Rome

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This is the second ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travel experiences.

The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the second) describe our journey from our arrival in London, England (from the 2nd week of May) for an extended holiday primarily in Italy. After 9 days in London, we flew to Rome to begin a short visit to that city before hiring a car and pointing it in the direction of who knows where. If you were to read our previous 'blogs' you'll be aware we tend to take the crazy option - going where the road looks like it might go somewhere interesting / delightful / challenging / etc. That said, we do undertake research before departing Australia to give us some background options of possibilities. But, 'planning' an itinerary from an armchair is fraught with difficulties. Eventually, we'll find our way back to Rome to depart for home.





We've attached a few pics that give you a flavour of our journey, and some 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we 'post' many, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them. As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

To Rome (Monday 23rd May)...

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We've not ever used Heathrow, and were apprehensive at arriving and departing the airport. Except that the Brits don't appreciate us - making us queue with the 'others' - our entry was really smooth and efficient.



Based on media reports about departures at Heathrow, we ensured we arrived well in advance. While one swallow does not a summer make, our entry was (almost unnervingly) swift, efficient, and friendly. Those in control of the Australian 'border farce' goons ought look to Britain rather than America for ideas.



The flight departure was delayed a little, but with a strong tailwind we made up the time. After the efficiency of Heathrow, Rome's Fiumicino airport was 'interesting'. We were quite surprised when moving through the border security, the officer took one glance at our passports and waved us through. So swift was his glance that he couldn't have even read our names. Was it that we appeared unlikely terrorists, or seemed doubtful we'd want to stay overtime, or were implausible crims? Seems the US fear based approach to border security wherein the power lies with the security goon has yet to reach the Italian border controls.



Once out of the airport, our driver met us with the odd sign "Mr Bruce". We felt certain it was us as few Italians would be burdened by this iconic Australian name. The ride to our apartment in Trastevere in a flash new Mercedes was most welcome. We normally travel with just backpacks, but with the prospect of cold in England we lugged a large case. We didn't relish carting backpacks and a large case on Roman public transport, hence the driver. Good move!



The driver left the airport on the freeway, but after some distance pointed out a concrete St Peter's replica. Apparently, he told us, Mussolini wanted to leave icons and that was one. A bit further, we entered the urban area. The traffic became increasingly chaotic. The urban landscape was unappealing, but then maybe except for Singapore we've yet to see an appealing airport - city drive. After a while, we came across centre-of-the-road tram tracks with concrete 'median' strips. 'Oh, trams' we noted. At one intersection, instead of continuing behind the traffic, the driver veered onto the tram tracks. 'Is this what car drivers do?' we asked. 'In Rome, taxis and hire cars can avoid the traffic and use the tram ways' he told us. We wondered what other 'innovative' traffic solutions we might experience. Within minutes we saw 'another', a BMW electric car being used as a highway pursuit vehicle. Go well against a Ferrari!



Once settled in the apartment, a quick trip to the supermarket for some rustic fare * beer, cheeses, 'salami', olives, bread and wine * had us with our feet up pronto.

Tuesday 24th May - Palatine Hill, Pantheon + +

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We used the London transport app to successfully get ourselves around, so we downloaded the Rome transport app. Where the London app was easy to use, the Rome app, well, let's just say even in the English version it's a challenge to use. We read on Lonely Planet that a good place to start a Rome 'adventure' is Campidoglio. So, we chose he tram to get us there. The tram stop had many people waiting and when the tram arrived, it was chokka! But, no worries to the locals, they just bulldozed their way aboard. If this was THE way, why not! Bruce pushed a reluctant Judy aboard and managed to get himself in before the doors closed. Welcome to Rome transport! ?



Nothing prepared us for the destination. Arriving from the airport to the accommodation, Rome appeared a tired city of scruffy 5 and 6 story buildings packed onto little lanes. True, we hadn't yet visited either the 'attractions' nor greater Rome. But, while it was hard to see much from the tram, what we did glimpse appeared more of the same. Along with the hordes, we alighted the tram at Piazza Venezia. Our first glimpse was stationary traffic, tooting horns, sirens, lots of people, AND...

