Norway - Day 5, Bergen to Flam

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This was the time I was most looking forward to: heading to Flam. I enjoyed my early breakfast, checked out and paid my car parking fees (yikes!) before heading back out of town. This time, I was heading towards Flam, on the E16. First though, I drove along the same road I did two days previously. Nothing much exciting here as it is either city or surburbia. It was a pleasant drive to Voss, about 90 minutes, and here at this tunnel is where the road went to the north and split away from my previous route. So, new territory!

My first destination was drive up Route 13 to head to another stave church. I was a bit worried the road would be closed, due to the snow which was clearly increasing. It was a beautiful snow covered landscape and I passed another ski center, this one looked to be in use. I drove up switchbacks to a pass - the views were already amazing. Once you got to the top and continued, it was just pure white. However, unlike a few days before, the sun was out and the sky was blue, so it was just beautiful, peaceful and pristine. I noted a lot of people out and about and realized may of them must have come up here on their own to do some cross country skiing, maybe snow-shoeing. There were adorable little cabins that were clearly not in use at this time, but they just looked perfect against the white backdrop. Finally, I got to the other side of the pass and had a nice view of the valley below and fjord beyond. Another set of switchbacks, crossing the snow line and into farms and greenery. I still cannot get over the natural beauty of this country.

Before seeing my stave church, I saw the Hove Stone Church to my right and decided to try that one first. Even though it was not on my list, it was clearly an incredible, old structure. Indeed, it dates back to about 1170, most likely originally a family chapel, but now a local church. The stone structure was amazing even though I did not get to go inside. It was in danger of being torn down in the late 19th century, but was bought and restored by Peter Andreas Blix, who you will hear more of later. He is responsible for the restoration of the stave churches in this area and starting the movement to save them. He owned Hove stone church until his death and is buried beneath the floor.

Next, I moved to the Hopperstad Stave church, which was on my original list. It is huge and grand, also restored by Peter Blix. On the way between the two, I saw the existing church which was built in the 19th century and replaced these two. There was not much left of Hopperstad, but Peter Blix also was responsible for restoring this one, using a vision of what he believed the stave churches originally looked like, and probably used designs of others such as Borgund for inspiration. Though Hopperstad is one of the most heavily restored of all the churches, it is the only one that still has the original narrow chancel - though it was also closed like all the others and I only got to view the exterior. It is still beautiful and has an amazing backdrop - I could see it from the road above. Not just the church itself, but the village at the end of this valley sitting on the fjord just seems to be iconic of what you picture of traditional Norway.

The ride back over the pass was even better than when I drove up as I knew what to expect. Fom Route 13 to E16, I continued on, passing additional scenic quick stops, such as waterfalls, churches, and snow-covered landscapes. I had initially hoped to do a short steep hike to Rimstigen, but when I approached the road leading to the trail head, I was blocked by extensive construction, so this was not gonna happen. This is also the other end of the main fjord that connects to Flam area and generally tourist boats travel from there to here where you can disembark and visit the Viking village - also closed. Next stop for me then was the smallest church in use in Norway, Undredal. This stave church dates from the late 12th century and has been in continuous use with items added over the years. Even though I did not get to visit the interior, I loved the view with it perched above the small village and fjord. The ride along the canyon was also peaceful.

So, around 4pm, I made it to nearby Flam, about which I was the most excited!

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Comments

[Ake Och Emma]

This is useful information for me
We are planning to visit this par tof Norway in August. You are giving me lots of useful information here. I will try to squeeze some of these places in on our trip. Btw, I have a bit of a soft spot for stave churches. /Ake

[lexispence10]

Beautiful area
This whole area is amazing, you won't be disappointed whatever route you choose. My options were a bit limited due to the winter season - most things / roads do not open until mid-May. Feel free to message me if you have any requests for suggestions. :) The stave churches were all incredible in the most impressive locations

[D MJ Binkley]

Scenic Norway
We hope to go to Norway in the next couple of years. You've given us some great ideas.