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Published: August 1st 2008
Boats in a Row
This was next to Ross Castle in Killarney National Park.Southward we went into the luxuriant Irish countryside. My mom was at the wheel of our little red rental car and Ken, my stepfather, was navigating from the passenger seat. I was in the back seat with my camera gear and all of the overflow baggage from the trunk - It was definitely a tight fit, but, compared with all of the mini-bus rides I had had in Africa, it was a comfortable and roomy ride. We were embarking on a week long journey through southern Ireland, from Dublin to Limerick. We were following a route that my parents originally dreamed up for themselves as they planned their yearly vacation. I was there as an afterthought and at times a moocher.
Dublin’s busy streets quickly gave way to open highways and then to two lane country roads. My mom had little problem adjusting to the right-hand drive car and the strange roads. It was by no accident that she was driving. We pulled into Kilkenny sometime late in the morning. We were there to see Kilkenny Castle, which we were told was one of the loveliest in Ireland. We found some questionable parking below the castle’s ramparts along the river
A Forest Stream
The path through the forest to the waterfall was amazing. and then we set off on foot. The town’s narrow streets and old buildings had a very charming, medieval feel that made us all want to slow down and stay a while. It was a very inviting town, but, sadly, it was one of the casualties resulting from having to force a vacation into two weeks. We went up hill for a block and then we turned and headed up to the castle grounds. The first thing we came to was the large garden on the northwest corner of the castle, which afforded excellent views of the large stone fortress. We walked through a large doorway to the inside of the ‘U’ shaped ramparts where we found a huge green lawn that stretched to the distant trees. We enquired about the tour of the castle, but my cheapness clouded my judgment and I walked away, content to explore the exterior of the castle. We ended up spending around an hour exploring the grand stone edifice and then we decided to move on.
Our stomachs started growling shortly after leaving Kilkenny, but it wasn’t until we were nearly to Waterford that we actually decided to stop. The place that finally
Waterford Castle
Ah, my home away from home - If only for a night, I lived in a castle! caught our eyes was an old stone building with a red sign out front that read ‘The Rising Sun’. The building that The Rising Sun occupied dated from the mid-seventeenth century, but it had been nicely restored and was functioning as a guest house and a pub. We ate our excellent lunch in the old pub section. It was a charming place with exposed rock and brick walls - It was amazing to sit there and think about the stories those walls had heard and witnessed. We finished with lunch and headed towards Waterford. As we drove across the bridge over the River Suir we got our first sight of Waterford. My first impression of the place was good - It was definitely a quiet place, but it had charm. We found my parent’s hotel and got them checked in and then we set off to explore the town. I made a quick detour to the bus station on the river to check the bus schedule for the evening - My hostel was in a different town to the south and I had to make sure I didn’t miss the last bus. We walked through Waterford’s seemingly deserted streets for
Kilkenny Castle
This was one of the loveliest castles we saw in Ireland. a little while, passing the large round stone tower, which was one of the oldest buildings in Ireland, and then, following the advice of a local man, we found a nice pub called T&H Doolans and we sat down for a while. The pub had a nice atmosphere - The building was built into the ancient city walls so stone was the décor of choice. We learned a good bit about Waterford as we sat there talking with the nice lady behind the bar - We learned that the town was deserted because the students at a local college were out of school then. We ended up eating dinner there as well and what a great meal it was - I ate a delicious Guinness marinated lamb stew. After diner I said good night to my parents and left them in the pub. I retrieved my bag from their hotel and then I walked along the river to the bus station. While I waited for my bus I stared out across the river and I admired the old boats tied up to the river quay.