O...M...G !!

Looo...ook AT THAT !!



Before us in the full morning sun in all it's glowing white marble glory was the Vittoria Monument. Huge is an understatement.., it doesn't just impose, it dominates the 'piazza' landscape. Apparently it was built to commemorate Italian unification and honour Italy's first king, Vittoria Emanuelle II.



We followed Lonely Planet's directions and headed up to Piazza del Campaglio via Cordonate (Michelangelo's staircase to the piazza - he designed both in the early 16th century). Campaglio is but a square (piazza) with buildings on 3 sides. But, what buildings!!! The edifaces of the 3 'palaces' are monstrous in size. They were designed for government; Palazzo Conservatori, Palazzo Nuovo (museum) and Palazzo Sentatorio (initially senate, but now Rome's City Council). In the pleasant morning sun we admired what lay before us and again consulted our written guide.



We duly headed towards the (old) Roman Forum and Palatine, not really knowing what we'd find. It's one thing to read about something, it's often an entirely different matter to experience the 'actuality'. This was the case here. Ruins, yes! But, the sheer scale of the area gobsmacked us. This is the (old) forum in that new forums were built when this forum was deemed too small. Sadly, the 'new' forums were bulldozed on the orders of Mussulini to create space for roads!



To quote LP "In ancient Rome, a forum was a covered market, civic centre and religious complex all rolled into one. The centre of public life, it was richly decorated and grandly scaled". In these modern times, 'grandly scaled' is an understatement. This forum was about 1 kilometre long and about 1/2 km wide. If this forum became too small, one wonders the size of it's replacement! While today the Roman Forum is but a sprawl of ruins, it's not hard to comprehend how it may have looked. We learned that the forum site had been developed by Etruscans some 7 centuries prior. On the southern side of the forum is a large hill (one of the 7 that make up Rome), known as the Palatine. Higher ground on the northern side encloses the forum like a valley. Set into the Palatine hillside were many structures; churches, palaces, shops, etc. Excavations of one church has led researchers to determine it was the first Christian church of Rome (Santa Maria Antiquita). The interactive regeneration of the church site using extant portions of artistic decoration is extremely thought provoking; we think we're 'modern' yet 2000 years ago, they were largely doing as we do today. One extant panel shows the Martrydom of the Forty Martrys (about AD 320). Apparently, on learning some 40 of his soldiers had declared themselves Christian, the prefect (leader) of the Legio XII Fulminata condemned them to be stripped naked and set out on a frozen lake to freeze to death overnight. One repented and the guard overseeing the remaining 39 admitted he too was a Christian and joined to make the 40. As we increasingly discovered, the old Roman had a decided nasty streak when it came to punishment.





After digesting the 'stories' of the forum landscape, we headed up the escarpment onto Palatine hill. It was here the Emperor's established their grand palaces. And, while only ruins remain, the scale of the buildings makes Australian McMansions seem the size of a very small bush dunny!! The scale of these palaces was insane (in the real sense)! Perhaps the most sobering aspect is the fact that these palaces also had huge below ground accommodation that housed slaves, the household kitchens and the administration. Emperors, Senators, Equestrians, Patricians, Plebeians, Slaves; class division was then no less an issue then as it is today; the difference is that we hide our class divisions behind a veneer of 'equality'.



To the south, Palatine hill overlooks an area (now) known as Circo Massimo. Essentially, the southern face of Palatine hill was steep. And successive Emperors found the escarpment ideal to build their palaces (so to provide a view over the Tiber River plain). At the base of the escarpment the (we assume then) flat ground provided scope for a 'circus'. This word is actually of Greek origin and means ring or circle. Circo Massimo is an immense elongated oval (pity about the circle!) used back then for athletic and chariot racing. We read that the chariot race in the film Ben Hur was actually filmed on the site. We understand that the outer area of Circo Massimo was the line of the initial city walls. The photo we've added shows the base of the grandstand (to the right) and a tower of recent construction (for what we don't know).





