Norway – from Vikings to Oil, June 2023

---

The essence of Norway’s appeal is remarkably simple: this is one of the most beautiful countries on earth. Impossibly steep-sided Norwegian fjords of extraordinary beauty cut gashes from a jagged coastline deep into the interior. Glaciers, grand and glorious, snake down from ice fields that rank among Europe’s largest. Elsewhere, the mountainous terrain of Norway’s interior resembles the ramparts of so many natural fortresses and yields to rocky coastal islands that rise improbably from the waters like apparitions. Then of course, there’s the primeval appeal, the spare and staggering beauty of the Arctic. And wherever you find yourself in this most extraordinary country, these landscapes serve as a backdrop for some of Europe’s prettiest villages.



A Little Bit of History:

Norway's history spans from ancient settlers to modern oil wealth, with many twists and turns along the way. Vikings were the most famous Norwegians, who raided, traded, and explored Europe and beyond from 793 to 1066 AD. During the 14^th century, the country suffered from the Black Plague which wiped out half of its population and was ruled by Denmark and Sweden for centuries. Gaining its independence in 1814, it was then invaded by Nazi Germany during World War II and resisted with courage and sabotage. Thanks to the discovery of oil and gas in the North Sea in the 1960s, Norway became a founding member of NATO and became a prosperous welfare state. Norway is known for its natural beauty, cultural heritage, and social equality, but also faces many current challenges such as climate change and immigration.



Enjoying nature here is very much an active pursuit, and this is one of Europe’s most exciting and varied adventure-tourism destinations. While some of the activities on offer are geared towards the young, energetic, and fearless, most – such as world-class hiking, cycling, and whitewater rafting in summer, with dog sledding, skiing and snowmobiling during winter months – can be enjoyed by anyone of reasonable fitness. Whether you’re here for seemingly endless summer possibilities, or for snow sports and the soul-stirring Northern Lights in winter, these activities are an exhilarating means of getting closer to nature.



A counterpoint to Norway’s ever-present natural beauty is found in its vibrant cultural life. Norwegian cities are cosmopolitan and showcase the famous Scandinavian flair for design through the ages. Bergen, Trondheim and Alesund must surely rank among Europe’s most photogenic cities, while contemporary Arctic-inspired architectural icons grace towns and remote rural settings alike. Food too, is a cultural passion through which citizens push the boundaries of innovation even as they draw deeply on a heartfelt love of tradition. At the same time, a busy calendar of festivals, many of international renown, are worth planning your trip around.



When it comes to wildlife, Norway has few peers in Europe. Here you can watch whales – humpback, minke, sperm and orca, depending on the season – off Andenes, Sto or Tromso while the interior offers up wild reindeer, prehistoric musk oxen, ponderous elk (moose) or beguiling and beautiful Arctic foxes. Birdwatching too is a highlight, from the puffins of Bleik to the migratory seabirds of Runde and Varanger. But the real prizes inhabit Norway’s high Arctic, in Svalbard, where polar bears and walruses are the poster species of rare, dramatic, and precarious beauty.



My current adventure begins in Haugesund, a charming town with a lot to explore. Museums, restaurants, accommodation, hiking trails, shopping, and cultural events - all within walking distance, with tourist information centrally located in the pedestrian street, Haraldsgata. The town is the host of the annual Norwegian Film Festival and Sildajazz Haugesund International Jazz Festival - both held in August. In the surrounding areas, consider exploring idyllic islands, historic sites, beautiful beaches and learn more about Viking history - because this is the area where Viking kings had their royal seat and gathered Norway into one kingdom.



