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Published: November 2nd 2008
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The taxi driver in Tirana have family in Boston and have visited 3 times before so we had a good conversation about life in his country and how he still have no ambition to live with his parents in America, he hopes Obama wins. The Shkodra bus took a good 2 hours including delays due to bad traffic accident. When I arrived in Shkodra, taxi drivers immediately took notice of me and offering to take me to Ulcinj in Montenegro from 20 to 30 Euros, I pretended to be sight seeing and said will be back i have to think it over, these guys told me no bus goes to Ulcinj from Shkodra, i should have known better, i arrived at 230ish pm and the bus according to Ilir from Tirana backpackers, it leaves around 3pm, I could not see a bus and no porper station just got dropped off at the roundabout close to a big mosque, so i decided to go in the Rozafa Hotel and ask the receptionist guy and he said he does not know about buses to Montenegro, doesnt it leave just outside your hotel according to guidebooks, he said zes but i dont know if
they still run, for sure we worked in cahoots with the taxi drivers, as one taxi guy was there hanging out in the corridor as well, fraking pain in the neck these taxi drivers. Anyway somehow i got convinced there was no bus i should have waited for 3pm and see what happens before i committed to a taxi ride, but that what happens, off i go on a taxi to Ulcinj, Montenegro, for 20 Euros, the driver said it is ok to pay in Albanian dibdobs. Smooth sailing at the border, raining pretty hard as well, nice scenery. After we gone through the border and into Montenegro, the driver in Italian was asking me for 5 more Euros for tourist tax, for bringing me into the country, i havent a clue if it was true.
I pretended i did not understand him even if he explained it to me a number of times, i just ignored him, an hour or so later i arrived at the bus station in Ulcinj, he aske for the money again and I said the guidebooks did not mention any border fee, nor my fellow travellers whom i met along the way so
i just walked off and bid him Ciao. Went inside the bus station and checked the departure times for different towns for tomorrow, i noticed there was a bus for Shkodra at 6am but nothing in the afternoon, so mabe just one bus leaves when it is out of season, hmmm.
Hired a cab to Mediteran Hotel, wanted to pamper myself tonight but the rate is 34 euros, i misunderstood the ad in the internet, 17 per person but i was alone so have to pay full. The reception lady took pity on me and said try apartments around, they are up on the hill and noticed a few Sobe ads so i walked for a bit but this town seems deserted, nothing is going on, and i knock on a number of apartments no answer or if any not renting at this time, frustrated as it is getting dark i went back to the hotel and said i will take the room as i have no choice, she called one apartent one last time for me but busy so she gave me the key and off i went to my room, quite nice, cable tv, hot showers large
double bed etc. This country is proving to be quite expensive for a solo backpacker, they have no hostels here, the only one in Budva is closed, the Hippo hostel! Crap really as i plan to stay longer here i may rush to Bosnia.
Had dinner at Marinero restaurant on the waterfront near the old town which is an easy access from the hotle just walk down hil, I ordered calamari and it was gorgeous! whole squids lightle battered in olive oil and few herbs and tomatoes, just what i needed! for 8 Euros plus beer a bargain! Walked back to the hotel and bed.
Started the day sunny then started to drizzle as I walk downton to chck out the city, went up the tower, nothing there but restaurants, this city is boring, nothing really interesting, Ulcinj is busy only in the summer coz of the beaches other than that skip it!, it rained so hard i have to wait it out next to a bank under the shade, i think Opportunity bank or something, not so really as i asked if they cash TCs and yes they do but you have to wait for 1 month
before they give you the cash!
Hurried back to Mediteran hotel and called a taxi for the bus station. it was a minibus that left on time 12.45pm, it took about an hour and a half to get to Budva, along the way we went past Sveti Stefan and the view of the hotel in an island was impressive so i will make sure i come back here on a day trip. Arriving at the bus station in Budva i was approached by a lady name Ljubica and asked me if i was looking for a room, her place is 5 minutes from the station for 10 euros a night, i agreed to it after i saw her place, quite small but i have a big bed to myself! She said 2 American girls are staying there too. She gave me instructions on how to get around town and gave me her address and phone number in case i get lost, call her and she will pick me up from anywhere in town, how nice of her.
Walked around town, started to drizzle and quite a bit of wind as well. made it to the old town hardly
ULCINJ
MARINERO RESTAURANT anything going there, quite glum due to the weather, A lot of bars within the town are closed because it is quite season, so quite boring. i head back to the homestay after having pizza at one of the waterfront restaurant lining the shorefront of the old town.
I was looking for an internet but cant find one and it started to pour down heavily, i got soaked to the bone! Went back bought my 1.5 liter beer and drunk myself to sleep!
Next day is a very sunny day! Stopped at the bus station to check out schedules for Kotor, it leaves evry half hour. I had breakfast there of schnitzel sandwich for 2 Euros, quite cheap, it was huge, could not finish it so i saved it for later. Went back to the old town, like yesterday, hardly anyone there, you can see how bored the sales ladies in different shops, they gossip and chain smoke out of boredom, hardly any tourist. There was a mass service in one of the churches so i went in and observed, the priest was singing every word. Waited almost an hour for the Citadel to open, by 10am i gave
up and decided to head to Sveti Stefan. The bus stop is just a couple minutes walk from the old town next to a parking lot. It leaves every half hour.
At Sveti Stefan, we got dropped off at the stairs where you can get down towards the beach and into the hotel in the island, unfortunately it was closed for the season so i just took lots of photos. Walked on the beach but water was cold and also did not bring my swimming shorts. i found a short trail behind the beach and so i walked up it and it lead to the other side where ther is a private beach,sat in one of the becnhes and had my lunch. Walked around some more and when i got bored went back to Budva.
At Budva, went back to the old town and the Citadel was open, 2 euoros entrance fee and took my time trying to get better angle shots of the old town from the tower. I asked the ticket guy if it is alright if i come back later in the afternoon for better photos, and he said ok. had my 2nd lunch! Calamari
again! not as good as in Ulcinj though. On the menu of the restaurant there is this statue of a dancer or something perched on a rock, after lunch i looked for it and found it behind the Ayala hotel where ther is also a trail towards another beach. no wonder in the summer this place is busy, lots of beahces all around. Not a lot of people in the beach, it was a warm day but the water is a bit cold.
Off to Kotor the next day.
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