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Published: June 17th 2011
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Leaving Lucca
On the path to Vernazza We left the hostel in Lucca early enough to walk to the train station and be plenty early. Our first train, to Viareggio, left and arrived on time. When a train pulled in on the track for our train to La Spezia, just a few minutes early, we hopped on. After we'd traveled a bit, the conductor came by for our tickets and after checking told us we were on the wrong train! It was going to the same place, La Spezia, but it was a higher class train the went from there to Genoa and we had to pay an extra 8 Euros each. Oh well, another live and learn... check train numbers or ask a train employee. When we arrived in La Spezia, found the right track and again a train came in... on the right track but 30 minutes early... I asked. Yes, this was the train that stopped in Corniglia and yes it wouldn't leave for another half hour. So, we got on board early and grabbed three good seats plus room for our luggage. This final part of the trip would only last 15 minutes, but the veiws at each stop were cool. First Riomaggiore, the
On our way to Corniglia
JC and the lizard... how touching... or almost touching first southern town of Cinque Terre (five lands/towns), then Manarola, both of which we pulled into after a very long tunnel. Finally, it was the turn for our town in Cinque Terre, Corniglia, the middlemost town. As I'd already learned, this town was actually on the ocean, but on a high cliff above it. If you want to walk from the train station, there were 378 steps to climb (we did so later, but WITHOUT luggage!), or you can pay 1.50 Euros each to ride a bus up, or you can buy a Cinque Terre Card and ride for free. We bought a two-day Cinque Terre Card and grabbed the bus. The bus stopped right next to the entrance to our hostel, Ostello Corniglia. Unfortunately we were a bit early, as the hostel is closed for cleaning between 1pm and 3pm and it was only 2pm. So we strolled up the main street (read walkway, since no cars are allowed in the main part of the town) and found an interesting-looking sidewalk cafe called Trattoria La Lanterna (the lantern I think) to eat lunch. We all ordered gnochi, Manoli and I the gnochi with pesto sauce and Alexis with pomodoro
Trattoria La Lanterna
Our first view of Vernazza (tomato) sauce. It was quite good, although a bit more expensive than we'd been paying, at 7 Euros each PLUS a 2.50 Euros cover charge. After lunch, we returnedt to the hostel entrance just as the guy was opening up. Our room was like 3 steps from the front desk, with bunkbeds and a rollaway. Not too spacious, but clean and nice enough, with a very nice bathroom with shower. After freshening up, we decided to try the hike from Corniglia to Vernazza, the next town to the north. It was a bit gruelling, reminding Manoli and I of our Inca Trail hike last year in Peru. We finally reached Vernazza, and I'll give Alexis credit, she kept up and did little complaining. After a quick overview of the town and the quaint port, we found a good gelateria and had our daily ration. Before we even reached Vernazza, we'd already agreed we'd be taking the train back, so after our gelato and a bit of shopping, we bought tickets to Corniglia, at 1.60 Euros each, and waited for our train. We found out quickly how to know ahead of time when a train was coming. All of a sudden
Alexis in Corniglia
Alexis with her water and JC with his Coke in Vernazza it turned very cold, then windy and cold, then a couple minutes later a train would arrive, or just whiz by on its way to La Spezia. By the time we got back to Corniglia, it was 7pm or so, so after freshening up, we found a nice little place for a light dinner, Caffe Matteo. Alexis had a foccacia with ham and mozzarella and Manoli and I both had Tuscan Soup. Sort of like minestrone, with delicous bread to dip in it. The total with water and a capuccino (for me of course), was only 17.50 Euros. By the time we finished a leisurely dinner, it was almost 9pm, so back to the hostel for a good night's sleep before tackling more of Cinque Terre tomorrow. Unfortunately, this posting will be late, as I was just informed the Wifi was down and they don't know when it will be fixed.
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JuJu
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This might be your prettiest vacation ever!
Wow! What a beautiful place! This might just be the most beautiful place you guys have gone (judging by the pictures). John, we would love to go with you to Italy next time. I think we could handle the cooking class but probably not the hike to Vernazza.