Italy, what is with the rats tails and mullets?


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Europe » Italy » Campania » Amalfi
July 23rd 2013
Published: August 3rd 2013
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St Peters BasilicaSt Peters BasilicaSt Peters Basilica

My fav place in Rome
Seriously, I've never seen so many boys with rats tails, what is that? Is it a soccer thing? I don't understand soccer, so if it is a soccer thing then that would make sense. That doesn't explain all the lady mullets and thick black eye liner at 9am in the morning. Are you heading out or just getting home? I guess there are some things ill never get about Italy!!

I got the pizza, pasta and gelato, got that in my guts well and good! The currency might be euros, but I'm gaining pounds!!

Ahhh, now where did I finish last time......

Amanda and I parted ways with Joanne at the airport. She made the long journey back to Australia and we took a flight to Rome for a quick stop before we were to start our self guided walking tour on the Amalfi coast.

I did the major sites of Rome a few years ago, but Amanda hadn't been to Italy at all. Our mission was to tick off all the major attractions in only 1.5 days. A tough mission in peak season in the stinking heat.



St. Paul's - tick
Vatican - tick
Pizza - tick
Colloseum - tick
Pasta - tick
Trevi fountain - tick
Gelato - tick
Spanish steps - tick
Pantheon - tick
Pizzzzzzzzza - tick

Rome = done

Next stop, Amalfi. To get there from Rome it's a 4 hour train ride to Naples. Another 1 hour train ride to Sorrento then a 2 hour bus ride to Amalfi along the winding coastal road. Felt like it took forever to get there, but once we arrived, it was jaw dropping scenery everywhere! The crystal blue waters, mountain peaks, massive cliff drops and stunning houses. It's a holiday destination for those with money, so many fancy boats, luxury cars, fine dining restaurants and beautiful people. Yes, I know what you are thinking, then why were we there? For the hiking of course!

I've never done a self guided walking tour before, it was my compromise with Amanda while planning this part of the trip. At night we stay in style at beautiful hotels, with access to restaurants and simple pleasures, they even transport our luggage from hotel to hotel. By day, we trek Amalfi coast walking on average 6 hours and getting to explore the natural wonders.

When we arrived at our first hotel there was a package waiting for us, it was very exciting. Inside the package were instructions for each day including kilometres covered, an elevation map, what to pack, lazy person options ( which we never took ) and so on. It was like a treasure hunt.

The temperature was always around 30 degrees, cooling ( if you can call it that ) to around 25 at night. This made walking tough and we had to be smart about how we approached It. Lots of sun cream, water and sugar.

This was Amanda's first trekking adventure, I gave her my walking poles to use and was happy the written instructions for day 1 had only 5.5 hours of walking. Turns out it took 9 hours. I was waiting for her to smack me with the poles but I was very impressed that she stuck out the whole day! We seen many beautiful things from old ruins, enchanting forests, spectacular panoramic views and steps, lots and lots of steps.



Our next day was much more relaxed. We were off to the isle of Capri, or as I'd like
Amalfi coastAmalfi coastAmalfi coast

This is town the 'Path of the Gods' ends
to call it, the isle of the rich and famous. To get there it's a 1 hour super fast ferry from Amalfi, the view along the way was worth the ride itself. When we got there it was more amazing views. On our walk we started chatting with a lovely lady and her son. When we told her we were from Australia she said "oh, I've played tennis there, in the Australian Open...." Turns out we were chatting to Ann Grossman-Wunderlich an American professional tennis player married to an Olympic swimmer. She's now retired but is a private coach. She was staying on the island for a month giving private lessons to the daughters of a millionaire who owns several hotels on the island as well as several apparel companies that a lot of you buy from. I can't say who it was, sworn to secrecy. Ann and her son Ty ended up hanging out with us for the day and doing the whole walking tour, they were loads of fun and great company!! She even contributed to the tour pointing out people's places she knew, like Armani's house.



Day 3 was a funny day, we were
Amalfi townAmalfi townAmalfi town

We had beach view rooms
walking up around some of the higher coastal towns. We may have got lost ( ok, we got lost ) adding an additional 3 hours to the walk, we also ended up on some very over run tracks covered in thistles and prickle bushes ( a clear sign we were going the wrong way ). Amanda took a fall at one point and the first aid kit come out. Did a bit of patch work on the cuts and bruises, she didn't complain at all! It was a very long day, the blisters were starting to show on both our feet!



Day 4 seen Amanda skip the first part of the trek up and down Mt Tre Cali. Some of her injuries were playing up and it was a good choice on her part. I however decided to get up early and make a start before the stinking heat. The walk up to the top was STEEP for 1.5hrs. Covered in sweat I finally made it and it was well worth
Path of the GodsPath of the GodsPath of the Gods

You can see Amanda hard at work!
it. 360 degree views around the coast, beautiful! While taking it all in I started to hear faint bells ringing. I thought I was hearings things at first ( like maybe the bells to heaven as I'd walked so high ) but the bells become louder and next thing around 100 goats are walking up the top. I loved it, the views, the sweet music of the bells, maybe it was heaven. I was waiting to see the person guiding them but they were being guided by only dogs, about 5 of them. Pretty cool to watch. While sitting there taking it all in I hadn't really noticed the fact that they were taking over the track I was to follow. As I started to walk along following my way marks as per instructions ( I didn't want to go off track after getting lost the day before ) I suddenly found myself in the middle of the goats. Next minute one of the dogs realises I'm in the pack and starts barking at me, all the dogs started barking at me. Shit. I started saying "it's ok, just passing through" in my puppy voice. Oh wait, they don't understand, there Italian dogs! " Chow bella"I say, that's pretty much the extent of my Italian. They are still barking, growling, oh dear, I think they think I'm mocking them. Walk quick walk quick, don't make eye contact..... I survived, my blissful bells not so heavenly sounding anymore. I walked down pretty quickly after that!




The next few days of walking were just as beautiful. Our final day was the completion of the 'Path of the Gods'. The whole week on the Amalfi coast was by far a highlight. The self guided walking tours are a great idea for those who want to be active all day but like the luxuries at night!! Oh and the swimming was great, the water was so buoyant I'm pretty sure it is near impossible to drown. Lots of sun baking, brown leathered old ladies. Jo, no areola's to be seen.



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Our feet after a hard day walkingOur feet after a hard day walkingOur feet after a hard day walking

Someone wore their Jesus sandals
128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />When I asked Amanda if she would do it again the response was something like "#%£> hot %#£ beautiful #£^% bitch". Translation "yes".



We arrived back in London late Sunday night, but just in time for Monday when Kate had her baby! Glad she waited for me to arrive! Haven't had time got pop round for a nurse yet, I'm sure Kate and Will understand I'm busy right now.



I've been a bit slack posting my blog, I actually wrote this 2 weeks ago and forgot to post it, whoops!!! I've just arrived in Slovenia now and in the next week ill be making my way down to croatia for a week of sea kayaking!!! Plenty more stories to come!!





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