Rome as a Gastronomic Destination


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September 10th 2008
Published: September 10th 2008
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I think I may explode before this trip is over from all the delicious food! This afternoon's lunch was at Bar Ciampini, on the Via Sistini just up from our hotel, a preview for Saturday's lunch there. We planned to try the same menu we will be having on Saturday, which was delicious. I also anticipate it will be too heavy, because I was full after three courses - and there will be four!

We began with an interesting juxtaposition of salty parma ham and sweet cantaloupe - although I knew there were other courses to follow, I enjoyed it so much that I finished almost all of it! So far, it has been my greatest gastronomic revelation here in Italy. It was followed by a risotto, which was also good, albeit a bit salty. We missed out on the roast, which we will have on Saturday, because we had let them know of our intent to come too late. We then finished with two desserts, to make a choice - the original choice was a tiramisu, which was by far the best I had ever tasted. No alcohol-soaked lady fingers, but instead, a delicate espresso flavored cream, with two different coffee flavors. We also had the specialty of the house, a tartufo that was invented by the father of the current owner, combining two types of chocolate to form a surprisingly light, yet deeply chocolate dessert. The whip cream topping was entirely necessary. I was surprised that after this meal, our Italian host did not have to roll me back to the hotel!

The atmosphere was similarly delightful. We sat in what felt like a garden terrace, where the sounds of the city were mostly blocked out by a wall of greenery and we faced a beautiful panorama of Rome unfolding beneath us, blocked only by a couple of buildings. In the center of the room was a pool filled with turtles of all sizes. I saw a tiny, tiny one swimming his little heart out along the side, and another small one sunning himself on a ceramic turtle bigger than he was. Later, I again saw the tiny one, who had climbed up on a bigger turtle sitting on a rock, and was perched there as though he was the king of the pool.

After a short walk back to the hotel, I was in need of some rest to digest my lunch! Our Italian host had invited me and my dad to dinner, which we happily agreed to, and later were joined by several of the other delegates who had already arrived. Our Italian host had arranged for us to go to etabli, on vicolo delle vacche, by the Piazza Navona. It was a real find, an unassuming, friendly restaurant opened by a friend about a year and a half ago. I particularly enjoyed a rather karaoke version of a Beatles song playing in the background just after we were seated. It was a great place to casually enjoy a leisurely meal, which we certainly did. Beginning with a round of appetizers, from prosciutto with melon again, octopus (didn't try it), swordfish (that either), and a delightful bruschetta. I was glad that I had only ordered the insalata mista for my meal, which was a lighter complement to the heavy appetizers! For dessert, I tried the refreshing sorbetti - orange and pink grapefruit, which only reminded me that I do not, in fact, like grapefruit in any form. But the orange sorbet was a wonderful finale to the meal. Several of us were rather jet lagged towards the end, so we were glad to make our way back to the hotel for a good night's sleep before the official start to the conference tomorrow. It's always strange to have a last minute get together with some of the group in advance of the conference, because it almost extends the conference, and tires me out more! Late nights are not my forte anymore!

So tomorrow, we head to Obika for lunch, a local mozzarella restaurant (can't wait to see what this is like!). Then, the board meeting, followed by the welcome reception and dinner up the street at Casina Valadier, a beautiful place. I think it will be a lovely day!

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