My hostel was located in Tramore, a few kilometers south on the coast. The
Kilkenny Castle (2)
This was a picture taken by Ken, but I had to include it. bus driver knew exactly where I was headed, so he let me know when he arrived at my stop. Tramore was a pleasant seaside town, complete with a small carnival. My hostel was nice enough, but there were not a lot of people there, not that it really mattered - I had other plans for the night. I got moved in and I paid for the two nights I would be staying there. I made myself a cup of tea and then I nestled into one of the plush chairs in the common area and I started reading - My parents had brought me a copy of the final installment of the Harry Potter series and I was excited to start reading it (plus, I wanted to have it finished before I left Ireland, since it was a wonderfully heavy book.) I was engulfed in the story when someone came in the room and told me it was time to lock up the common room - Apparently the rules meant to keep the parties quiet after midnight also applied to people quietly reading. I moved out to the dimly lit hallway and finished a few more chapters and then I
At the Rising Sun
This was the lovely pub we had lunch at our first day. was off to bed.
The following day started with a quick bus ride back to Waterford. I found my parents in their hotel’s restaurant eating breakfast. I said good morning and then I grabbed a table close by and ordered breakfast for myself. After breakfast we went up to their room where we filled each other in on our evening’s adventures. Apparently their hotel, which had no air-conditioning, couldn’t supply them with a fan and the street noise was too loud to have the windows open, so they roasted in a sauna all night. They were not all that happy with their ‘four star’ hotel, but, luckily, they had other arrangements for the next evening. We packed their luggage into the car and we drove out of town following the river. We came to the end of the road at a ferry crossing and we waited for our ride. The old ferry arrived and we pulled onto its empty deck. A few minutes later we were on a lovely forested island in the middle of the river. We followed a narrow, winding road through the picturesque trees and leafy green undergrowth until we came around a turn and pulled
Do I Look Tired?
At the Rising Sun. into a hidden drive and came to a stop at the ivy-covered stone castle that dominated the island. My parents checked in and then we followed a bellman up to their lavish suite. The plaque on the door read ‘Presidential Suite’. The room was actually two rooms with a shared bathroom separating them. The suite had an antique décor with lovely wallpaper and bulky wood furniture and paintings all over the walls, but it was very comfortable. Keeping with the antique feel, the bathroom had a free-standing, cast-iron tub and exposed fittings - It was lovely.
While we were sitting in the room talking we discovered that the couch in the extra room had a hide-a-bed in it. We had been discussing the hassles of getting me back to my hostel in the evening and then meeting up again the following morning - The castle was well off of the bus route to Tramore. My mom mentioned that I should just stay with them in the extra room. We found out that the add-on fee for a third person was very affordable and it did make all of the transport issues disappear, not to mention the fun of being
Guinness
The national drink. together in such a grand setting. It was with a good bit of excitement that I paid the extra fee and became a resident of Waterford Castle. I was excited, but I did feel like I was using my parents - My accommodations cost considerably less than theirs. We took a walk around the castle grounds, which were lovely and green with large twisted trees and patches of clover. It was a wonderful island setting.
In addition to the castle, the island was home to a popular golf course. Ken, being an excellent golfer, had an appointment with his clubs, so we dropped him off at the clubhouse and wished him luck. My mom and I were going back into town for a few hours to explore the famous Waterford Crystal factory, which was somewhat of a pilgrimage for my mom. We crossed the river on the old ferry and then we wound our way back the way we had come. We made a quick detour to my hostel in Tramore, so I could get my bags and let the owner know that I wouldn’t be staying there that night and then we headed off to the crystal factory.
