Italy 67 - The Scrovegni Chapel, St Anthony, Farfalle and pomodoro, non tocare, no photographs ,egyptian mummies and roman coins

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There are two things that strike terror into my heart. The first reading the words non tocare in Italy. Being a bull in a china shop means I have to be extra careful to not touch and certainly not knock anything over. Being clumsy I have to watch every bit of my body otherwise something gets knocked off a shelf .

The second seeing the picture of a camera with a cross through it . No pictures allowed. We knew that today would be one of those days. Not a non tocare day but a no photographs one. We were heading on the bus for Padova for the day and our date with destiny. A pre-booked ticket for the Scrovegni Chapel.

But I have gone ahead of myself. The night wasn’t quite as quiet as the grave. Our neighbours an elderly Dutch couple kept themselves to themselves. They sat out late under their awning with their candles lit to ward off mosquitoes. On the other side two French tenters. They arrived in a very noisy car. With twin exhausts it appeared either souped up or the engine was knackered. They went out in it and came back about 10. What seemed like the middle of the night Mr Frenchman got in it again and drove the 100 yards to the toilet before driving back. It sounded like an old two stroke motorbike engine phut phuting along. Further up the site a middle aged lady painted her nails. An important function whilst on holiday.

We woke early, showered and were on the Padova bus by 8.18. A good thing as the bus trundled its way through Dola and other small towns before hitting the industrial and rather depressing outskirts of Padova 45 minutes later. A typical Italian city on the outskirts full of commercial units, out of town shops and industrialisation. It took a further quarter of an hour to arrive at the bus depot. We had tickets to pick up, a Padova Card and to be at the Chapel by 11.00 and time was marching on. The walk to the centro took longer than we had expected and was poorly signed. We had to ask a local for directions.

Arriving at the chapel we picked up our cards and ticket and went into the museum. A fantastic space it was like a maze. Roman tombstones, Egyptian mummies and papyrus covered in hieroglyphics. Minoan pottery in its brown and black livery complete with dancing ladies and naked men. The list was endless but unlike the British museum we could take no photographs . Sadly our memories are going to be just that. Faint recollections of roman coins and jewellery, fabrics from Egyptian tombs and an art gallery full of the history of art from its beginnings in the 12^th century right up to the 20^th. Veronese, Tintoretto to name but a few. How we would have loved to have taken photos for our Albelli book. Memories fade but photos don’t.

Coffee time in the small café, an espresso, a cappuccino and a small pastry. These seem to be the staple diet in a coffee house to eat with your coffee. Small pastry boat shapes full of custard, tiny doughnut balls full of cream and boat shapes full of nut puree and loaded with hazlenuts on top. And then on to small shop. If we couldn’t take photos then the next best thing would have to be a couple of postcards which we would scan when we got back to Suzy for the blog. They didn’t turn out well sadly.

Our time came round to go into the chapel. This is where you have to be careful. Our ticket was for 11 and if we missed our slot hard luck we would have to buy another one. It is not possible to miss your slot and go in later. You get one bite of the cherry and if you get it wrong well that is your own fault. We walked up the the chapel entrance and sat and waited. The doors were closed and a barrier was across . We could see the tour in front of us sitting and watching the TV screen which told them all about the building of the chapel and the frescoes that they would see . At exactly 11 the door opened and the barrier was lifted. The guy in there beckoned us in and took our tickets. We sat and at 11.05 the doors closed and we were locked in an air conditioned room that would pressurise the air and clean it. Any nasties we brought in would be destroyed in the process. The film was interesting and the next 15 minutes went by quickly as we read about the Scrovegnis and the reasons why they built the chapel and about Giotto who painted it. Consecrated in 1305 it was dedicated to Santa Maria della Carita. It was commissioned by Enrico Scrovegni possibly to be used as a funerary chapel and as a penitence for his and his fathers trade in usury. The Paduans could attend the church but did not mix with the family. Giotto began the work on the frescoes and it took two years for them to be completed. Entering the barrel vaulted building it seemed quite small compared to what you could see from outside. The end wall badly damaged due to restoration work and salt bloom told the story of the Last Judgement with the Devil catching and devouring the sinful. A fat blob of a creature with writhing humans in his hands and his mouth. The fires of hell licked round the dead in purgatory. Opposite is a fresco of God despatching an angel to earth.