With the warmth from an increasingly burning sun becoming an irritant, we bid our farewell and headed towards some late afternoon refreshment. With a bit of time available, we headed to the Pantheon. What a building. This almost 2000 year old domed building is enormous. We learned the height of the dome is exactly that of the building diameter; 43.3 metres. Built in AD 120 by Emperor Hadrian, it was consecrated as a Christian church in AD 608. While the use of marble on the interior is breathtaking, it's the dome that challenges. We learned it was constructed as an unreinforced (ie. no reo) concrete dome. We asked ourselves how come after almost 200 years and a couple of earthquakes, the concrete dome has no cracks yet our 1 year old concrete floor has one? Sadly, the exterior is less intact. Though the 16 Corinthian columns at the entrance remain imposing (30 metres tall and each cut in one piece from marble) all the marble panel facades have been removed. The bronze portions were removed and melted down on the orders of a Pope!!!



We bid our farewell to the Pantheon and headed to the Vatican to pick up our tickets for our audience with the Pope the next morn.

Wednesday 25th May - Vatican and Colosseum

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The Pope conducts an 'audience' each Wednesday in the forecourt of St Peter's Basillica (Piazza San Pietro). To partake, one has to apply for tickets. Though she describes herself as 'lapsed', Judy nevertheless applied and was awarded two tickets. Plazza San Pietro is amazing; enclosed by two semi-circular colonnades of baroque style Doric columns of four rows. Apparently the architect Bernini described the design as representing "the motherly arms of the church".



We knew this was a 'public' event, but were unprepared for how 'public'. There were several hundred - maybe 1000+ - with most seated. Given the various flags being waved at the close, we assumed people from probably all Catholic nations had come to partake. We saw a big Chinese flag, many European flags, and up front was a large contingent from Argentina. These folk had arisen early to be up front. Their efforts were rewarded as at the conclusion Pope Francis made his way to them to have a 'chat'.



Given the international flavour, Pope Francis's various messages were read out in multiple languages. Despite the large red flag, Mandarin was not one of them. Perhaps the most annoying part of the 'audience' were the number of people holding conversations while Pope Francis delivered his words. It seemed to us the conversations were Italian. We couldn't fathom why these people went to the trouble of securing tickets (and having to queue the previous afternoon) and disrespecting the situation. Even so, Pope Francis moved Judy.



We'd read that access to the Pristine Chapel needed a several hour wait to buy the Euro-16 entry tickets. If we purchased online at E20, we could beat the queue (but access via a smartphone wasn't acceptable and we didn't have a printer). Even then, the queue after buying the ticket was also several hours long. We'd read that we could buy entry in a 'beat the queue tour' for much more. We investigated and were advised the price was E35 or E40 with a guided tour. We went to book after the 'audience' and the tour company asked whether we'd like to go 'now' (about 11:30) and that the group was small. We discussed it and decided that though we'd planned for tomorrow, why not as we were already 'here'. Bad move. We started off in a group of a dozen, but by the time we'd gotten to the official entry gate, the number had risen to about 40. Once through to the ticket issuing area, the group had grown to 56!!!! And, it still took an hour between start at the Tour office and eventual entry!!!



In the end, it didn't really matter how big the group was. We got issued receivers and microphones so the tour guide could 'speak' to us all. And, the crowds that occupied the Vatican tour rooms were so large no-one could linger to contemplate anything. We consoled ourselves that at least we got a commentary describing what we fleetingly saw. The 'tour' took us through several rooms with marble statues, paintings, tapestries, and on and on. All these iconic art pieces had been plundered by successive popes. Nearly every piece was a masterpiece in it's own right. Possibly because each wall hanging / statue, etc., could only be seen with people in front, what 'got' us were the intensely decorative ceilings. Because there was a bit more breathing 'space', we did appreciate the Vatican gardens. They weren't that flash, but we could escape the intensity of people.



Eventually we came to THE target icon, the Sistine Chapel. This was a huge room, and packed with so many people there were officials ensuring people made a 'corridor' so those seeking to exit could so do. Everyone had told us the Sistine Chapel is a 'must see'. Apparently some 5 million people visit it each year. We couldn't see why. For us, it was a great anti-climax. While Michelangelo may have been the architect who designed the ceiling decorations, and other Renaissance masters the side-wall paintings, we questioned the finesse in the artistry. Sure, the religious meaning in the fresco's was imposing, but... The artefacts we viewed prior to entering the Sistine Chapel were far more skillfully produced, and for us more appealing and endearing.