The Ancient Ferry
We had to cross over the river on this to get to the Waterford Castle. We pulled into the tour-bus clogged parking area, parked the car and headed inside. We found out that the factory tour would have required us to be on our feet for over an hour with no places to stop and sit - My mom would have had a hard time with that, so we decided to watch a quick video of the crystal making process instead. The museum like display room had some amazing works of crystalline art. From elaborate horse and carriage displays to giant clocks and chandeliers, it all was beautiful and costly. We moved past the grand art and entered the factory store. My mom had the look of a child in a toy store as she eagerly explored her crystal wonderland looking for the perfect additions to her formal dining room. She looked at the wine glasses and the bowls and the glasses, some of which cost more than my monthly budget on the road. While she was lost in her crystal dreams I was wandering through the display room taking in the sights. There is no doubt that if I had a home I would want to fill it with some of the amazing items
they had on display - A particular set of deep cobalt-blue glasses caught my eye, but they would have to wait until I actually have a dining room to put them in. We ended up spending nearly an hour in the showroom. My mom finally selected a set of salt and pepper shakers and a butter dish and we went to the counter and placed an order. We were getting hungry, so we walked back to the café and ordered a few sandwiches and talked. When we left the factory we headed back to our island kingdom to relax for a while and enjoy the medieval ambiance of our castle home.
That evening we ate an amazing meal in the castle’s large banquet hall. The room was huge. The walls were paneled in dark wood with several large paintings and a few massive windows. Soothing music flowed from the grand piano and filled the room with a joyful air. Twilight faded into night as we sat in the dimly lit room amid flickering candles talking and enjoying our amazing meal - I had the rack of lamb, which was cooked to perfection. When we were finished with our desert
On the Castle Grounds
The grounds surrounding Waterford Castle were lovely. and coffee we moved on to the lounge where we spent another hour or so talking with an American couple that was staying at the castle. Living and traveling the way I do and having no home of my own has led to many unique answers to the question, “Where do you live?” Whether it was ‘a remote science station in Antarctica’, ‘the heaving deck of a tall ship’, or ‘a bug infested bench at a bus station in the Chaco’, it seems like the answer has been fairly strange over the last three years - On that particular evening the answer to the question was, “I live in a castle in Ireland.” It was late when we made it back to the room, so we said good night and went to our respective rooms. I had no intentions of going to sleep. I was headed back into the magical world of Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. Outside my window the wind howled like a screaming banshee and the rain came down in drenching torrents. A flash of lightning filled the room with a ghostly light and the crack of thunder spoke of danger on the prowl (Ok, so
Inside Waterford Castle
I loved the interior of the castle, so I spent a long time trying for the perfect picture. it was actually a nice, calm night, so I had to dig into the deep recesses of my imagination to produce the storm). The Dark Lord could have been right outside my window, but I knew Harry Potter would save the day. The clock read two o’clock when the final chapter had been read and one of the greatest stories ever told came to a magnificent and fitting end - I suppose I couldn’t have chosen a better setting to finish reading the grand tale of castles and magical realms!
Sunlight was flowing through the stone rimmed windows when I woke up the next morning. I had not slept long, but I felt fairly refreshed. We got our bags packed up quickly and then we went down to the lovely sun room for a long breakfast and coffee. Afterwards, we took one last walk through the dewy grass around the castle grounds and then we packed the car, said farewell to our island kingdom and crossed the river. We were heading west along the southern coast of Ireland. The scenery was beautiful, though we rarely got a glimpse of the ocean through the greenery. We managed to make a
Another View
I love good stone work - I hope to incorporate it into my home someday. few wrong turns, but we eventually found our way through the lovely old town of Cork and on to our next destination. We were at one of the biggest tourist sites in all of Ireland, Blarney Castle. We managed to find a place to park in the clogged parking area and then we made our way through the crowds of tourists to the entrance. I was a bit grouchy, undoubtedly due to my lack of sleep, and I was complaining about how crowded the place was, but when we passed through the gate and entered the amazing garden-like setting of the castle grounds I started feeling much better. In fact, I was amazed. It seemed like the hordes of people around the visitor center had disappeared. We walked in peace through emerald green meadows along the meandering path beneath the ancient trees. The walkway crossed a small stream on a tiny bridge and then the stone ramparts of the castle rose up in front of us like an impenetrable barrier. I was blown away. The castle we had stayed in the night before was beautiful, but it was more of a large, stone home or palace. Blarney Castle was an
The Dining Room
This was the lovely dining room at Waterford Castle. imposing fortress that spoke of warring kingdoms and knights and chivalry. I didn’t have a flashlight, but it didn’t stop me from making a quick exploration of a few tunnels that had been dug into the base of the ramparts. It was extremely dark inside, so I had to be cautious as I explored the different passages, most of which ended fairly un-dramatically - My favorite passage followed a set of slippery stairs up, ending at the ceiling, or, at least, that was what my aching head told me it was! We followed the well trodden path around the ramparts and through a lovely garden to the entrance to the castle tower.
