive spray. I jogged the trail to see the Boca in morning but the calm seas only offered a view of local fisherman. We caught a train and headed back to Lisbon for the day. We visited the Pantheon and the ultra modern, Parque das Nações. We picnicked on benches by the water and enjoyed the architecture. That night we visited the ruins of the Igreja do Carmo, a church left roofless in the devastating 1755 Lisbon Earthquake. We were lucky to encounter the symphony performing a free public concert. The towering cathedral walls were beautifully lit in contrast to the black night sky. We lingered a while to enjoy the scene. Later that evening we went to the to Barrio Alto, the popular party district to look for a dinner spot. It was still early by Portuguese standards, 10pm, so the restaurants were bustling but the legendary nightlife was barely getting started. We finished the evening to the sounds of a local DJ at a hilltop cafe overlooking the city lights.

Sunday, June 26th , we took the train to Belem, a town West of Lisbon on the banks of the Tejo River. We explored the Mosteiro de Jerominos, admired the view from the top of the Tower of Belem, and marveled at the Padrao dos descobrimentos (a monument to the Portuguese explorers who took part in the discoveries of the 15th-16th centuries). John wanted to check out the electricity museum. It was an interesting place, housed in an old coal power plant along the river with exhibits showcasing significant energy innovators and inventions. After an electrical education we sipped mojitos at the museum’s modern riverside lounge (love the Europeans – they make sure you can find a drink around every corner). Next was a trip to Pasteis de Belem. As we approached the busy bakery with a line out the door winding out the door we could smell the pastries. The friendly staff efficiently severed the salivating masses eager to get their hands on the coveted pasteis de belem (nata). We decided to try to grab a seat in the café and were lucky that someone left as we started hovering. We ordered two pasteis de natas and glasses of port. As we bit into the flakey crust and sweet custard we were in heaven. We finished the pasteis and noticed we had forgotten to add the secret ingredients: a sprinkling of cinnamon and powdered sugar. We order one more to share, added the extra touch and blissfully bit into Portugal’s best pasteis de nata (my mission was complete).

Monday, June 27th, we left the Lisbon area heading North stopping at all the coastal surf towns along the way looking for waves. We found some waves but little else of appeal in Ericeira. We were optimistic knowing the Quicksilver pro surf contest had just been held there a week earlier. We enjoyed a few hours surfing fast waves in super shallow water. It was great to get back in the water since we hadn’t surfed in a while. We continued North and stopped in tiny Santa Cruz for the evening. We caught sunset at the Bar do Mar on the beach. We were charmed by the amusing commentary and delicious mojitos from the bartender, Henriquo. He had a special recipe blending three types of liquor. So good we had another, “when in Portugal” you know. Henriquo told us he had just moved back to his hometown of Santa Cruz after working in the tourism industry abroad for years. His good friend, had recruited him as staff for the newly opened beachfront Bar do Mar. We asked him to recommend a good restaurant in town and he said upstairs their restaurant was the best but they were closed for a special family and staff dinner with a guest chef. Lucky for us the lovely owners, Silvia and Maria Vitoria, invited us to join them. The family and small group of employees were so welcoming to us. They handed us delicious white sangria as we walked in the door and introduced us around. We felt so honored to join this exclusive group for the evening. Most of the group spoke English and Spanish, which was perfect since our Portuguese was still lacking. They prefaced dinner with a beautiful toast and warning that “Portuguese love to eat”. Then delicious food flowed from the kitchen in waves. Spicy prawns, omelet with mushrooms and sausage, octopus salad, grilled veggies, cheeses, olives, bread and on and on all complemented by Portuguese wine. We laughed and talked with these wonderful people who welcomed us into their world for the evening. The finale was a decadent chocolate and custard cake paired with velvety port wine. We hung out for a bit while Silvia was spinning in the DJ booth before we headed back to our humble tent.

Tuesday, June 28th, we spent the morning exploring Santa Cruz and headed down to the beach and eventually back to Bar do Mar. We enjoyed coffees on the sundeck and caught up on the Internet. The owners were busy at work coordinating the planting of palm trees and other upgrades they were making to the place. They just took over the place 12 days earlier. We went upstairs and enjoyed a delicious lunch in the restaurant to support the new restaurant after receiving such great generosity. I couldn’t resist ordering a little more sangria and finding out the secret recipe since it was probably the best I have had. (Needless to say I think this place will be a huge success: awesome beach location + amazing drinks + delicious food + friendly staff). I now know the secret sangria recipe and will keep it that way. Can’t wait to make if at our next party. After lunch we were on the road again heading North. We drove to the town of Peniche hoping to find waves and a lovely beach town. We were let down from our high expectations, having heard it was one of Portugal’s best surf spots. The waves were flat and from what we saw it was a rundown 90s resort town. As time stretched into the afternoon we continued up the coast and chose Nazare for the night. We checked out the town and settled into a really night campground for the evening.

