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Published: February 21st 2009
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Circus Maximus
The only ruins still standing in the arena Today, I had no classes, and since every Wednesday I have free, I wanted to dedicate that free time to exploring more of the city that I lived in. Al and Jordan also had the day free so we decided that it would be a good day to explore some of what Rome had to offer, especially since it wasn't raining, despite the predicted forecast. We planned to walk down the Appian way, which was the original road that led into Rome. Along that road is the catacombs, which is what we wanted to see. So we got on a bus and headed towards Palatine Hill.
Once stepping off the bus, we were greeted with a rush of cold air. It happened to be a really cold day today. It was in the low 30s and very windy but we were determined to continue. On top of Palatine Hill is Circus Maximus. It was really cool to see the chariot racing arena, although it is a lot different now than how it was originally and from how I remember it in Ben Hur with all its splendor. Now the arena is mostly just grass with a small tower and a
couple of stairs, which people now use as a track to run in or almost like a park. From there we headed down to where the bus stop would be to take us to the catacombs. However, after waiting for a while, we started to get restless. Also, the catacombs still had another hour before they were opened again, so we decided to go explore because to the right of us, we saw that there was a large amount of ruins. We walk over and see that it is the Baths of Caracalla. Caracalla was an Emperor of Rome, and he had built the largest bathing area of the time, because back then, it was considered a social event. We had to pay 6 euros to get in, which was kinda disappointing because it actually was a big shell of what it use to be. So it looked the same from the outside as it did from the inside, with the exceptions of a few mosaic pieces that were sporadically placed. We were also slightly upset because we did not realize that we would be going to the baths again for two classes for free. Oh well.
We then
decide to head toward the catacombs and gave up on the bus that never seemed like it was going to come. As with any bus in Rome, they are not very reliable. Jordan brought a travel book of Rome with him that had an excellent map of the area we wanted to walk to, and it did not seem to be too far so we set off on foot. Not too far outside the baths we noticed an American couple (given away from the LA Fitness backpack that the guy sported). They called out to us for help and asked if we knew what those ruins were. I told them that it was the Baths of Caracalla, but advised them against going in since it looked the same from the outside as it did after paying the six euros to get in. They then told us that they were headed for the catacombs, and since that was where we were going with walked along with them. They also mentioned briefly that there was a church that had the footprints of Jesus in it somewhere in the area, so that was interesting to hear. They were both really friendly, and it
was nice to have their company along the way.
So we are walking along the narrow road of Appia Antica, and now I know why the guide book did not recommend walking to the catacombs. The road being narrow, and it being Rome, the drivers were a little too close for comfort at some point, with very little of the street being set aside for the sidewalk. After a while, we came to a fork in the road and stood in the doorway of this old building to check our maps. After seeing which way we had to go, we looked up and saw that we were in the doorway of the church, so went in. It was a quaint church, very tiny and humble. And I noticed in the center of the floor there was a marble stone with footprints in it. By accident, we stumbled upon the church with Jesus' footprints in it.
Legend goes that it is at this spot that Saint Peter met Jesus while Peter was fleeing persecution from Rome. Peter asked Jesus, "Domine, quo vadis?" (Lord, where are you going?) Jesus replied "Eo Romam iterum crucifigi" (I am going to Rome to
be crucified again). After hearing this, St. Peter gets the courage to return to Rome to continue his ministry. He ultimately becomes a martyr and is crucified upside down, since he didn't deserve to be crucified as Christ was.
It was really nice to go into the church where the footprints were originally made and where Jesus and St. Peter met, even if it was a copy of the footprints that are now being safely held in the Basilica of San Sebastian. We then head back to our journey and saw that there was a pedestrian passage that led to the catacombs and ran parallel to Appia Antica. It is closed on Wednesdays but the gate was wide open so we decided to walk along that path, trying to avoid walking in such close proximity to the cars again. It was so nice to walk along the peaceful walkway. There was even a herd of sheep next to us. We get to the end though, and realize that the gate that leads out was locked. So we would have to walk all the way back just to get out now. Luckily the Spanish guy (who spoke perfect English) went
to the door and managed to talk to someone and have them open the gate for us. We finally made it to the catacombs di San Sebastian and got the last tour of the day.
The catacombs were very interesting. It is three levels deep, but we only stayed on the second level. It was very narrow and low at some points (but not so much that I would have a problem fitting through). Almost every section on the walls contained a tomb. A lot of the people buried were actually Christian martyrs or people that were persecuted since there were genocides against the Christians in Ancient Rome. There was a clearing that was more of a room than a passage way and had white marble inside. It was where the tomb of San Sebastian. There was a bust of him adjacent from the tomb. The tomb, which was too small to fit a man inside, actually contained the location of the real burial site of San Sebastian. We also walked further to see the dining area in the catacomb. When people buried their dead, they also had a meal in honor of them. In this area, there was
a wall of small prayers dedicated to St. Paul and St. Peter, who were temporarily buried in that catacomb because during a time in Ancient Rome, an Emperor wanted to burn all the saints' bodies. We then came up from the catacombs to an exit that entered right into San Sebastian's church, which had a statue with three golden arrows in it. When St. Sebastian was condemned to death, they shot three arrows at him, but he actually survived. Ultimately though he was beaten to death and became a martyr.
After all this, we waited along the narrow road of Appia Antica for the 118 bus, hoping it would come. A British family on the tour with us joined us in waiting for they bus. They got restless after five minutes and decided to walk up the road. About a minute after they left, the bus came. As we drove past them on the bus, all their faces were shocked. I couldn't help but smile at the irony. I finally got back after being out for over six hours. What an adventure.
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Laura Sahyoun
non-member comment
Inspirational!!
I'm thinking there is a connection between Boromir and Saint Sebastian? ... It's all so beautiful!