What moved us was St Peter's Basilica. This basilica/cathedral is just awe inspiring. Built on a monumental scale, the rich and spectacular paintings, marble sculptures and gold leaf decoration are jaw dropping. We'd seen some amazing churches in our travels, but on the scale of monumental St Peter's far excelled anything we'd seen to date. Oddly, St Peter's is not Rome's Catholic Cathedral, that goes to another building.



We noted the sheer size of the Vatican and that there would be a great upkeep cost, but we felt the costs imposed coupled to the numbers attending suggests it's far from break-even - it's a huge net revenue stream for an already unbelievably wealthy entity.



We took our leave of St Peter's and in a bid to place Roman 'life' into perspective, we headed to the Colosseum. Much has been written about the Colosseum. Perhaps it's because of the stories of carnage that occurred here 2000 years ago that brings the building alive. But, carnage was but a minor part. We learned that this was one of several an 'events' stadium. And, was used irregularly and typically in summer. Much like present day olympics, the 'day' would begin with a parade of the day's participants. The morning 'activities' would include mock hunts, with those skilled in the tasks hunting animals that had been released into an arena filled with stage props to resemble a geographical setting. During scene changes, jugglers, acrobats, etc., would entertain. Apparently, these were poorly attended as Romans sought Colosseum activities upon which they could gamble. It was the afternoon gladiatorial combats that appealed to the gamblers. The combatants could be slaves ordered to partake, freemen seeking fortune (upon success) or military men seeking fame. Each gladiatorial 'event' comprised different weapons or techniques. Apparently, if an event didn't offer a good gambling opportunity, Romans would get out the(goat) knuckle bones and gamble with these.



The basis of the modern 'vision' of the Colosseum occurred during lunch - between the morning and afternoon 'sessions'. These were the executions; where those condemned to death were ushered into the arena naked to confront big cats starved for the occasion. Even then, these were not popularly accepted and were undertaken when most left the arena for lunch. Only the bloodthirsty would remain.

Thursday 26th May - Slowly

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The previous 2 days had been over-hectic. Today we felt a little hung over from the pursuit of sights, endless walking, crazy traffic, people, people and more people, and everything else that confronted us. We started the day slowly, and ventured towards Pirimide. To present day Roman's, this site is a transport interchange hub; but historically it is more.



When ancient Rome was walled, population and dwelling growth caused the walls to be periodically extended. A major extension was undertaken in around 270+AD, during the reign of Emperor Aurelian to enclose the seven hills of Rome and the market gardens. At what is now referred to as Pirimide, a tomb was built for one Gaius Cestius, a magistrate and member of a religious corporation. Cestius is believed to have spent time in Egypt and wanted a tomb modelled on the Nubian pyramids. The result is a 100 Roman square foot base pyramid of concrete with a white marble face built into the Aurelian defensive wall. Oddly, it stands alongside a large administrative gatehouse (now known as St Paul's gate). note, 1 Roman foot = 296mm.



We'd passed the pyramid the day before and thought the oddity warranted further investigation. More importantly, though, passing by and from the bus window we'd seen a delightful looking garden adjacent to the pyramid and thought it worthy of a look-see.



At Pirimide, we went looking for the entrance to the garden. Though we'd seen it from a bus window while looking at the pyramid, access seemed restricted from the roadway we'd travelled. Using the MAPS.ME app, we tracked the entrance some way away down some back streets. Upon entry, we found it wasn't a garden, but a graveyard! In fact, it was the graveyard for non-Catholic foreigners. Upon entry, we discovered the graves of Gramsci, Keats and Shelley lay here. As we wandered, the warm sunshine amplified the perfume of Star Jasmine permeating the air. After the hectic pace the previous two days, this was our 'little ray of sunshine'.



