Poland, Chapter 3: My First 48 Hrs in Krakow

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Note: All of the events described in this entry occurred between September-October 2006. For more updated entries and trips, please refer back to this blog at a later date. Thanks and enjoy!


Late September, 2006, c. 10 PM GMT, I am making an effort to find my way out of the train station in order to find a cab, which I do. I give him the address of my hostel, which he takes me there, but there is no sign and the door is locked. I buzz the room several times and I call the owner's number to let her know that I am here. I end up waiting outside of the building for an hour by myself. I frantically call her, telling her that I'm here and demand why I can't get in. I begin to panic, what should I do, what should I do I thought and wished I could have screamed out loud! Finally, a middle aged lady with medium long sandy hair and glasses with a huge black dog walks by. I tell her I need help, that this is supposed to be my hostel and I can't get in. I give her the number and the woman graciously calls that number using her cell phone. After a brief conversation on the cell phone, she hangs up and tells me in English, "she's coming."

She then left and I yelled "dziekuje (thank you)" as she headed on. Twenty minutes later, I see this white cab pull up in front of me and this very thin, petite woman with long black hair in her forties I presume walks out. "Are you Danielle?" She asks in English. I nod and reply yes. "You should have called me a day before, it said so in my advert" (I had applied online through hostels.com). I don't remember it saying that, I thought. It said to call upon arrival but I thought that referred to buzzing the call buttons in front of the building like I did at my hostel in Warsaw. "Well, hmm, I'm sorry I didn't realize that." It was a lie I'd admit but I wasn't going to start an argument. "So you are staying how long, 8 nights?" I nodded. "I need money for room upfront now in cash." I felt uncomfortable about this but I kept that to myself. "I don't have the cash right now I'd need to go to an ATM." She motions with her hand for me to follow her and says "no problem...come with me." I follow her into the cab, the driver waiting for her. It looks like its her personal cab to me. I kept on thinking-there's something weird about this, I don't like it, I really don't think this. There's something wrong with this setup. But then I thought, come on Danielle you're upsetting yourself and exaggerating the situation. You're going to be fine she's a small business owner it was just a miscommunication flop, just shut up and go on. We finally arrive to an ATM, I get out my money and give it to her.

After giving instructions to the driver in Polish we go back to the "hostel's" location. She gives me keys for both the building and the apartment. I go up the building, it's very old and doesn't look like it's maintained well. It's not abandoned bad, but it has some good wear. I don't see any other young people around, because apparently there were other rooms. In fact I saw people, older people who looked like they were residents. "Here is your room. So where are you planning to see? I recommend Warwel Castle, it's the best." I just nodded "yeah i'll take your word on that." I was still freaked out but I kept on telling myself to stay calm. She then gives me a map, shows me how to use the tv and everything, bids me good night and goes. I spend the rest of the night watching Polish TV and eating and drinking items in the provided mini bar and talking to my mother on my cell phone.

The next morning I wake up feeling refreshed and happy. I was looking forward to exploring Krakow. I will admit I was still a little freaked out from last knight but I was determined to let it go and enjoy the rest of my vacation. I use her directions to get to Market Square and I spent the entire day there. I explored all the stores-I found a really nice grocery store that had a huge deli with lots of homemade pierogies and other Polish delectables. There was also a nice bakery. I then go visit the Museum of the History of Krakow, which was similar to the Museum of Warsaw in regards to set up but I did find it interesting. I got to tour lots of churches, including St. Martys Basilica which I must say was one of the most ornate and colorful churches I've seen in my life. I noticed that people were attending mass when I went-I noticed that every day throughout the day masses were held. I remember attending one that day and I noticed that everyone was participating and saying their prayers and responding after the priest (a sight that's not always seen in the US and the Catholic population is strong here). I then go inside the market and look around. Outside the market I encounter a few artists who were doing lovely watercolors and pastels depicting Market Square. I ended up talking to a lady about my age who had some lovely watercolors. At first she talked to me in Polish but when she realized I was American she spoke to me in English. I asked her questions about her work and how much it cost to buy something of hers. I finally settle on two paintings, one for my future home and one for my mother. Before I leave she asks "so what brings you to Poland? On holiday?" I nod, "yeah but I'm also here because of my Polish ancestry." I tell her about my grandfather. "You know what I think, this is just me," she says, shrugging her shoulders and pulling back her lips "but why look back on such horrible things, it's the past. I think it's better to move on, count on the good things." I was silent at first because I felt I had a right to know but I could see why someone would think like that "Yeah I see what you're saying. There's nothing wrong with your opinion, I just I want to know for myself what happened, I feel I have a right to it." She nods and says "you have a point but like I said that's just me." I eat my very late lunch of chicken kebabs and fries in a restaurant right in the middle of Market Square (which was not very good I will say, shouldn't be surprised).

Around 5 PM GMT I decided that I would make an effort to go back to the "hostel." I try to retrace my steps however I don't see my street name at all. I then realize I'm walking around in circles and am in a part of town I don't recognize. I start to panic, especially since I didn't know enough Polish to receive directions, I could ask but not receive them. I wander like this for almost an hour. I decide to call up the hostel owner-she did say that if I needed help I should call her. I tell her my predicament, however she says that she doesn't understand what I'm asking which I would believe because her English wasn't very good, but I had deemed her my last hope and those words hit my heart like daggers. I was crying and I felt very insecure, afraid and lonely. I wasn't sure what was going to happen to me. However I then remember duh I have a cell phone and I have the number of the taxi company that took me home so call them! Well I did, ordered a taxi and sure enough one came to pick me up and bring me back! I felt euphoric and secure again, however when I checked my things to make sure I had my phone after the taxi drive drove away, I realized it was missing.