There are wooden worm eaten pews each with the remnants of what must have been beautiful painted decorations. And above three layers of paintings, We could not take photos although one guy did much to the chagrin of the guy who was showing us round. He was promptly told to stop. O to have taken photos of the starry sky which is reminiscent of the mosaics we saw in Ravenna. Each inch of the walls was filled with paintings of allegories faith hope charity or mock marble The stories start with Joachim and Anna, the nativity of Mary and the bathing of the infant Jesus, the presentation of Mary at the temple, the usual adoration of the Magi, the wedding at Cana and the throwing out of the money lenders from the temple. Rather apt given the way the Scrovegni made their money. The betrayal of Jesus and the Last Supper were portrayed , the Crucifixion scenes and his ascension into heaven. The whole of the life of Jesus was there in glorious colour. Was it worth our 15 minutes – yes it was much better than the Sistine Chapel and that is saying something. The 15 minutes went by quickly. There was so much to see and take in. The scenes went on and on. The buzzer went and the doors opened and we were ushered out sadly our 15 minutes over in a flash. Was it better than the Sistine Chapel? Yes we thought so but that is only a matter of opinion.

From here we walked to the main square the Piazza Herbe where the market was in full swing. Stalls with clothes, scarfs, shoes , bracelets and vegetables and fruit. We ate dinner a mixed salad and Farfala with tomato before moving on to the astrological clock. A lovely thing quite dainty with its ring of astrological signs painted in gold on the palest of blue faces. The 24 hour clock showing its one hand at almost 1 pm. In each corner a circle, the first showed the date the 9^th, the second the month September. Above these a circle with the time 12 and on the other side 25 mins. It was stunning.,

We walked down to the river with its statues along its bridges . And finally the Duomo which was closed and the Baptistry. Again and interesting building with frescoes not quite equal to Giottos but simple and stunning. I don’t know how interesting a building the duomo would have been as we would have had to wait until 6 until it opened again. It was too hot for any waiting. The space in the Baptistry though was interesting. 3 euros each entry but we got in free with our Padova Card. Did we get in everything we wanted to see probably not but it didn’t seem to matter. Again memories and not a photograph allowed.

On our way back to the bus we came across St Anthonys church. Similar to St Marks in Venice with its eastern styled cupolas it as a pretty impressive building. A lovely building set in a large square . No photos sadly. We couldn’t even sneak one as we walked round. Drat and double drat. The high ceilings were beautifully decorated and painted and the side chapels were either simple Gothic which we loved or Baroque. Even the Baroque wasn’t that over the top. One chapel held the remains and relics of St Anthony was very ornate and the devout were sitting venerating the saint and his relics. . Another was full of silver reliquary. A simple and stunning cloister completed the scene. Did we miss not seeing the Duomo – no this church was stunning enough to make up for it.

The temperature by now had risen to 35 degrees. Our hair was sticking to us and beads of sweat were rolling down our backs. It was a long walk to the bus station. And an equally long and hot drive home back to our campsite. And those damn mozzies. Legs covered with nasty bites.

Our Dutch neighbours had moved on. We were joined by a young English couple who came over to borrow our bottle opener. They had just heard me falling out with two French women who let their dogs do their business on the path and did not clear it up. Conversation might have been stilted but I think they understood chien crap and floor – pick it up mimed with much arm waving. Perhaps they thought me manic but I hate people who let their dogs foul the street and cannot be bothered to clear it up. Worse still as these did – deny it was their creatures that did it. I guess though a nation who can wee up the hedge rather than use the toilet would be perfectly happy to leave the mess on the path for others to walk in. Grumble over.

We settled in to a red wine or two sitting outside. There are more English here tonight. We have paid up our four nights fee and plan to head off early in the morning. Back north to Bassano and around that area before returning back tomorrow night to another campsite in Venice. This one boasts a better restaurant and an indoor heated swimming pool.

What is the plan ? Well a bit of chess, a war memorial and a taste of the local firewater Grappa.

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