My mom decided to take a seat on a bench and take in the lovely setting as Ken and I explored the imposing stone tower. The castle was mostly in ruins, though the spiral staircases and walkways and many of the rooms were still intact. In fact, the castle ruins had been masterfully restored in a way that preserved the ruined nature of the buildings and the ancient feel of the site while preventing further deterioration and other hazards common around ruined buildings. It was a joy
Blarney Castle
Though in ruins, Blarney Castle was a lovely and well preserved place. to explore. Blarney Castle is world famous for one activity - People line up for the privilege of kissing the Blarney Stone, which is said to impart the ‘Gift of Gab’. The one thing that gets many people, my mom included, is the fact that you have to climb all the way to the top of the tower in one of the very tight spiral staircases. Ken wanted to kiss the stone, so, despite his dislike of tight spaces and long lines, he joined me on an exploration of the tower. One of my favorite architectural features that a building can have is a stone spiral staircase, so I was having an amazing time walking up its dizzying height - I always walk up on the narrow slice of stair near the center column formed by the overlapping step stones. We climbed into the darkness. Level after level went by as we climbed. I took my time exploring each of the dark rooms in turn. Ken, on the other hand, wanted to get out of the confined spaces of the stone helix as quickly as possible, so he climbed on ahead of me. I made it up to the top
level and paused to take in the impressive views out across the verdant landscape. I made it back to where Ken was in time to see him lay down on his back, bend backwards over a drop off once used to pour hot oil on advancing enemies and kiss the Blarney Stone. We paused for a little while longer on top to enjoy the moment. Ken had completed his quest and it was time for us both to descend a second spiral staircase back to where my mom was waiting for us. We walked around the grounds for a little while longer and then we slowly made our way back to the car and put Blarney Castle behind us.
We followed some narrow country roads for the rest of our drive. The scenery was amazing and the occasional stone building added to the timeless beauty of the landscape. We pulled into the lovely town of Killarney in the early afternoon. We drove over to my parents’ bed and breakfast a short walk out of town and we got them checked in. I was staying at a hostel in the middle of town, so we planned on meeting back at
Kissing The Blarney Stone
OK, I suppose it is just after the kiss. their place in a few hours and then I headed into town with my backpack on. After a bit of searching I found my hostel down a narrow alley just off one of the main drags. I got my room and dropped off my bags. I walked around down town for a while looking for dinner places and then I headed back to where my parents were staying. That evening we headed to a popular pub near my hostel and we found a table near the stage. We spent the rest of the evening in the company of the wonderful band ‘The Molly Maguires’ Their music was lively and flawless and we had an amazing time listen to their renditions of some of Irelands most loved pub songs, as well as some of their own. It was a bit humorous, but when I first saw and heard the lead singer of the band I thought it was my friend Alan that I met on the bark Europa and traveled around South Africa with - It wasn’t, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were related. We had an early morning, so we reluctantly pulled ourselves away from the music towards
In the Spiral
Ken doesn't care for tight spaces, but he ignored them at Blarney Castle. the end of the second set and headed back to our rooms.