Ok I was now beyond words distraught. The only thing I could think of was run back inside the "hostel" jump on that bed and cry. That cell phone represented my connection to my family and friends back home in the states-my social life in dijon sucked and they were my only relief apart from the joys of my geographic location. That cell phone also helped me with my travels around Europe-helped me get back to the "hostel" so it was valuable. So loosing that cell phone brought back all those feelings of alienation, insecurity, frustration and sadness. I wanted to go back to France, and there was a part of me that wished my mother was there to hug me and tell me everything was going to be ok. Well, after I had my very long and much needed cry, I went to the nearest pay phone, where there was a kiosk. I bought a calling card to use the phone, however I had a hard time using it. The lady in the kiosk told me that she couldn't help me because she was on duty, however a local pedestrian actually took the time to take my card, insert it in the machine and dial my home phone number. She tried several times but we couldn't get it work. Unfortunately she had to be somewhere but I thanked her for her help. After she left I started beating at the payphone I wanted that f$%$ thing to work! I finally did somehow (praise the lord) and I was able to call my mother. I vented to her about what happened and asked her advice on what to do. She said that she would work with our insurance to get a new phone but in the mean time I needed to find a different form of communication. "I'll use calling cards mom and pay phones. I know what to do, I know enough Polish to buy them and I now know how to use the machines. Also, I'm having second thoughts about staying in this hostel mom-she really disappointed me today and last night was just wrong. I think I need to find a different hostel it isn't safe for me to stay here!" Mom agreed with me and said she had similar quelms. "Have you eaten dinner?" I stopped sobbing and said, "No, I saw a delikatesy down the street, I'll get something there to cook." "That's the spirit honey-I love you." I said I love you back and hung up. Talking to mom helped me feel a lot better, I wish I could have gotten the hug I so despereately wanted one but hearing mom's voice saved the day (man I'm crying just writing this, that's how bad I felt folks).

Anyway, I went down to the delicatesy and bought what i thought was a pound but I ended up getting two pounds because I requested for 1 kilogram. I then went to another little store across the street from the "hostel" and got some milk and orange juice. At this store there was a gentleman behind a counter, and he pulled out for me my milk and orange juice from one of the shelves like at an old general store. I came home, watched some more TV and fried up some slices of kielbasa (the apartment had a stove.) That kielbasa was the best I had ever had (it's located on ulica krowodersa) I hope it's still there. And I will admit that kielbasa was what I needed-my mom fries it up like that normally.

The next day I sleep in (I was physically worn out after all that), but as soon as I'm up I begin looking for a new hostel. At first I look for an internet cafe, however as I walk down ulica krowoderska, I run into Hostel Giraffe. I figure I'd go ahead and see if they have availability and God bless them they did! Oh I felt happy, I again I felt my trip was saved and I could feel secure again! Before going back to the old place to pick up my stuff, I decide to spend some time in the bar, where I was offered a free drink (all guests are offered one free drink during their stay). I figured I had earned one after everything I had gone through. I plop down on one of the stools at the bar, I'm the only one there (it's 12 PM GMT most people are out sight seeing).

"Can I have a glass of wine?"
The bar tender laughs, "You're in the wrong country sweet-heart," he says in a very thick British accent, "Only vodka or beer."
I was scared about trying vodka-" a pint of beer please."
"coming up."
"I guess I'm so used to ordering wine because of France," I say.
"Oh really? Why are you in France?"
"I'm studying abroad in Dijon, France-I've been there for a month."
"Really," he ask, "you like it?"
"I do actually."
"what are you studying there?"
"French language, but I hope to take regular classes at the University of Burgundy in the Spring,"
"Wow quite impressive. So what brings you to Poland"
I take a sip of my beer and place it firmly to the table. "My grandfather."
I tell him my grandfather's story.
"So you're half Polish, half American right?"
I laugh, "a lot more complicated than that. On my mother's side I'm also Puerto Rican-on my dad's French and we're thinking Swiss German. What makes me American is that it's my birthplace it's where I grew up. My family history is all over the place."
the bartender laughs, " I hear ya I have the same thing. I was born in England but I'm part (I think he was Lebanese, Indian and Dutch). I grew up with several languages and all these different cultures, didn't know where I belonged. So that's why I chose Poland."
"so you immigrated here?"
"Yep I have a Polish wife and children," he says
"Get on, that's cool."
"so what do you think of Poland?"
" I do like it here I am really enjoying my trip. However yesterday I had a setback." I told him what happened and he welcomed me to the hostel. I then ask him some more details about Krakow as to what to visit, maybe places to eat he gives me some recommendations. Once the conversation reached a stopping point, I thanked him for his hospitality and for our lovely conversation and we parted ways. I went back to the old hostel, grabbed my bags, returned my keys in the box she showed me and turned my back on that place forever. However, even though I physically left it, the staff at Hostel Giraffe and I had a battle over trying to get back my cell phone and also getting my money refunded from the old place. It took four days for the owner of the old hostel to offer back my money, but she said that she would only do it in person, with me alone. I decided to walk away because I didn't trust her-money was less important than my physical safety. As for my cell phone, it's probably been sold in the black market somewhere in Maldova, romania, Russia! the good news is that mom was able to get a new phone sent to me, but that wouldn't happen for another month or so.

In the meantime I could go back to enjoying my vacation. for dinner I cooked up my left over kielbasa (I lived on that stuff for a week actually) fried in medallions like I did the night before, but this time I went to bed happy and back on track!

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