We have hit the Algarve!

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Travel blog 7

Saturday 20th October

Lovely to wake up in the heat. Set off into Evora which as we anticipated was wonderful as you might expect a walled Roman city to be. The city's historic legacy was officially recognised in 1986 when UNESCO declared it a world heritage site. In England we make such a fuss and big deal over anything historical but here we just walked thro a Roman temple erected in 2nd Century and the cathedral was wonderful. The houses within the city walls were very 'Moorish' where the architecture retains many Arab features. On the drive to Evora we passed big industry in the cork oaks. Apparently it takes 20 years before the first bark is removed for tanning. The outer bark then re-grows and is ready for stripping again every 9 years, and after each harvest the quality improves. We knew that the cork was turned into insulation and wine corks so were very surprised in Evora to see a few touristy shops selling everything made of cork - hats, shoes, postcards, handbags etc etc. We spent a long time wandering about the place, off the beaten track and sat and ate bread and pate in the sun in a small cafe.

Got back to the site and put kettle on for well deserved cuppa when onto the site pulled a bus with a Finnish number plate. The Campisimo then turned into a 'religious monument' - all of us motorhome owners praying it would not park near us! It was awful, an extremely old blue coach converted into a home for two elderly Finns, the driver with two walking sticks! Sometimes it is hard to accept the different needs of folks. We could not have managed the bus with each of us being fit!

As it was Saturday and we were near town decided to walk back in for a meal and enjoyed an excellent Chinese. Difficult deciding what to eat as food did not resemble English/Chinese and no English spoken. In the end played Lottery and ordered our Lottery numbers so had a number 3, 5, 13, 14,15 and 27 and obviously had more luck with the food than winning the lottery. Bit of a rush back to see second half of rugby.

Sunday, 21st October
Funny weekends are still weekends to us. Routine is to clean out van in the morning while listening to Steve Wrights, Sunday Love songs - goodness knows why(sad confession); but its tradition. Temperature 28 today so had a lazy time reading and swimming and then a roast for dinner which we shared with our lovely Dutch neighbours whose names I never got to grips with. He was Klois and her name was one that you roll from the back of your throat as if clearing plegm. Tried it 3 times but never got to grips with it. His favourite English saying was "Oh Man" which has become this weeks catchphrase. Had mosquito's in van all night, despite now being a two-fly swat family and each of us having areas to swat before getting into bed. Andy's, "so long suckers" became a reality as they bit us well that night.

Monday, 22nd
Up and away again but only down road 50 miles to a site in small place called Odivelas (off N2). We had been warned that roads from here south were bad and they were right. Terrible roads with pot holes and tree stumps. Arrived at the site in the middle of nowhere and found a pitch overlooking the Barragem (dam) de Odivelas absolutely beautiful - perfect and so peaceful (apart from flies). A big site but the few vans here are lost amongst the trees. However found an English couple in their 80's who are staying here until next Easter! We are all so different in our needs. Whilst the peace and setting wonderful, I would not want it for too long.

My day was made when a Hoopoe landed nearby. Could not believe it - an amazing bird with long downward bill and black and white tail feathers and a fan-like crest, plus managed to get a photo of him. During course of day saw Azure winged magpie which was startling and a crested lark. Went for walk around the reservoir. I walked by water and Andy up in the grass. I saw a crayfish and Andy called me to see something which turned out to be an enormous snake devouring a lizard. On my approach the snake disappeared so the lizard (very large in itself) had a lucky escape. Why he thought I would want to see this I will never know - nearly ran home!
By 8 we were in pitch darkness not a sound anywhere, so curled up with book.

Tuesday, 23rd
Had been longing to see view from bed of the sun rising on reservoir but disappointment. Heavy mist hung around giving no visibility. Heard on news about parents dying in Sagres trying to save children from sea. Sobering thought as we had planned to visit there next week. Set off to explore today on foot - not much to report but quiet and peaceful with lots of interesting birds to see. Rained on and off during night.

Wednesday, 24th
Bit damp first thing but sun came through later in day. Explored outside of camp around the dam and enjoyed drinks with two English couples here with caravans - all having worked in schools as heads, deputies, assistant heads, so lots to chat about; especially as all ex's. Got around to doing some painting today, so very relaxed.

Thursday, 25th
Very different outlook today - hot and sunny from the start. Got bikes off and cycled into Odivelas - 7 km away and thankfully mostly on the level. It was a poor little village but we were running short of euros and had been told of a handytil there! In the middle of this tiny place there was a til and two tiny shops. Popped into one where an old lady of about 100 tried to show us all her wares- not much; shelves with a few tins on and a few trays of sad looking veg. However, felt sorry for her so purchased a few onions and big bunch of bananas and packet of locally made biscuits for 2 euros! Local dog complete with mange took a liking to us so spent a while trying to lose him! Called into a place with ice cream board outside and purchased two magnums and 2 coffees - again only 3 euros. Oddly the local ladies were all sitting around browsing thro the IKEA catalogue - nearly asked for a peek as it was the 2008 version! Strange what we witness sometimes. Tonight there was a full moon and the view from the van was amazing with the light reflecting onto the water. We sat outside until late just admiring the wonderful location and the peace and quiet.

