Still in the Algarve!!!

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Thanks to everyone for comments on our blog - our following seems to be growing quicker than we are travelling on!

Travel blog 8

Monday 29th October - continued

Decided we would hire a car for a week and explore the whole of the Algarve whilst leaving the motorhome on the site as a base as site only £7 a night with electricity. All place names in Portugal beginning with Al are of Moorish origin and Al-Gharb as it was stood for the West - the western edge then of the Islamic empire. Five centuries of Arab rule left a legacy still visible in the architecture of the area although this is now almost overshadowed by blocks and blocks of apartments. We are told the Portugese are amongst the biggest second-home owners in the world and I guess it is now winter for them, so hence the closed up buildings. School here finishes at the end of June and resumes beginning of September. Grafitti is bad (apparently new craze)- nice new buildings but always with grafitti.

Traipsed around the town to get the best car deal which in the end was £80 for week for a Matiz. Andy disappeared to get a hair cut and again got in a muddle with his command of Portugese language. Managed a quatro all over which was not too bad. He felt he got a good deal for his 8 euros, but may be because he told them he was a pensioner and it was Monday, pensioners hair cut day! I had an hour on the beach which was quite deserted and peaceful. Temperature averages 23 all day but drops quite quickly at about 5 and by 9 down to about 15.

Tuesday, 30th
Up bright and early ready to collect our shiny new Matiz and then more delighted to hear of the 'double upgrade'. We followed the lady outside in eager anticipation which was quickly thwarted when she led us to an ancient Rover 25. Could not believe this was our upgrade! It was awful - broken windscreen, no wheel trims, no power steering and the previous user had been a big smoker. We should learn that you get what you pay for. Blessed thing kept stalling - probably always had. Still we got in and set off for Sagres on the most westerly peninsula. In the 15 Century Portugal shot to prominance when Henry the Navigator set up a Navigation school at Sagres and launched the age of exploration from here. Think the first scholar was Tom Tom from Holland!! In the middle ages this windblown cape was believed to be the end of the world and the Romans named it the Sacred Promontory. We could see why. It was an amazing sight and we paid the small fee and walked around the top of the cliffs where the views were stunning. Fisherman were casting lines from the top of these massive cliffs and some hung off tiny ledges with no means of support. Saw that Sagres had a beach and took our packed lunch down to eat. What a wonderful stretch of sand with only a handful of people lazing about. From here took the tiny coastal road and stopped at all the little coves along the way until we got to Praia da Luz which was slightly more upmarket. This is where Madeline was taken from and apart from camera crew still mooching about, the only reminder here was a notice on the church door about a service being held to mark the 6th month anniversary of her disappearance. At Luz the beach was fairly crowded and we guess it is very popular with tourists as it has a good feel about it and a lot of villas and apartments built around big complexes housing golf courses and fitness centres etc. Got home a bit late as we have to keep waiting until there is no one around so we can get in the car - in case we are seen! Found some oven chips in a supermarket so bit of a treat for dinner!

Wednesday 31st
Andy thanking his lucky stars he is not home for Halloween - something he hates with a passion. He used to sit at home with the lights and tv out until he thought he was safe from ghouls and ghosties - alias the dear little children who lived around our estate. An early start today as we set off for Lagos, westwards. What a wonderful place it was. Still the trappings of the 15th Century remain with ancient walls mixing with the new which are sympathetically incorporated. There is a lovely beach just off the town centre and a wonderful marina and the whole place exudes a warm and friendly atmosphere. We loved it. Had a fish lunch in the town - cheaper than buying a roll! Walked alongside the marina where there was a lovely apartment for sale, so being nosey we called in. Only two bedrooms but the frontage looked straight across the marina which is backed by the town - it was a spectacular view and one you would not get fed up with. However, price was spectacular too, but we managed to keep a straight face. On reflection of the price which was 400,000 euros, we thought perhaps for its position within the town (and on the Algarve) and the fact that the building would be secure and maintained, maybe it was not too bad. It is just that we expect these apartments abroad to be cheap and we do not think they are any more, they are English prices. Council tax for the apartment was only 62 a month but the monthly upkeep to cover painting, security, maintenance of grounds etc £100. After lovely day here stopped en-route home at a shoe factory as I was wanted to replace pair of driving shoes. Andy thought this highly funny as have not driven for 10 weeks! So to justify the shoes drove home. Poor old Andy looked quite shaken when we got home and headed straight for the bar!