Of course, there is a HOHO bus tour available in the city and by purchasing in advance, a 20% discount can be had, reducing an adult ticket price to $34.37. When cruise ships are in port, the buses will stop directly across the street from the pier. There are a total of 7 bus stops and by retaining your printed ticket and showing it to staff members, a 10% discount is offered at their other Norway destinations. An alternative to this is The City Train which has a unique story to tell about how the city was built on herring and shipping. This trip starts in the city center and runs at a leisurely pace on Hasseloy or “Bakaroyna” as it is called. From there, the train goes north before returning to the city center and south where “the gold floated in the streets” during the post-war period. Here it’s time to get to know the city's Italian-inspired town hall, which in 2010 was named Norway's finest town hall. Before the train returns to the station in Kaigata, the tour goes around Our Savior's Church built in 1901, with the incredible 174’ high tower, providing a bird’s eye view of Haugesund.



Olden – my next stop on the agenda – is a delightful village in western Norway, that is idyllically situated between steep mountains, blue glaciers and foaming waterfalls. From the pier, consider renting a kayak and get out on the fjord. A kayak trip on Nordfjorden is a brilliant way to get close to the exquisite nature in and around Olden. Few things beat the feeling of paddling out on a blue-green waterway in a quiet valley surrounded by majestic mountains, cascading waterfalls, and ice-blue glaciers. The trip is done with an experienced local guide who will delight you by telling tales of Vikings, glaciers, and the fjords in and around Nordfjorden. In addition, the area offers several activities that will suit most people, whether it is a leisurely hike or maybe you would like to discover the nature around you on a bike.



The same tourist transportation exists in Olden as in Haugesund – a HOHO bus tour and a couple of city trains/trolleys, but for a cheaper and definitely more interesting idea, consider hopping on the city shuttles which run every 15 minutes from the pier. It’s an easy 10-minute drive to the Loen Skylift with transfers and you pick the time you want to return. For spectacular views in every direction, riding the Skylift to the summit is the only way to go. Book through Oldenadventure.com



And it’s on to Tromso – located just 217 miles north of the Arctic Circle – it’s the largest city in northern Norway. From late May till the end of July, the midnight sun makes it possible to participate in many activities around the clock – there is no sunrise or sunset! From September to March, many visitors come here to see the famous Northern Lights. Tromso offer superb opportunities for outdoor events such as hiking, fishing, kayaking and whale safaris. Popular attractions here include the Arctic Cathedral, the Polaria Experience Center, and the Polar Museum. A terrific resource is the Tromso Official Tourist Office, centrally located on the 2^nd floor at Prostneset Port Terminal. Here you can pick up free city maps, brochures, information, inspiration, and guidance to make your visit here unforgettable.



As I was here in mid-June, the city center was packed with locals and visitors alike, all to see the annual Marathon run - some of whom were taking full advantage of the free blueberries being offered from one of the vendors (I was first in line for those!). Without a doubt, the best way to view this marvelous city is via public transportation. City buses run within the city of Tromso from early morning to late at night, every day. There is also a night bus service on Friday and Saturday nights from the city center to selected parts of Tromso. Tickets may be purchased on board the bus, but please note cash payments only (NOK). You can also buy tickets from ticket machines, sale points or in the app “Troms Billett”. Most city buses are accessible for wheelchair users. You can bring pets, prams and skis free of charge, as well as wheelchairs, walking frames and small children’s bikes. Additional NOK 20 is charged for an adult bike.

Suggestions to see and do while in Tromso:

The Arctic Cathedral is famous for modern architecture and how the light comes into the building. The inspiration for the shape is the mountains on Haja Island near Summer Island, a 45-minute drive outside Tromso. It takes about 25 minutes to walk from the city center, across the bridge to the mainland where you find the Arctic Cathedral. If you prefer, catch one of the bus lines: number 20, 24, 26 or 28. Departures are located close to the main square.

Fjellheisen, or Cable Car: takes you to the top of Mount Storsteinen, and provides a great view of the city and surrounding landscape. In the winter, it’s an excellent spot to watch the Northern Lights and in summer to watch the Midnight Sun. Take bus #26 from the city center, departures near the main square. If your feet can handle it, it’s approximately 45 minutes to walk from the city center.