When I got back to my room I discovered that I had left the bag with my alarm clock in it back in the car. It was late and I didn’t feel like walking all the way across town to get the clock, which I needed for the following morning. I tried in vain to borrow one from the hostel - They had lent their last one out. I walked through the streets looking for an open shop. I eventually found a small stand selling gum and candy down a deserted, but well lit alley. The nice man behind the counter happened to own a bigger store a little further down the alley and he opened it up for me. I headed back to the room, the proud owner of a bright red, old fashioned alarm clock, the kind with the bells on top, with big red hearts on the face - I know, very manly! It turned out that the alarm clock was a pointless acquisition.
I had just settled into bed when my four roommates came in to the room. I had met them
The Perfect Staircase
I love the spiral staircases - I will have them in my home if I can. earlier and they were pleasant people, but they were certainly not the people you want to share a hostel room with. I had been in bed for about ten minutes when they walked in. There was one man and three women, all from the same family. They climbed into their beds, said good night and turned off the lights. A few minutes later, just as I was falling asleep, I was startled out of my slumber by a horrifying racket. It started off slowly but it quickly grew into a booming crescendo as each of the three ladies joined the man in a chorus of confused snoring. There were four distinct snores going, each loud in its own right, but when meshed the noise was unbearable. I tried all of the tricks I had learned from years of hostel living, but nothing worked, not even what I had always thought of as the final resort, the iPod and loud music. I laid there for another half an hour before I decided something drastic was in order. I grabbed the blanket and pillow off of my bed (and my new clock) and I headed out into the hallway. I spent the
The Molly Maguires
This was a wonderful band that we enjoyed in Killarney. night sleeping on the stained carpet of the top landing of the well-lit stairwell. Every time someone came up to go to bed they had to step over me. The final man staying in my room stumbled in at some point in the night - He started to ask me why I was in the hall, but even from where we were the noise rumbled out of the room like a pack of Harley Davidson motorcycles at a revving convention. Needless to say, I was staring at the cluster of hearts on the face of my alarm clock well before it was due to go off.
I stashed my bedding back in the room, got showered up and I headed off to my parents place to start the day. We had a long drive ahead of us and we had a firm time we had to be where we were going, so we were weaving our way through Killarney’s deserted streets well before the rooster got the idea to wake up. Considering my sleeping situation the previous night, I felt surprisingly well. The peaceful countryside passed by as we headed north on the narrow country lanes. We were headed
My Journal
This is the only picture I have from Carrigafoyal Castle, which was one of my favorite. to a section of rugged coastline just south of the Shannon Estuary and a town called Ballybunion. Ballybunion’s claim to fame was the Ballybunion Golf Club, a Links course that is consistently rated as one of the top ten best golf courses on the planet. It was a pilgrimage of sorts for Ken and it was difficult for me not to get caught up in the atmosphere and his excitement as well - I also enjoy playing golf, though, what I do with the clubs probably shouldn’t be classified as ‘playing’. We passed a strange statue of President Bill Clinton swinging a club when we entered the town and then we passed the ruins of a castle and, just before the golf course, a lovely old cemetery. We made it to the course in plenty of time and we helped Ken get all of his things in order and get checked in - The course is such a prestigious place that you have to prove that you are good enough to play there before they will let you ‘T’ up (my golfing ability just barely got me through the doors to use the restroom!) My mom and I wished Ken
Ballybunion Golf Club (1)
This is one of the best golf courses in the world - It was somewhat of a pilgrimage for Ken. good luck and then we left him there and headed off on an adventure of our own.
