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Published: March 23rd 2010
Thursday 11th March - Saturday 13th March
(Luscious Lil)
Leaving Avola we travelled up into the mountains towards the ancient city of Noto only to be thwarted 5km away by a sign stating no 3.5t, or vehicles over a 2.5m, we lost out on both accounts. We had a brief discussion about whether to leave the ‘magic bus’ and cycle in, but as it was an isolated spot we didn’t fancy returning to an empty van! So we pushed on towards our next planned stop.
Travelling in the interior of Sicily is a very different experience to the coast, the interior of the island is beautiful and apart from large towns that appear from nowhere it is sparsely populated. This is refreshingly different from the coast which has been disappointing in its scruffiness.
The down side of Sicily and Italy is the problem of rubbish, we were told before we left that Italy has a problem with refuse and it was connected with disputes between the Mafia and the local authority, we have not been able to disprove this theory, however it is evident that there is a severe problem. Piles of rubbish greet the visitor at every road junction
Sabbia D'or
Campsite near Avolaor bin; some campsites offer recycling facilities but in all honesty I don’t believe that the rubbish is recycled in any way shape or form. This has spoilt our perception of Italy and Sicily, leaving us with an overriding impression of scruffy, dirty places. This culminated in a disappointing arrival at Piazza Armerina which was piled high in rubbish!
We left as soon as we arrived, after trying to find a Stellplatz (camperstop) that was shown on our map/spreadsheet, but didn’t exist. We followed our inadequate maps and Sat Nav down ever decreasing tiny streets and back out into the countryside to Scavi di Casale, (Gps.N37. 3683150/E14.3340040) which is a Roman Villa we had found out about from a British couple we met at our previous stop. They had informed us of some well worth seeing mosaics and a free wild camp at a neighbouring villa. However all these things have a price! Ours was a very disturbed nights sleep as every dog into the vicinity barked all night at the slightest sound, in fact they set each other off constantly. So awaking tired we visited the villa whose car park we were camped in. It was a private collection
Villa Casale
Roman mosaic floor of curios in a fine example of a restored 18th century villa.
The main event of the day were the mosaics at Scavi di Casale which if you look at the pictures you will see were pretty amazing and almost entire, although we were unsure how much restoration had taken place and the majority of the site was still in the process of restoration. So we now have conclusive proof that the bikini was not an invention of the sixties, but was in fact a Roman fashion statement!
We left suitably impressed and drove off through some more beautiful countryside. Unluckily the road we were travelling on had a sizable detour and we ended up miles from where we needed to be. We are now parked up outside Agrigento (Gps. N37. 2911660/E13.5858330) and awaiting for the weather to improve, (Yep almost a week and a half of changeable weather and a fair amount of rain leading to saturated ground, which you don’t want in a camper!).We are off to visit some ruined temples left by various ancient folk. No doubt we will be more informed when we return.
Sunday 14th March (Mothering Sunday)
Laundry and van cleaning day.
Villa casale
Roman mosaic floor Liz was presented with 4 small Ferrero Rocher chocolates for her mothers day treat. I might have cooked dinner as well.
Agrigento - Visit to temples (Monday March 15th)
We followed our guidebooks advice and visited the museum first and then went to the temples site. Pretty impressive stuff if you like Greek temples.
Near Trapani - (Tuesday 16th)
We had an overnight stop in a very quiet campsite the highlight of which was the tree we were parked next to which had a very unusual flower (see photo), if anyone can identify it I would be glad to know.
Marsala - (Wednesday March 17th)
We had lunch in the centre of Marsala and a stroll around the old centre. Originally we parked up on a free camper spot by the port. We had several families of Romany travellers for neighbours and thinking we might get a disturbed night with their comings and goings we moved a few miles on to a beautiful spot by some windmills on the salt pans, which are still being actively worked. Best laid plans and all that because at 1am some local youths decided to use the gravel park we were
Agrigento
Temple Concordia in for a spot of high speed manoeuvres, so not a quiet night after all.
Erice - (Thursday March 18th)
On route to San Vito we braved a typical Sicilian hairpin laden mountain road up to the hilltop village of Erice which was very worthwhile as it still looks and feels like the medieval place it once was. We were in the clouds at about 3000ft so the photos didn’t really do the place justice. We met a couple from Edinburgh whose accents Liz picked up on and followed to a coffee spot for cakes and a chat. There are very few Brits out here so meeting a couple so close to home is always good fun.
San Vito Lo Capo - (Thursday March 18th)
(Luscious Lil)
So finally I have found my piece of paradise, and to boot there was land for sale, so I drank a few sundowners and explained my vision to Alan. - ..We buy the land and build our own house on it, we stay in the ‘magic bus’, while we were doing this. Once the self-build was complete we rent out the property via the internet. We already knew that there were
Species?
Flowering tree cheap flights available from Luton via Trapani with Easyjet. The plot of land was backed by a beautiful beach, the town it self was impeccably clean and tidy, you got the impression that the wealthy from Palermo, spend some time here, although it wasn’t too exclusive. There was plenty to do, there was even a National Park on the doorstep for buddy eco warriors to sell holidays to folk, and ensure that they become eco friendly. There was a working Port and Harbour so a boat would also have been an option. The water was crystal clear and there were places advertising snorkelling and suba. Horse riding was also on offer. There were plenty of restaurants, bars and cafés, all looking relatively smart, but not too expensive.
During the time I was explaining my vision to Alan, someone (probably Alan) took down the for Sale sign, and just like that my dream had gone…
Friday 19th Alan
Whilst at San Vito we took a short hop to the National park of Zingarro. It was a glorious sunny day and with well laid out trails we spent the day taking in the flora and the views. Whilst
Marsala
Working salt pans resting by a refuge bothy after a picnic lunch I was curiously examining the roof collecting water system the hut was using with underground storage etc. I tried the door to see if it was open and in the next moment the biggest snake I have ever seen outside a thick glass plate shot out from underneath the door. Isn’t human instinct wonderful I thought after realising the instantaneous adrenalin rush had launched me 8ft backwards off both feet. To be fair the snake headed in the opposite direction pretty smartly, for the record it was around 4ft long, black and as thick as my wrist at the business end.
We were a bit reluctant to move on from San Vito as the weather was great and it was the best place we have been to, but we want to see as much as possible so we moved down the coast to Isola Delle Femmine which is close enough to get us on a bus into Palermo. Isola is as scruffy a place as we have seen which is a shame because it has a sandy beach (strewn with rubbish) and the working port is full of one man
Erice
View of Trapani boats with a small fish market selling straight off the boats as they come in. It’s as if they are just discovering tourism because the people are all very friendly and with a bit of effort it could be a great spot.
Monday 22nd.
We visited Palermo which is a traffic laden chaotic city. That said, many of the buildings are stunning and the Cathedral and Norman Cappella Palatina which we visited were excellent. It was a pleasant day weather wise for us at around 18-20 degrees but in the middle of summer at +35 degrees with the traffic etc. it must be hell on earth to have to commute in and out of on a daily basis. Once again without even asking the Sicilian public came to our aid when they saw us struggling with where to catch the right bus and so on.
PS Anyone need a for sale sign?
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