Mack Brewery: the world’s northernmost brewery established in 1877 and the city’s oldest pub, microbrewery and shop. It’s a 10-minute walk from the city center towards Polaria.

Polaria: Aquarium with wildlife from the seas up north. They also show movies about the Northern Lights and the Arctic Archipelago Svalbard. See the feeding and training of seals at 12:30 and 15:30 daily. Located by the harbor in the city center. It is approximately 10 minutes to walk from the tourist office.

Polar Museum: Exhibitions about the expeditions and hunting in the Arctic and the Antarctic regions.
Situated by the harbor in the city center, close to the bridge. Approximately a 10-minute walk from the tourist office.

Magic Ice Bar: Ice Bar and Gallery with sculptures carved in ice with Arctic themes. Located in downtown Tromso, just a 1-minute walk from the tourist office.

Tromso Cathedral: The old protestant Cathedral of Tromso built in 1861. Holds the record for being the world’s northernmost protestant cathedral and is the only wooden cathedral in Norway. Located in downtown Tromso with the main entrance from Storgata pedestrian street. A short 2-minute walk from the tourist office.

In the same way as points such as the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn, the North Cape is a place that every authentic traveler simply has to visit. This outermost reach of Europe marks a celebratory finish to any journey to the north of our planet. Nordkapp – the North Cape – is the end of the world. It’s a 1,000’ sheer cliff and you can’t get any further north in Norway than here. Since the 16^th century, the North Cape has been among the premier sailing marks of the world. People have visited here since 1664 to look out onto the raging seas and feel that they have accomplished something very special.

Honningsvaig is the starting point for any adventure to the North Cape – a city of approximately 2,500 inhabitants. Situated on a bay on the southeastern side of the large island of Mageroya, the famous North Cape and its visitor center is on the northern side about 33 miles away. Honninsvaig is the port of call for cruise ships during the summer months.

A Little Bit of History:

The area was first settled in prehistory, as early as 10,300 years ago. The sea was probably the main food source. It was declared a city in 1996 by the municipal council of Nordkapp. National legislation was passed in 1997 which states that a Norwegian city must have at least 5,000 inhabitants, but since Honningsvaig was declared a city in 1996, it was exempt from this legislation. This makes it one of the smallest cities in Norway.

Outside the Arctic Souvenir Shop in town stands a metal statue of a Saint Bernard by the name of Bamse – he lived from 1937 to 1944 and was owned by a sea captain. They both began life as civilians and ended as sailors for the Norwegian Forces. This incredible animal had his own bus pass so that when he went to town from the ship to round up the crew prior to curfew, he could rid the bus by himself! He knew exactly where to find all his shipmates! He also saved lives, conquered foes, stopped fights and watched over his crew – take about superior intelligence – he had that in spades.

Leaving the Arctic Circle in my rear-view mirror (now I can once more actually see sunrises and sunsets), it’s Trondheim’s turn to capture my attention. With its colorful warehouses, waterways and wooded hills, Norway's third-largest city is without doubt one of its most photogenic. Considered the country's historic capital, is a pleasure to explore, with wide streets and a partly pedestrianized heart. Great cafes, restaurants and museums compete for attention, while Europe's northernmost Gothic cathedral doesn't need to try. Fishing boats putter around the Harbor, gulls wheel and screech overhead, and beyond the city's outskirts there's a wealth of wilderness to explore.

A Little Bit of History:

Trondheim is one of Norway’s most important historic cities. The history of this city is like reading from the Norse Sagas. It was inhabited during the Viking Age and was chosen as the place where the Vikings, who were raised in England under Catholicism, would land in an attempt to Christianize the pagan Norwegians. The history of Trondheim begins thousands of years ago. People have lived here since the BCs, as evidenced by the 300+ rock carvings that have been found in the area. They depict not just the animals of the region (elk, red deer, halibut, salmon), but also show people gathering, hunting and fishing. Trondheim was officially founded in the year 997 AD by Olav Tryggvason (960s-1000), a Viking King who had returned from England to Christianize Norway. While it was founded at the end of the Viking Age, it’s still associated with the Vikings and was the religious center of northern Europe during the Middle Ages. With its characteristic mansions and harbor houses, Trondheim was an important hub for North Atlantic trade. For centuries, it was the northernmost mercantile city in Europe.