After the cemetery, we ventured further along the Aurelian wall to find an Australian War Grave cemetery. Though the Commonwealth Graves Commission deemed it be open from 10-5 each day, a big chain at the entry gate prevented our access.



We continued walking to uncover many other little treasures. After a couple of purchases (including an Italian sim card), we eventually made our way back to our accommodation. After arranging 'things' in the apartment, we headed back out to go look at Piazza Navonna. Here a baroque square is 'on the list' for tourists. We could see why. Surrounded by gorgeous buildings are 3 fountains, each an extravagant statement of 14th century culture. The centrepiece is Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) which is a statement of Catholic might; at the base of an almighty Egyptian obelisk. At that time, Rene Descartes had yet to be borne so these monuments also tell of the then dominance of religion on society.



We wandered around further and just let our noses lead the way. We saw much we appreciated, but rather than try and learn about it, we just dwelled in the moment. By late afternoon we headed back for our supper.

Friday 27th May - A bit of this and a bit of that

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Today we experienced the frustration of Rome's public transport. We wanted to go see the Trevi Fountain. The Rome transport app suggested a route that centred on the Venezia interchange. This interchange is beside Vittoria Monument and the roadway is undergoing refurbishment (thus reducing lanes). The bus we were using to get to get to Venezia took 20 minutes to move half way around the square round-a-bout. We saw our next bus waiting, but by the time 'our' bus arrived the other had departed. The next service of Line 60 bus came 15 minutes later, and after a 5 minute 'wait', had to depart by going one full circle of the round-a-bout, meaning it was stuck in traffic for just over 35 minutes. Welcome to public transport Rome style.



We got the the Trevi Fountain and the water was turned off. The 'cleaners' were using a swimming pool pump to vacuum the coins on the 'pool' floor. It was taking forever, and the area had been barricaded off to allow the men to do their work. We decided to depart and head for the bus to take us to the next 'attraction'. Sadly, we got our directions incorrect and took the bus 'out' rather than in. Oh, well, the only way back was to stay on the bus. At least we got a captain's cook at another part of Rome.



When eventually we arrived at our 'destination' at Piazza San Giovanni in Laterino, we proceeded to the Basillica di San Giovanni in Laterino. This is Rome's Catholic Cathedral, and as such it is the church that is used by the Pope as Bishop of Rome. It is a massive building. We learned that the current incarnation rests on the site of the 'original' (and first) cathedral of Rome and was built during the time of Constantine in AD 324. The current edifice was designed by Borromini for the 1650 'jubilee'. The gargantuan front entry doors are bronze and were pinched from the Curia in the Roman Forum. Inside are colossal marble pillars that offer scale and perspective. There are 15 massive statues; the magnificent 12 with JC, St John the Babtist and John the Evangilist. The 15th century marble floor mosaic floor is just awe inspiring.



We wanted to see Scala Santa, Sancta Santorum and Battistero, but these were closed for 'siesta'. We decided to head back to the apartment to do a little shopping, and return later. At least the tram/bus trip was efficient.



Arriving around 5:30, we first ventured into Sancta Sanctorum. Here, within is Scala Santa, reputed to be the staircase Jesus ascended to Pontius Pilate's palace in Jerusalem. Apparently, the staircase was dismantled and brought to Rome. One can only climb the staircase on one's knees. And, these believers are advised to meditate on the Passion of Jesus, recite the Creed, the Lord's Prayer, and the Prayers of the Rosary. When we attended, so full of faithful there was little room left on the stairs. At the top of the stairs the 'original' Pope's private Chapel is held behind glass with beautiful 13 century fresco's.



We took our leave and headed for the Battistero (baptistry). This ornate 4th century octagonal domed building was built by Constatine and is the prototype for most later Christian churches. Beneath a side room is part of the original 5th century mosaic floor. When looking at the mosaics, we noted each 'tile' was about 5mm square and wondered how Roman stonemasons cut these. Today we have electric tools, but back then, faced with a quarry full of huge boulders, just how were these little pieces cut?