We sat in the car for a few minutes looking at a map of the area trying to find a place to spend a few hours. My finger landed on a small red dot on the Shannon Estuary that didn’t look too far away. The dot marked the location of a ruined castle and we figured that it must be somewhat special, considering that most of the castle ruins we had passed, including the one in Ballybunion, did not have a red dot associated with them. We decided to go and explore the castle and the area around it. It took us about half an hour of driving before we saw the estuary in front of us. We were not entirely sure which road we were on, but we decided that the castle was most likely to the left and we turned that way. We stopped at a small store and I ran in and purchased a few snacks and a small disposable camera and then we continued in our chosen direction looking for the castle. We drove along the estuary for
A Mighty Big Hazard
It is probably way out of range, but I would land in the ocean every time I hit the ball (that is why I couldn't play there). less than five minutes before the mass of gray stone masonry rose up ahead of us. We pulled into a deserted gravel parking area and stopped. The old gray fortress, which dated from sometime in the late fifteenth century, stood several stories above the swaying grass of the estuary. The waters of the Shannon River gently lapped at the stones on three sides of the tower forming a natural moat. The castle was beautifully proportional and well preserved excepting the huge hole blown in one side and the missing roof, scars left over from Cromwell’s artillery bombardment back in the year 1649.
I walked around the remains of the battlements towards the door and my mom followed. The thick wooden door was closed, but it swung open with ease. We stepped through the threshold into the dark interior prompting a few birds to take flight in a startling burst of energy as they shot out of the big hole in the wall. The walls were covered in a greenish film and looked as if they were very ancient. The room we were in was massive with a huge vaulted ceiling two stories above us. The arched ceiling was only
A Dream Game
Ken is an excellent golfer, so it was somewhat of a dream for him to play at Ballybunion. partially complete, thanks to the battle damage, but the scars did allow me a glimpse into the construction methods of the huge vault. There was a series of windows and doorways about half way up the wall that led me to the realization that the grand hall we were in was once divided into two floors. I headed towards a dark doorway at the back of the room followed by my mom, who was cautiously looking in every dark shadow, expecting an explosion of avian terror with every step, yet she continued on. We reached the doorway and discovered a spiral staircase going up and a room off to the side. We climbed up to the next floor where we found another small room that had a restored wooden floor and a long, dark hallway. A dim, greenish light flowing in from the doors and windows cut the darkness of the hall and illuminated the entrance to an even darker room. We walked up to one of the doorways, which had a few modern bars serving as handrails, and we looked out over the large room below. Two more birds took flight and crushed my mom’s desire to continue climbing
In the Forest of Green
This is the forest we walked through to get to Torc Falls. to the top of the castle, so she headed back down the narrow spiral staircase and headed out into the parking area. I continued up to the top floor and stepped out into the gloomy grayness of the roofless room. The room still had three intact walls and was paved with smooth stone tiles and there were a few very nice windows looking out across the estuary - It was clear that the ruined room was once the grandest hall in the castle. I walked up to a modern stone parapet that had been built from wall to wall to prevent people from falling through the gaping hole in the floor and wall. I stared out across the swaying grass and the parking area below to a green hill that rose on the other side of the road - It was from that hill nearly four-hundred years before that the stunning Carrigafoyle Castle met its demise.
I headed back down the spiral staircase and headed out of the castle, passing a couple more tourists along the way. I did a quick exploration of the ruined battlements, which had a few complete rooms, and then I headed back out to
Torc Falls
The destination of our first walk in Killarney National Park. the parking area where my mom was sitting on a low stone wall taking in the stunning scenery. We talked for a while and enjoyed a quick snack. She was content with sitting where she was for a while, so I headed down the road a short distance and took a seat in the wet grass. I had decided not to bring my camera with me that day, so instead of photographs, I decided to do a sketch of the castle in my journal. Half an hour later Carrigafoyle Castle was a memory.
We were on our way back to Ballybunion, via the long coastal road. The scenery along the somewhat rugged coastline was stunning. We passed the Mouth of the Shannon and then drove into Ballybunion from the north. We found a place to park in the center of the small town and we set off to explore. We first walked down to the beach, which was nearly deserted, and then we slowly made our way back up towards the badly ruined castle that occupied a lovely point of land on the sea cliffs above the beach. My mom had had a very active day, so she decided
that a lovely park bench looking out on the ocean and the cliffs was far more inviting than the exploration of another clearly ruined castle and she took a seat. I continued on to the castle, which was little more than a three story wall with a few windows and a doorway, but what was left was well restored and served as an amazing beacon of history for the town - I am glad that the time and money had been spent to preserve such a small piece of history, because the coastline would have seemed barren without it. The plaque on the castle wall told of the grand history of the once great Ballybunion Castle. It also spoke of the network of tunnels that had been excavated beneath the structure in the sea cliffs. Apparently, a lightning strike several years before had done severe damage to the ruin, which prompted the ‘remediation’ of the structure, so it could be preserved for later generations.