Whether you come for the food, art, history, music, or nature, you’ll find inspiration here to explore what this historical and cultural gem has to offer, especially during summer months. Trondheim is beautiful in the summer and there’s something for everyone to do. So, whether you’re a flavor-loving foodie or an unabashed basement-dweller, you’ll have plenty to keep you interested and exploring.

Trondheim’s unique food culture received international recognition when it was chosen as the European Region of Gastronomy in 2022. In the summer of 2023, the biggest food and drink events in the city are Trondelag Food Festival and Trondheim Brewery Festival, both will be held alongside each other August 3-5. Over 250,000 people are expected to enjoy the vast array of flavors of the more than 200 local food producers and 30 craft breweries. Don’t let these festivals pass you by, but should these dates not work for you, there are plenty of tasty experiences to be had in the city throughout the summer.

Olavsfest is one of the highlights of the cultural year in Trondheim as tens of thousands gather to experience a week full of concerts, art exhibitions, and talks on a wide range of topics. Trondheim’s great museums are also open all summer. K-U-K, Kunstall Trondheim, and Trondheim Kunstmuseum are a true joy to visit for anyone with an interest in art.



You don’t have to travel far for adventurous outdoor activities in Trondheim. You can sail down the Nidelva or feel the wind in your hair as you speed across the fjord in a RIB. How about taking a dip in the Trondheim Fjord? Only a short bus ride from the city center, are amazing hikes in Bymarka and don’t forget to take a photo at the picturesque pit stop at Gronlia cabin. Inside the city, give thought to the Hoyt & Lavt Climbing Park where the whole family can climb and zipline through the treetops – always a popular destination.



If the harsh light of the Midnight Sun is getting too much, seek refuge in Trondheim’s fascinating basements. Various vendors offer tours of the cathedral's mysterious crypts which you must add to your sightseeing lists. K-U-K has art exhibition spaces hidden underneath the surface and admission is free.

Trondheim’s city center is filled with restaurants where you can enjoy a drink in the sun and great shops with everything from high-end boutiques to thrift shops full of treasures. Bakklandet is also a particularly wonderful place for a leisurely stroll among cute little cafés, old wooden houses, and beautiful artisanal shops full of local crafts. The wonderful thing about Trondheim is you can walk between all the major spots, whether it’s shops, markets, or museums, so make the most of it!



It is easy to ride in and around Trondheim city center by bus. It is not possible to pay for the ticket inside the bus, you will have to use either the pay stations or download the app. In the app you will be able to buy a 24-hour ticket or a 7-day ticket. Tickets are also available at the Narvesen-kiosk located in the city center. All buses have low entrances and ramps for easy boarding with wheelchairs and strollers. There are designated areas for both located near the driver. Buses, trams, and boats are designed with good contrasts for people with reduced vision.

My personal favorite mode of transportation here is “Grakallbanen” - the northernmost tram line in the world and is one of Trondheim’s tourist attractions. The tram starts at St. Olavs Street in the city center and ends up in the forest of Lian. Along the way you will get scenic views over the city. At Lian there are great opportunities for swimming in the lake.

A Side Note: Trondheim does have a HOHO sightseeing bus but due to the recent COVID pandemic, these tours are halted until 2024.



I arrived at a tiny location early in the morning, when thick mists covered the mountain tops, a chilly wind was blowing, and rain was in the forecast – this is Andalsnes – often referred to as an “alp village by the fjord” (Romadalsfjord) beneath towering mountains, in one of Norway’s most scenic areas at the mouth of the Rauma River. This privileged location has given Andalsnes a legitimate claim to being “Norway’s mountaineering capital”. The town is a transport hub with the final stop on the Rauma Railway and a harbor for cruise ships that brings in a significant volume of visitors annually.