We took our leave and began our return on the (efficient) tram. When travelling 'to', we noticed the afternoon light highlighted the Palatine ruins beside Circo Massimo, so alighted the tram at that point to take photo's. Walking around the Circo Massimo perimeter, we noticed the most intoxicating perfume surrounded us. So enticing, we proceeded to walk away via Viale Aventino to enjoy the heady aroma. We then noticed it was emanating from a street tree in flower. Part way along was a popular bar, so we got a couple of bottles of beer, a couple of glasses and sat on a marble bench under one of these trees to enjoy the evening 'air'.

Saturday 28th May - Colonna, Tridente & shopping

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We'd read that a museum only opened on a Saturday morning and it was one of the best in Rome. So, with some trepidation about the public transport, we headed off. We had a hunch that weekend traffic may be much less than midweek, and our hunch was fulfilled. We took a tram to Piazza Venezia, but didn't await a bus preferring to walk instead to 'save time'. Our 'target' was Palazzo Colonna. Being close to the Trevi Fountain, we decided to walk there as our visit yesterday had the fountain switched off. Today it was 'fountaining', and even though early(ish) still attracted a large crowd.



Palazzo Colonna is first a museum of artworks collected by the Colonna family. Second, the building is a family home. We learned the family 'arose' in the 12th century and came from the area known as Colonna in (near?) Rome. Then, protection from Vandals was necessary and the family developed a fortress through the 12th + 13th centuries. So influential (powerful?) had the family become that patriarch Odonna Colonna was elected as Pope Martin V in 1417. In 1527, during the sacking of Rome by Emperor Charles V, the palace was spared as the family had developed good relations with the regional 'states'. During the 17th century, the family 'fortress' was redeveloped as a baroque palace. The centrepiece of the redevelopment was a huge stateroom Galleria Colonna to both house the accumulated artworks and provide a space of significance to entertain dignatories, heads of state, and royalty. Not long after completion, another raid on Rome - this time a French assault - resulted in a cannonball smashing through the roof and landing on the marble steps descending into the Galleria. Otherwise, the Palazzo was spared. To make a statement, the Colonna's left the cannonball in place, as it sits today.



As was the custom of influential families during this period, the Galleria was dedicated to the victory of Christian armies over the Turks at the Battle of Lepanto in 1571, led by the commander of the Papal Fleet; one Marcantonio II Colonna. The central ceiling fresco depicts the battle. Given that we didn't have any idea of what to expect, we were gobsmacked at the treasures held here. While they were not as 'perfect' as those held in the Vatican (for us to see), it was the setting that held us mesmerised. Also, that there were not hordes of tourists wanting to take selfies in front of artworks (as in the Vatican) ensured we had the time and space to contemplate what we were viewing. After several hours digesting the artworks and the very large formal garden, we took our leave.



We headed to the Spanish Steps as it seems every tourist must visit. When we arrived, it was closed due to repairs. We thought this ironic. Not necessarily because it was closed, but that there are so many other staircases that get no tourist recognition. We proceeded downhill along Via della Fontanella di Borghese to find it was THE street for high end fashion. To enter one of these shops one must first have an appointment. Several have number-locks, others have doorkeepers, but the prices shown beside the clothing in their windows meant only the very wealthy would be their clientèle. For example, we noticed a small boutique under the name Brioni - a menswear boutique - a bomber jacket was A$9,800! This street is in a triangle (of streets) known as Tridente (triangle) comprising Via di Ripetta, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino.



We toddled further along to via Del Corso, the main street for 'popular' fashion (ie. us plebs!). Judy found a few items she HAD to have, and as the day wore on we took time for a relaxing late afternoon drink before heading back to our apartment. Along the way to the subway, we traversed Piazza del Popolo, a large open space that for centuries was the 'site' for executions. Not knowing the background till later, the garishness left us cold.

Sunday 29th May - Tying up loose ends

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Given it was our last day in Rome and a Sunday, we thought we'd do a 'social' experience in Trastevere (where our apartment is located). That's a high faluted way of saying we'd decided to wander the streets of the suburb. We wandered along the 'quite urban' streets of the suburb, eventually arriving at the 'town square'. Overlooking the square (or Piazza) is Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Said the be the oldest cathedral dedicated to Mary, we happened to enter during morning mass. Judy felt desirous of 'attending' the service (the use of Frankincense bringing back too many memories). This building was constructed in the early 12th century with several later additions. Filled with parishioners, it had a homely ambience.