Thursday, 1st November
Today in Portugal is a public holiday for All Saints Day - when people remember the dead. We thought it would be busy everywhere so decided to do a few jobs in the van leave Ruff the Rover to have a rest for the day and headed off for the beach. As it turned out beach was quite empty and everywhere very quiet.

Friday, 2nd November
Faro, the capital town of the Algarve our destination today. After Lagos thought we may be disappointed. Parked quite easily (still have not paid to park anywhere) and headed off to explore on foot. Faro seems to fan out from the small harbour which encompasses the compact Old City to the southeast and is surrounded by wonderful salt marshes, a bit like Tollesbury. Andy loved it here. Lots going on so I left him on sitting in the hot sun on the flight path to Fara where he was in his element plane spotting and being able to watch the comings and goings of the harbour and marshes. I set off into the historic centre where I walked the many steps up the tower of the cathedral. The panoramic view from the top was amazing and I was glad of binoculars. Mind you, Andy had left camera at home today and I was not best pleased about it as there were so many views I wanted to capture. At this height I was level with another storks nest. This time stork was standing on the nest which was built in the BT aerial!. The cathedral was actually very nice. One wall decorated in blue and white tiles (azulejos) and the chancel made of ornate gold woodcarving. I found it pleasing as all areas were quite small so you did not get the feeling of being overpowered. The best bit however was the senses to the ears! Someone was playing the most amazing music on the church organ which apparently people come from all over Europe to play on it as it has a range which includes the horn and a nightingale's song. What a treat to sit and listen along with few other tourists who arrived at just the right time. Reluctantly leaving here I visited a small chapel which was made up of human bones. Not sure if this is true but it is said that it was a way of acquiring space from churchyards? Not often I am spooked by things like this but found it very ghoulish.
Later sat with Andy on wall and watched the fisherman unload buckets of inky (and stinky) octopus, presumably for market and then wandered through the town which was quite upmarket with some posh shops set into historic buildings with rows of orange trees lining the pavements - and full of oranges. Another thing we noticed here was the houses with four sided, pyramind shaped roofs, which apparently allow any sudden torrential rain to run off. It is wonderful in these towns unlike at home where every town now looks the same having been taken over by same old chain of shops. Out of town shopping centres are the same I guess. We often see a Staples and today saw signs for Makro.On way home called at a shopping complex where Andy tucked into a KFC with relish. Bet a lot of people treat Faro as an airport city but missing at least a day here would be a big miss.

Felt a bit fed up later as we have had a lot of evenings in reading and doing puzzles but with no TV or radio it can feel a bit quiet. There are a quite a lot of Brits on site, mostly snowbirds in their 70's who are settling here for the winter. They build up little enclaves for their six month stays with their caravans, stores, awnings, windbreaks and put plants and lights outside as well as hiring massive satellite dishes (to pick up English tv) Not so sure how we feel about this, but perhaps in 20 years time it may have its appeal?

Saturday, 3rd November
Oh Boy, blue sky again. Andy said it was clouding over but when I went out there was one tiny fluffy cloud! Packed up a lunch and headed back up into the mountains to explore. Between the coastline and the the mountains is a fairly barren and infertile stretch of land, but once you get passed this rising landline is filled with orange and olive groves. Drove right up into the Serra de Monchique mountains. Very, very quiet here and we passed only a few cars all day. Few lovely villas have been built into the hillside and the views from must be fantastic. Stopped and had our lunch in the most peaceful spot - not a sound to be heard (apart from us munching through the sharp crusts!). Watched a woodpecker through the binoculars and just admired the wonder of the land. There is still bourgainvilla out, a lovely orange and red verbena and the pale blue plumbago. Perched on the top of a hill was a little village called Alte where we stopped for a cappuchino which we enjoyed sitting on a balcony overlooking the most pretty village. Spent an hour wandering around the steep pathways and river complete with waterfall. On way back to car, Andy's ears picked up "Rooney" so he dashed into a little cafe to catch last ten minutes of the Saturday match. It was great sitting amongst the locals enjoying English football (they must be madder than we thought!), despite the end result of a draw. Decided to have another go at the driving, this time determined not to stall the car and not to try and change gear with the window handle! At bottom of the hill police again pulling people over - car in front and car behind, whew! For some reason had forgotten to take our documents today (legal requirement and without which an on the spot fine - police cars fitted with money machines to ensure payment!).

