We spent this past weekend in Rome. Rome was not the golden, rosy town I recalled from my honeymoon. It is noisy, dirty, polluted and traffic-infested. It was not lovely or romantic. I was not drifting down streets gently washed by rain, or standing alone in the shaft of light shining through the roof of the Pantheon, or gazing at a lovely sunset as I lounge alongside the Tiber, or standing, practically alone, on the Spanish steps. That was, of course, my honeymoon. Our first day was a bit difficult for the kids in some ways--lots of sightseeing, lots of time
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