After the service, we headed further into the labyrinth of streets. Relying on MAPS.ME app to enable us the navigate the tangle that is the streetscape, we enjoyed our stroll. Eventually we arrived at a cafe with great reviews. Dar Poeta served amazing pizza's; the thinnest of crust with the fullest of flavours. Tasted great with a cold ale and an Insalata Caprisi. Once finished, we headed towards the Tiber River to explore further. Nearby was Campo De' Fiori, a square which on Sundays is filled with market stall-holders spruiking their wares. In a funny sort of way, the spruiking reminded us of our times at Melbourne's Victoria Markets.



We took our leave and wandered eastwards to the Jewish Ghetto. Here is an area that housed Rome's Jewish community. We learned that in 1555, Pope Paul IV issued a directive that the Jews be confined to a certain area which lasted till the end of the 19th century. Freedom was short lived as it was reinstated by the Nazi's in WW2. Wandering on, we entered 'another' excavation area. This time, a small Amphitheatre. Information boards indicated it was constructed for plays and 'open' theatre. Rather than fall into complete ruin, the structure has formed the basis for several apartments. In recent times, the 'authorities have clad the extant structure with Vesuvian stone to show what it likely looked like. The choice of Vesuvian stone is odd. Originally, it would have been clad with marble. We read that the 'ancient' Roman marble cladding was ripped off by Rome's citizens following the fall of (Ancient) Rome. And, there's a saying in Italy that Romans vandalised Rome more completely than the Vandals (vandals were those from modern day Germany).



Having our fill of 'old' stuff, we caught a bus to Villa Borghese - a large baroque park at the northern precinct of central Rome. The park is a mixture of green open spaces with wonderfully mature deciduous trees, event stadiums, and walking trails. For us, just sitting on a park bench under a massive Oak tree was enough to recharge our (depleted) batteries. We don't know what it is, but being in a (somewhat) natural greenspace is the antidote to the chaos that is urban life.



Amazingly, in the centre of the park is a bus terminal enabling us to return to the 'centre'. While awaiting the Line 160 bus, we were entertained by a trumpet concerto emanating from a nearby rotunda. The bus took us to where we wanted to go - a craft beer pub! Our first in Italy, and the last 'event' before we headed back to the apartment and pack for tomorrow and (hopefully) Naples.

Reflections

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If there is one word that best describes Rome, it has to be chaos. Not only is the traffic chaotic, so is the way Italians in Rome appear to approach life. And, while there are modern world buildings and streets, these are laid over centuries of foundations. For whatever reason, the Italians prefer cobblestones over concrete or bitumen pavement. Accordingly, walking is arduous and motoring is rough. As we learned, the public transport is also chaotic.



In another sense, Rome is a bilateral city. That is, a juxtaposition between ancient Rome (the tourist attraction) and the modern city. On the one hand, these two aspects are separate, but on the other they meld as an almost unified one.



We obviously have no idea about the bureaucracy in/of Rome. However, we've read the Italian political landscape is one of compromise as post-WW2, rarely has there been a party in control of governance (ie. with a majority). Given the state of the roads, transport, accessibility, etc., etc., etc., it seems modern Rome is more the outcome of incompetence than progress and efficient management.



Overall, we enjoyed our time in Rome. That's not to say that at times we didn't 'hang' on our frustration at the relatively inhospitable 'environment' - we clearly did. But, as a 'new' visitor to any complex city, there will always be challenges. We just didn't anticipate those we experienced in Rome.



In our writings, above, we focussed on the sights that we enjoyed. In this section, we are whinging a bit but it's about placing our experience in balance. That said, our time in Rome was more enjoyment than frustration. And, we must say some of the sights we saw were positively jaw dropping.



As we left, we lamented somewhat that we'd sort of mastered the 'frustrations' of Rome and if we were 'here' for more time we'd grow to really love this weirdly complex city.

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