With impressive mountains like Romsdalshornet, Trolltindan and Vengetindan vying for attention, Andalsnes is a perfect starting point for anything from light mountain hiking to summit hikes to spectacular vantage points. You can also enjoy long treks with truly memorable views of the Romsdalsfjella mountain ridge. This alpine gem has the ambition to be Norway’s #1 destination for mountain sports and there are significant investments in having a wide range of activities to offer those visiting to get active in nature, year-round. The proximity to the fjord is an added bonus allowing visitors to combine activities at sea level and in the mountains according to their interests and fitness level. Both experienced mountaineers and mountain rookies can have a great time here! Naturally, mountain climbing is in focus, and before joining in on a Via Ferrata or other climbing challenges, test yourself on the wall at the Norwegian Mountaineering Center. You can also get to experience a close encounter with nature at sea level when taking a stand-up paddle (SUP) on the Istra River.

Since the opening of the Rauma Railway in 1924, Andalsnes has been the center of the inner Romsdal region, and since the 1880’s, the place has been a tourist destination as cruise ships started docking here. Despite being admired by tourists for almost 150 years, Norway’s mountaineering capital is still somewhat off the beaten path. If your goal is to explore spectacular nature with plenty of space to roam, this spectacular village continues to be a stellar alternative.

Being such a small place, most “things to do” are centered in and around the downtown area at the harbor pier. My favorite immediately became the Romsdal Gondola, from its base station next to the pier, to the mountain station some 2,297’ above sea level on Mount Nesaksla. This shortcut to fantastic fjord and mountain views is an electric cable car, Norway’s first gondola built on sustainability principles, taking you 5,508’ from the fjord to the summit, which towers over the town. The entire journey itself takes about 10 minutes. Tickets can be purchased online or at the Romsdalen Gondola Station. Adults 360 NOK, Children (ages 6-17) 210 NOK and under 5 are free.

In summer months, hiking along Romsdalseggen gives an opportunity to celebrate the hike’s end with a great meal and a beer at Eggen Restaurant, all with a fjord views, before taking the gondola back down to Andalsnes. However, to save both knees and time, how about a leisurely swim in the fjord? This can be done from the floating pier at the center of town, only a short distance from the Mountaineering Center.

Next to the Cable Car is the Rauma Railway Line – a scenic single track train route of 71-miles through picturesque mountains, over imposing bridges and past the tallest rockface in Europe (the Trollveggen) which towers some 3,281’ above the track. It runs between Andalsnes and Dombas – one of the shortest rail journeys in Norway (1 hour and 40 minutes) - and offers amazing scenery from both sides of the rail carriages. The train slows down as it passes the most spectacular scenery for a photo stop at the famous Kylling Bridge, offering glimpses of the nearby Vermafossen Waterfall. During the trip, you will pass a number of natural attractions, and these will be mentioned over loudspeakers, however, consider downloading a free audio guide from Voice of Norway to your mobile phone. The guide provides real-time storytelling and facts as the train passes the various points of interest. Roundtrip tickets start at approximately $21 – senior prices are also available – with 4 daily train departures.

Fun Facts: part of a scene in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince was shot on the Rauma Railway, in Bjorli. It's the only scene in the film that was shot outside the UK. The world-famous Mission Impossible movie chose the Rauma Railway as one of its locations. They even blew up the Kylling Bridge in the movie!

And so, my Norwegian adventure comes to an end. Weather has cooperated almost every step of the way, with brilliant sunshine, blue skies, and mild breezes and certainly warmer than I expected. Take any opportunity to explore this country's unique landscape which will never fail to take your breath away.

---

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Fabulous Norway!
What an amazing part of the world and I loved your blog. We are going in March and your blog has gotten me very excited.