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In the last few days before leaving Cinque Terra, I contacted a few schools in Genoa (Genova) and was just about to commit to one of them when I decided to do some more reading and got the sense to look around some more first. And, up popped Reggio Emilia. So, I contacted the only school that I could find there and was so impressed by how patient and helpful the contact, Daniela, was that I knew that I would head that way next.
After a bunch of back and forth emails, all the arrangements were made and then Daniela wrote me one last one asking if I’d like her to pick me up at the station and take me to the B&B that she had arranged for me for the first two nights. That was a first and so appreciated. How could I refuse? She told me to call her when I got in and she’d come and get me. But, when the train arrived at the station, there she was waiting. Then, over to the B&B, which is owned by the two nicest folks, Enrico & Paula, who welcomed me and told me to feel free to use the kitchen or whatever at any time, etc., etc. What I mean by “etc., etc.” is that I was getting the sense that I had come to a very different world - people so accommodating and kind. Something felt very different about this city.
And, it has continued as such. I love Reggio. There’s such a general sense of ease and tranquility about it. The pace is… Well, there almost is no pace to speak of. Everything just seems to flow. You walk around the city and there’s this general feeling of peace. Very little rushing about, hardly any tourists, coffee shops (“bars” as they call them here) everywhere, with lots of people hanging out in them or at gelaterias or outdoor restaurants chatting and socializing at all hours of the day, but especially in the evenings and on weekends; lots and lots of shops (especially clothing stores, delicatessens and newstands); not one fast food chain and lots of people either on bicycles or just strolling about and relatively few cars and motorcycles on the streets and those that are traveling quietly and in no noticeable hurry. I keep waiting to wake up. I’m sure there’s more than meets the eye; but, in the meantime I’m just loving it.
The school itself is very small but different (also) from the one of similar size in Firenze. It oozes the same general feeling as the city. The classwork is just as demanding as at the other schools, but there’s that same sort of “ok-ness” about it all. There’s also a much greater component of mature students than at the other two schools, probably because of the nature of the city itself - it not being an “in” place. The other night, one of the teachers told me that she and a couple of the students were going to a movie and would I like to come. She drove and afterwards the four of us went for a ride into the hills for a night view of the city from on high and then to a café afterwards - all in all, a very pleasant time.
Another thing about Reggio - no surprise, really, after what I had been sensing about the place -- is that it’s a very politically liberal town and reminds me a lot of Ashland that way, even though it’s about eight times as big. Today was May 1st and there was an alternative fair in one of the piazzas, with a large variety of politically ideological booths with volunteers or venders selling books and left-leaning magazines, organic foods, anti-fascist and anti-Berlusconi pennants and t-shirts, natural-fiber clothing and a big area for people doing folk dancing and all that type of thing and just jammed with the local folks taking it all in.
By the way, in my class last week, in addition to students from Norway, Taiwan, Japan and Sweden, there was also a woman from the US and one from Australia and I was amused that none of us ever spoke English to one another, even when we were talking one-on-one, for instance, during a break at the coffee shop across the street between classes or just chatting about this or that or saying goodbye as some of them were heading off at the end of last week.
And, finally, the weather: Very nice the last several days and, for the first time since I’ve arrived, consistently so - pretty much in keeping with the other joys of this past week.
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Roger Elowitz
non-member comment
Info about Reggio Emilia
Hi Donny, I'm enjoying your travel blog. I've done a bit of research on Reggio Emilia and found on Wikkipedia some interesting info about their world-famous education system: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reggio_Emilia_approach Seems like you've taken my advice about "total immersion." Bellissimo! Roger