...And Latvia Makes Three

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Latvia: 25th - 29th July 2009

It's not easy being Latvian. Sandwiched between Lithuania and Estonia with Mother Russia looking on disapprovingly, Latvians can be forgiven for having “middle child syndrome.” Worse still, if you're Latvian, then you are also the minority in your own capital, Riga, where ethnic Russians make up the largest demographic group. But, being second in line (regardless of whether you're counting north to south or south to north) can be a good thing for travelers who just want to relax and enjoy your city.

Actually, our trip to Riga started with a few bumps. We found a nice apartment, and the owner, Nina, said her friend, Lena, would let us in since she, Nina, was on holiday. But unfortunately, Nina hadn't seen a typo in the number she gave us for Lena, and instead we kept calling some poor old man saying “Lena? Lena?” leaving us between a rock and a hard place, especially since Nina turned her ringa off.

So what do two weary travelers do when homeless with credit cards all too easily at hand? Why, there could be but one course of action: find the nicest hotel in town to take the edge off the situation. Mind you, it's Latvia, so we're still pretty much within budget no matter where we stay. We chose a mansion built by a former industrialist, and later owned by a publishing power couple which has been recently converted to a hotel (and casino, of course!): The Europa Royale. The staff was all too eager to have our business given the current state of the travel industry, so we zipped into the courtyard and checked in for the night.

Later, whilst enjoying a digestive menu of local fare in the Old Town, Nina surfaced. Which is good, because her apartment is frankly one of the nicest abodes we've stayed in, within a city anyway. A new apartment in a new building less than a mile from the Old Town, with covered, secure parking. Perfect!

Riga is known to some as the “Paris of the North.” It's a stretch, but a middle child needs to reinforce the ego at times...it's only healthy. In reality, the only similarities I can see with Paris are symmetry within the Old Town with major avenues defining areas and a few grand landmarks. Also, Riga is known for a style of architecture known as Art Nouveau (a.k.a. Jugendstil, or “youth style”) which (to this non-artist) incorporates dramatic mythological and anthropomorphic elements into a facade. We've taken a few pictures so you can see, but think of the building in Ghostbusters II, and you'll be close. The Art Nouveau style is everywhere, and in this way, there is also a symmetry to the architecture in town, which might make one think of Paris as well.

And, as we did in Lithuania, we went to see the most prominent castles in Sigulda (we're Americans...we can't resist!). We were able to cycle around and see all 3 in about 2 hours. But we are starting to catch on that there is only one Versailles, only one Hermitage, etc. The rest are impressive to a degree, but are probably better suited for school groups, families, and Americans who aren't yet castled out.

In reality, the most interesting aspects of Latvia are the beautiful countryside, their own individual interpretation of nationhood, and (on the flip side) their unique way of coping and resisting a string of nasty conquerors. Tourists don't flock here, and for that reason, you can still see the genuine article.

NB: quoted descriptions in photos courtesy of Lonely Planet

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Photos

Smilsu iela 8
"A large maske of a melancholic woman with her eyes shut".

Elizabetes iela 10b
"the enormous sullen heads squished at the top of the facade"

The 3 Heads on Alberta iela 4
"If you look carefully, you'll see a nest of snakes slithering around their heads, evoking Medusa. All six eyes seem transfixed on some unseen horror, but only two of the faces are screaming in shock and fear".

Riga Graduate School of Law at Alberta iela 13
Hard to see, but the description is, "Peacocks, tangled shrubs and bare-breasted heroines abound while cheery pastoral scenes are depicted in relief on Erykay Badu-like turbans atop the giant yawning masks".

Stockholm School of Ecomonics at Strelnieku iela 4a
"filled in with sumptuous blue brick, and framed by garland-wielding goddesses".

Elizabetes iela 33
"muscular men balancing stacks of Corinthian columns on their shoulders".

more art nouveau
looks like the nazi eagle but is an owl

Russian Orthodox Cathedral
This picture doesn't do justice. It was absolutely stunning.

Teatra iela 9
Italian Embassy: "facades pantheon of Greek figures - two ragged older men (Promethueus pershaps) frantically clutch their neck while supporting the convoluted wrought-iron balcony above".

Smilsu iela 2
"The exterior features a variety of hybrid creatures including intertwining vines that morph, like a mermaid's tail".

Cat House
"According to the legend, the owner was rejected from the local Merchant's Guild across the street, and exacted revenge by placing a black cat on the top of his turret with its tail raised towards the esteemed Great Guild Hall".

Sigulda Castle 3
Castle 2 didn't make the cut. There was nothing left of it.

Comments

[Daddy]

Great photography by Rayma. I didn' know about this talent. The moquitoes probably kept the Russians out of Estonia.