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Published: December 1st 2009
Toto
My favorite dog in Venice, Toto is a Cirneco dell'Etna, a breed closely related to the Pharaoh hound. He "works" at a glass art gallery down the street from our house. Italians love children. This was presented as undisputed fact before we came here, and in general it seems true, particularly where it concerns babies.
I present, as example, an experience on the vaporetto (water bus) the other day. Ari and I were sitting behind a thirty-something couple. The woman cradled a baby, completely swaddled in a pink crocheted blanket. They were approached by a friend who proceeded to peek beneath the blanket and coo softly. The three adults did that sort of silly slobbering that is done with a baby: making funny faces, grabbing little fingers and toes and commenting to one another over the preciousness of the little bundle of love. The friend disembarked first, and on his way out, turned and waved to the baby, making one of those stupid miniature "bye-byes" up close to the eyes, hand curled up by the temple; the parents performed the same silly wave back, looking back and forth from their friend to their little one. Friend gone, the couple continued to gaze down lovingly at the baby, and at one another: a perfect triangle of familial affection.
Ari and I both love babies and so we leaned over
Cane
This puppy hangs out on the Zattere, near the water. He plays tag with the bar dog. the seat to get a good peek. We found ourselves looking into the face of a four or five month-old chihuahua.
Now, before you think this an anomaly, I assure you that we have seen dogs in baby carriages, in strollers, in arms (and blankets), in purses, in backpacks, and tucked into coats. Dogs are the new children and not for nothing. With the low, low birth rate in all of Italy, and the flight of many young families from Venice (high rents, low mobility), it seems that Venetians are particularly starved for someone to spoil.
And the great thing about dogs? They can go everywhere. There are many dogs here who go to work with their owners. Dogs spend their days in bars, cafes, gift shops, art galleries, gelato kiosks, sundry stores and produce stands. You can't do that with a kid. These dogs become accustomed to crowds and strangers and other dogs. They follow commands, rarely bark, don't wander off and hide--more than we can say for kids or cats.
And what about cats? Cats used to rule the island, but there are very few now, in contrast to much of Italy. At some point,
Cane at work
This guy (yes, a male) has a little bed, dish and toys at this waterfront bar, where his mistress works and he hangs out all day. there was a great number of strays, which can be a problem on a small island. Apparently these stray cats were rounded up and taken to the island of Malamocca, where they are looked after at a cat sanctuary. This has led to a great increase of the rat population here in Venice.
Combine the dearth of felines with a dearth of children, and in come the dogs--a lot of them. There are so very many dogs here, that the calles of Venice now have a new menace: poop. While it is legally required that owners pick up their pets' waste, and I see many of them do so, there are always those dog owners who pretend that their little poopsie can do no poop. There is also the problem of frequent rain and lots of water. Without specific elaboration, I will simply say that I keep an eye on the ground while walking.
So just how doggone crazy are the Venetians about their cani? Here's a story. A Venetian we know had a classical music-loving neighbor with a dog she adored. Every day this neighbor, after blasting some opera, took her little dog out and fussed
Floral
This girl works at a mask shop, and changes her outfits often. over him, treating him as tenderly as her own child. She was never seen without her pet.
Some time passed, and the neighbor was missed around the neighborhood. When she resurfaced, it was without her constant companion. Where is your dog? she was asked. Dead, she replied, clearly heartbroken. However, she had a surprising secret. So much did she love her pet that she had him interred in San Michele, the cemetary island just to the north. Now, it isn't possible for your average citizen (or dog) to be buried on San Michele--this island is reserved only for the most prominent of citizens: statesmen and poets and artists are laid to rest here. Serge Diaghilev, Nobel Prize winner Joseph Brodsky, and Ezra Pound are just of few of San Michele's residents. So how on earth did the neighbor manage this? She confided that she had bribed someone to bury her dog at San Michele. And not just in any old place. Her darling dog was resting eternally right next to the remains of no other than Igor Stravinsky!
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Marian Fortunati
non-member comment
Ya gotta look down
Having dogs all over a city with no grass and all foot traffic traveling along the same basic path, does leave the pedestrian with the problem of wanting to see the city with your eyes traveling over all the beauty yet having to check periodically that one doesn't step in a doggie present. Between the pigeons and the dogs one has to be careful!!