Wednesday, June 29th, we explored Nazare, an overgrown beach town. One of the first unique things we noticed was the town’s local women sitting in chairs on the corners, dressed in traditional felt skirts and aprons, calling out “ “(room for rent) to incoming tourists. The town is divided into upper and lower Quarters. A steep inclinator connects the historic cliff top dwellings to the beachfront village below. We walked along the beachwalk into town and the base of the inclinator. While waiting for the passenger car, we spotted a little hole in the wall cafe with $.90Euro wine and beer. While we waited for the inclinator, we ordered two glasses of the local red wine. No great but only at $.90Euro it was quite the value. The owner, a charming Portuguese Grandma, had just prepared some delicious looking clams for the couple next to us. We followed suit and ordered some of our own tiny local clams. They arrived in prepared in a spicy broth and topped with grilled onions. We washed them down with a cold beer. Needless to say several inclinators came and went while we enjoyed our impromptu lunch. We jumped in the next car and rode to the windy top of the hill. We took a hike to the lighthouse and down a steep cliff side stairway to take in all the views. We also explored the tiny chapel covered in hand painted azules (blue tiles). The tiny window revealed an amazing view of the gold sand beach on the coastline below. That afternoon we enjoyed some time at the beach working (on our tans).

Thursday, June 30th,we set out North to the second largest city in Portugal, Porto. It is one of the oldest European cities uniquely located on the Douro River Estuary. Porto is also the origin of port wine. Barrels of the sweet nectar grown in the nearby vine terraced Douro valley were originally brought by barcos rabelos (flat boats) via the once raging waters of the river. Local boat captains had the dangerous job of delivering the wine to the many adegas (wineries) that embrace the shores of Vila Nova de Gaia across the river from Porto. Now dammed the Douro River, is much calmer and the barcos rabelos have been converted into tour boats. That afternoon we got a room at a lovely and quirky Astoria pension (a pension is an inexpensive simple hotel) run by the charming Deolida mother and daughter team who chat with you as you come and go. It was in a great location at the top of the hill overlooking the bridge. Nearby stairs and an inclinator led to the cafés and port wineries on the riverside below. We explored the old city and treated ourselves to a nice dinner at the ultra trendy Traca. After dinner we sampled some of the local port offerings at a highly recommended tasting bar. It was a sweet ending to the day.

Friday, July 1st, we jumped on some rented bikes and started exploring Porto. It was challenging to maneuver through the narrow old cobble stone roads and crowded city squares. We headed out of the city to the coastal bike trails. It was an industrial modern contrast to the historic city center. On our way back we rode by the major sites and plazas of Porto. The highlight was the eccentric gold Igrega Santa Clara. That afternoon we dropped the bike at the pension and headed across the river to Vila Nova de Gaia to visit the port wineries. Our first stop was the well-known Sandeman. We arrived just in time for the 4pm tour ($5 Euros/pp) led by a tour guide dressed like the caped icon. The Sandeman icon was created in 1928 dressed in a Portuguese college educational robe and a Spanish bolero hat. The beautiful artistic wine labels are recognized the world over. The tour was interesting but over-crowded and commercial. They poured us a taste of a mediocre white and red port. We were underwhelmed. We ventured up the hill through the narrow corridors and stone streets to Taylor’s. The French/British décor and garden were a great contrast to the contemporary atmosphere of Sandeman. They offered a complementary tasting and a menu with reserves and port wine cocktails. We decided to try a Pimm’s cup, made with dry white port, tonic and fresh mint, in the English garden terrace. We sat in the sun sipping the refreshing concoctions and enjoying the view from the hillside. We also tried a dry white, a red ruby and red tawny port in the tasting room. We enjoyed them all. We headed to the tiny Calem tasting room. We sat outside on their terrace and were served a too sweet white and strong red ruby port from a friendly wine educator. We walked back down to the waterfront where we stumbled upon Vasconcellos winery, which ended up being our favorite place. Antonio led us on a tour with just one other lovely couple, who were from Italy. He explained details of the nearby wine region and about the wines they made. That night there was a huge free concert in the city (actually on the river where they anchored a floating stage). The band was similar to No Doubt playing funky punk music headed by a passionate female lead. The city was overflowing as crowds lined the shores and incoming cars jammed the streets. As the concert came to an end we climbed the hill to the upper bridge for the perfect view of the fireworks. We enjoyed a spectacular pre 4th of July fireworks show.

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