We left the beach and walked into town. My mom excitedly explored all of the shops looking for the perfect gifts for her friends and family back home. We eventually made our way to a
Killarney National Park
This is the view from the Lady's Lookout. small pub where we ate lunch and relived our day’s journey. We made it back to Ballybunion Golf Club about half an hour before Ken was expecting to be finished. We sat down in a café and sipped coffee while we stared out across the stunning landscape. The rolling green hills were blanketed in thick green grass that swayed in the wind. The well manicured fairways and greens contrasted with the surrounding hills and the gray coastal gloom rolling in off of the ocean completed the picture - It was one of the most beautiful golf courses I had seen. As we sat there, golfer after golfer came in off the fairways. Horror stories of gusty wind and impossible playing conditions seemed to be the talk of everyone that had played. We were preparing ourselves for Ken’s stories of woe from his wind-blown game when we spotted his familiar green ‘Masters’ cap approaching the club house. He filled us in on what sounded like an amazing and well played game - He had clearly had a great time out there on Ballybunion’s famous course. We got his clubs out to the car and then we went up to the restaurant,
Standing Stones
This is the illusive stone circle outside of Kenmare. so he could grab a bite to eat.
We spent a little time in the pro shop getting the requisite ‘Ballybunion’ golf shirts and then we headed back towards Killarney. We followed the same road that we had taken that morning, but we went a lot slower. We passed through Listowel and discovered some amazing architecture and a very old atmosphere - It was a lovely town with a castle and some great parks, but, sadly, there was no time to stop. We made it through Tralee and back to Killarney in the late afternoon. We were due to leave Killarney the next morning, bound for Limerick, but Killarney was growing on us and we wanted to explore a bit more. On the spur of the moment we decided to stay one more night. My parents had no problem extending their reservations, but my situation was a bit different. I went back to my hostel and discovered that they were full the next evening. I visited all of the other hostels in town and discovered that they were all full as well - Apparently there was a carnival in town and all of the budget accommodations were taken. I
A Church Along the Road
On just about every drive we found some sort of lovely stone building or ruin. This church was just outside of Kenmare. walked around town for hours looking for a place to stay, but it was not to be. That night I met my parents for dinner and some more music and merriment in the pubs.
The following morning started early with a journey into Killarney National Park along a portion of the Ring of Kerry. Our ultimate destination was Kenmare where we hoped to find a standing stone circle. Our first stop was at Torc Waterfall. We parked the car in the shade of tall trees. We followed the well trodden path into the forest - I ran ahead to make sure that the path was not too far or rugged, wanting to avoid another tour-guide mishap. The forest was lovely and the trail was gentle, so I ran back and got my camera gear and my parents and we set off. The dark recesses of the forest were covered with moss and greenery. The path followed a fast flowing stream and the photo opportunities were endless. I had not been in a forest like the one that surrounded us since I left South America, so I was excited. We looked everywhere for leprechauns, but they were keeping themselves well
Stonework
The door through Ross Castle's battlements. hidden. The cool forest breeze was very damp and the roar of rushing water told us that the falls were fairly substantial. We made it to the viewing area at the base of the falls were we took in the magnificent sight of the tall waterfall. Ken and I decided to head up a long set of stairs behind the falls. It was a steep climb, but the views of the park from the top made it worthwhile. We headed back down to where mom was enjoying the falls and then we headed back along the forest trail to the car - It had been a great walk through the forest, but it was time to move on.