Friday,26th
Had planned to move on today but the site is so delightful decided to go tomorrow. Went for an interesting walk around the reservoir with English couple - Martin and Judi (ex teachers from Devon), who shared dinner with us while we sat and watched sun go down and moon come up. Wonderful. Can understand why people stay here for months on end - altho in middle of nowhere it is peaceful, quiet, picturesque and everyday is somehow different depending on the sun and moon. On reflection this may be one of our best sites - but there is a whole world out there and we are keen to set off again and explore - roll on Saturday!

Saturday 27th
Said goodbye to Martin and Judi, whose company we had greatly enjoyed. Set off for Ourique a dutch owned site which had been recommended to us. Needed to do a big shop first as stocks very low. Thank goodness for our reasonably sized freezer which we would not have managed without. Had to drive to Beja to find a shop. Beja turned out to be an interesting looking town but quite busy. Found a Mondela supermarket which we like but unfortunately whole of south Portugal's banking system down. No-one could pay by card or withdraw cash, so problems at tils with people not always having enough cash etc! Portugese quite accepting of this and we wondered how England would cope in same circumstances? Not sure it would certainly on a Saturday morning! Set off down IC1 road to Ourique but unfortunately could not find site despite spending ages looking. Sadly gave up (had been looking forward to an archeological walk around Roman ruins) and as on main road made big decision to hit the Algarve! Poor old Dora had not been reprogrammed and was still trying to find Ourique for us - so by time we hit end of 100 mile road, Albufeira, she had quit talking to us (I was glad of peace as was getting fed up with her 'sharp rights'). Pitched up in one of the 3 camp sites slightly west of Albufeira at Armacao de Pera. After the peace and tranquility of last week we went into shock! However, pitched up quickly and headed into the small town. As we walked in I kept saying to Andy "this is just like the place I stayed when I came with Lucy 7 years ago", had a promenade like this, beach like this, "Oh and there is hotel we stayed at"! Could not believe it - here I was again at Hotel Garbe! Fond memories of a lovely holiday with Lucy during difficult time at home. Had a paddle in sea before returning to cook fish for tea.

Sunday,28th
What a difference being here - edge of small town and associated noise (including the barking dogs!) with 100's of restaurants offering English dishes, English newspapers, English radio station - Kiss, and of course the Snowbirds - all the Brits starting to move south for the winter. Having said that the site we are on is quite large but I guess only 10% full. Mostly Brits who are here for 6 months. Apparently it gets busy about Christmas time and site is nearly full by January. The climate here is fantastic - 28 today. Andy is thriving on this. He feels so much better with bright blue skies - think it is not even the sun - but the light he needs. Our first feelings of it all being too much soon dispelled and we thought "why not". It costs slightly less than £200 a month to live on the site which includes heating and water. You would only need food and insurance and could therefore survive on quite a small budget and most do. An elderly gentleman in van next to us just about survives on his small pension but feels he has a good lifestyle here which he said he would have in Yorkshire. Portugal is very safe and you just feel comfortable here - don't want to tempt fate but have not heard of any security problems since our arrival. We do not feel need to lock van if we go out. All the bad tales are reported to be in Spain.

We do not have access to BBC anymore as the footprint for reception ends at Lison (apparently) unless you have an enormous satellite dish (some do!). Only think we can pick up is Sky news and BBC NHS channel!! - How come one asks and why the channel??? Not going down that road.

Anyway, as usual I digress. Set off at 11 for a walk and decided to beach walk to next town called Gale - about 3 miles away. Really enjoyed lovely walk. It is something the Europeans all do too. There are always people walking on all the beaches we have been on - and why not? At one stage had to cross a little inlet but eventually arrived at Gale and walked around the small town - very new with big hotel and condiminiums for sale everywhere. Went back to beach and found a headland walk along the warm ochre coloured cliffs. It was fantastic. Stopped in little cove and had a swim where water was warm still. At two decided to head back. However, got to the little inlet and thought - Oh heck - this is different to when we arrived - looked much deeper. Decided to strip back to costume and hold bag above head, but after going in up to shoulders decided against it! Well nothing else for it - leave beach and walk back along the road. However this all proved too difficult - we could not get across the river inlet - no bridge anywhere. We kept walking and walking and we were getting sunburnt and bothered as there was no end to this. Well eventually we round a little 'tea room' so at least had a drink and toasted sandwich. Eventually arrived back at van at 5 after walking for five hours - in only beach shoes. Boy our feet were sore and after a shower and sit down we both struggled to get up again (poor old souls/soles!!!!).

Bit of a shock that we had put our clocks back an hour too and did not like it getting dark at 7!

Monday, 29th
Thought of everyone going back to school today and felt a big miss in not being there to catch up with everyone and their news after the half term break. As well as family also miss the people we worked with - Andy too. Have saved money this money so thinking of staying put on site and hiring a car which we can do for 60 pounds for week and only 6 pounds a night for site so may be cheaper option. Also we are told the site we are on is one of the better ones in the area.

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Photos

Evora
City centre

Evora
Roman temple and Mr Taylor (especially for those who thought I had pushed him over a cliff and prove to his mum he is still alive and kicking!)

Whoopee for Hoopoe
Hoopoe at camp site

Odivelas
Camp site at dusk