Decided on a meal out and enjoyed a lovely Indian meal at a recommended restaurant. Wandered through the town which for a Saturday night was quiet. Back to bed where we can hear the perpetual motion of the waves. Lovely.

Sunday, 4th
Up and away early today for a big monthly market held at Fuzeta, 50km east. Jeff our neighbour had told us about the event and when we offered for him to join us he was more than happy. He is here on his own for six months, having sold his house in Lincoln, and spends his life ski-ing (spending kids inheritance!). He comes back here every winter and travels Uk during summer months, but now considers this to be home more than UK. It turned out to be a car boot sale (in a pretty setting, along the sea wall of a village - pretty coloured boats all moored up alongside the wall). It was a massive event and we spent a couple of hours wondering about, but did not see it all. Could have bought anything here from live chickens to cakes and ornate church decorations. Actually, it would have a collector/antique dealers dream. I recognised the value in so many things on offer. From here drove a bit further east to the town of Tavira. It was an extremely pretty town lying both sides of the river Gilao, linked by one Roman bridge and seemed to accommodate tourists without compromising its looks or atmosphere. We enjoyed a sardine lunch by the riverside and watched boats heading out to Illha de Tavira, a sandy offshore island, popular for swimming. Stopped at a "Jumbo" shopping centre for Jeff to get some shopping, taking advantage of being able to transport home heavier items - mostly unusual bottles of beer as he sits on the big committe for CAMRA. Passed a road traffic accident on way back (first one) where a motorcyclist had hit something badly. Bike was in bits across big stretch of road and we guessed he would not have survived. Stopped by roadside and purchased 5 kg of oranges for 1.5 euro so for dinner had orange cocktail for starter, duck a'l orange for main and orange flambe for dessert washed down by lovely glass of orange juice and there are still 100's of oranges in bag.

I think anyone would enjoy staying anywhere along the Algarve. There are really not many hotels apart from those attached to the big golf courses (and apparently are a bit of a rip-off to stay at?). Mostly there are apartments to rent and eating out is cheap and easy as there are thousands of restaurants to chose from. Think I might try for a job with Portugese tourist office when funds get low!

Monday, 5th November - "How to enjoy Bonfire Night!"
Decided we would not go to work today so got up a bit later and after a bacon butty decided to visit the coastline just East of where we are staying. First port of call was Sao Raphael Beach, followed by Coelho where we sat on small area of sand surrounded by the lovely golden cliffs and watched the waves crashing up onto the rocks along the shoreline. Hot today and despite this sea was quite rough but we sat for an hour mesmerised by the sight of the spray and trying to capture it with camera. Drove further along the coast and found a beach where the waves were not so fierce so that we could have a swim. Had a last drive of the car around the local area and stopped and looked at new housing development. Saw a lovely 3 bedroom house with swimming pool and massive underground garage for 375,000 euros, which made the 2 bed apartment at Lagos seem expensive. Armacao de Pera is a poorer area and despite being rough around the edges we love it here. Actually feel quite reluctant to move on as there is everything here. The site is cheap and food inexpensive and the Portugese such nice people. On site there is a weekly library, dance class, Portugese lessons (difficult we gather, despite being 5th most spoken language), walking club etc. Just down road you can join the literary group, learn belly dancing, play bridge and have art, computer or camera classes. But of course the best thing on offer is the climate - all year good weather and never far from beach where you can swim all year. Tempting.....................

Took car back after dinner to the Hotel Garbe and enjoyed a coffee in the relaxing bar there. Purchased our Royal British Legion Poppies and learnt that British Legion here organise quite a lot of events throughout the year. We have been buying the Portugese Weekly paper which gives us a good insight of what is going on.

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Photos

Pitch at Odivelas
Fantastic spot

Sagres cliff top
Ali - still on cliff top!

Harbour at Sagres
Fishing boats

Praia de Luz
Luz

Lovely Lagos
Birds at Lagos

Hills in the Algarve
Unurbanized Portugal

Alte
Pretty village in hills in Algarve

Beach
5th November on the beach!

Coelho Beach
Capturing the waves

Chapel of Bones - ugh!
Not sure what Tollesbury PCC would have to say about this one!