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Published: July 26th 2023
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On our return from Theth we scooted over the border into Montenegro to a seaside resort south of Ulcinj and found ourselves on a wide, rather muddy beach, by Australian standards, under trees by the Green Bar where we had learnt from Park4night that Nikolas would be there to welcome us! His rather scruffy, unpretentious bar gave us a good meal of squid, chips and salad, we had a swim and a rather rousing night as the hotel entertainment next door went on until the wee hours. Great the singer had a good voice or it would have been purgatory!
We decided to have a coffee at the bar the next morning but they announced their machine was broken so Graeme kindheartedly offered to make all the staff and ourselves a cup of coffee in Gino! They even thought they might have to pay but G assured them this was not necessary after teasingly saying 20 Euros!
We came off the highway trying to find a lunchspot on the coast but it was tricky. We finally ended up zeroing in on Coco Beach Bar but parking was awkward. A kindly security guard said we could park for an hour
or two in what we thought was private parking. A refreshing swim and drink later we came back to find ourselves almost totally parked in. We stopped a few cars from hemming us in even further and Graeme managed to back Gino out through a space I was sure was much too narrow. With a millimetre to spare on either side we left behind a few irate motorists as they had had to wait during the delicate manouvre. I wiped the sweat off my brow; yet again, it was hot, I did mention that, didn't I?
Montenegro isn't large and if you are zipping up the coast, as we did, it certainly didn't take long to find ourselves close to Bay of Kotor. We had passed some spectacular scenery and also some terribly busy beach towns, the like of which I did not wish to visit, Budva in particular! We likened it to the Gold Coast in Queensland. Unfettered development at the expense of everything else.
We didn't have time or inclination to head further inland but decided to head straight for Kotor. We struck lucky. A parking spot for overnight right on the town beach with the
old town and walls of Kotor rising up to the side of us as we swam and cooled down. We had to share the view with a massive cruise ship, one we had seen last year in Norway! They really are obscene. Sorry to those who like cruising but really, talk about a blot on the landscape. Yes. It was hot. We waited until the cool of the evening, well, the evening anyway, to head through the town walls and meander through the narrow cobbled streets, taking in the open churches and shrines.
I had gleefully found a walking trail in my guide book but of course forgot to take it with me so we wandered aimlessly, sorry Lesley. A wonderful gelato and many photos later we ambled back to Gino. A swim before bed and we were set up!
We decided to arise earlier than we had been doing and try to walk up the old town walls before the sun beat down on them. The perimeter around the bay side was interesting as you could see into all the backs of houses, establishments and squares and it was easy! Hiking up the steep, somewhat slippy marble
steps and cobblestones was not so easy but we did manage to miss the crowds, seen arriving on tour buses, and escape the heat as the sun was just beginning to edge over the mountain by the time we made our way down. Confession. We did not make it all the way to the top! Morning coffee beckoned. Unfortunately it was another packet cappucino experience, but the ambience was wonderful! We circumnavigated the bay as we left. Spectacular scenery. Certainly worth a little more time to explore. Next stop Croatia!
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