The winding road we were following through the lovely forest started ascending the mountain and the broken scenery through the trees was getting more and more spectacular. We stopped at an overlook near ‘Lady’s View’ that had stunning views of Lough Leane (Lower Lake) and then we started down the road towards Kenmare. The rugged green landscape we were surrounded by was remarkable and we all were glad that we had decided to stay and explore it. We arrived in Kenmare
and found a place to park in the heart of the town. We asked three different people how we could find the stone circle. Two of them gave us confusing, but accurate directions out of town, but one of the young ladies smiled and gave us easy to follow directions in the wrong direction. After about ten minutes of walking in the direction she had given us we decided something was wrong. My mom was getting exhausted with the unexpected walking and the outing was turning into a disaster. We finally found another person who pointed us in the right direction and we finally found the place we were looking for just outside of town. Our unexpected walking tour of Kenmare and the deliberately wrong directions we had received from the lady put us all in a somewhat grumpy mood, which was unfortunate, but we were still amazed by the stone circle. We sat on the green lawn among the ring of fifteen stones and rested - The site was a pleasant place and I am glad we finally made it. We ate lunch in a pub downtown and then we headed back towards Killarney via a different road.
Ross Castle
It was said that Ross Castle couldn't be taken from land, so Cromwell put his artillery on barges. It was still early when we arrived back in Killarney, so we decided to head back into the national park to Ross Castle. We were hoping to get on one of the boat tours of the lake that left from the castle. Rain was threatening so the grounds were not as crowded as they would have been on a sunny day, which was a good thing. We explored the castle grounds and then we found the place where the boat tours left from. As luck would have it the next tour was due to leave in a few minutes, so we boarded the boat and took a few nice seats near windows that opened. We pulled away from the dock and set off to explore the lake’s forested shores. It was a great and relaxing tour. We got amazing views of the castle from the back of the boat and then we passed a tiny lump of an island and then we pulled up to Inisfallen Island where we got some great views of the ruined monastery that is located there. We motored along the forested shores of the lake while our guide told us the history of the area
Inisfallen Island
A famous history of the area, the Annals of Inisfallen, was written on this now ruined island. and the mysteries of the forest engulfed us. We pulled back up to the dock at the castle and continued exploring the area. I opted out of touring the castle’s interior because of their camera policy - It really bothers me when a historic place doesn’t allow photos, it seems more like a greedy ploy to sell more postcards than an attempt to preserve the atmosphere inside.
The rain that had been threatening all day finally decided to grace us with its presence and an epic deluge consumed the area. We made it back to the car before it got bad and we enjoyed the storm, the first I had seen since Cape Town, from the hotel room. We had had an action packed day and we were exhausted, so we decided to order some surprisingly delicious Chinese food and eat in the room. That evening we ventured out into the rain for one last night on the town. The festival and the lack of rooms meant that I was without a home for the night. The rain made sleeping on a park bench out of the question, so I staked out a place on the floor of my
Along Lough Leane
Some of the amazing views of Killarney National park on our boat ride. parent’s room and retired to one of the better nights of sleep I had had in a long time. The following morning we packed everything up into the car, ate a simple breakfast and hit the road again.
It was our last full day in Ireland. We were spending the night in Limerick, but we were first going up to the Cliffs of Moher. We retraced the route we had followed to Ballybunion, but we went straight through Listowel instead of turning. The Road we were following ended at the Shannon Estuary in the town of Tarbert. There was a sizable line waiting for the ferry, but we were near the front of it. We waited for nearly half an hour before the boat arrived and disgorged its passengers. We took our place near the front of the ferry and then found a place on the rail to watch the scenery go by. It was a beautifully overcast morning and the breeze and spray made it a bit chilly. We pulled out of Tarbert, passing a small lighthouse, and then we turned slightly westward towards the far bank. The green landscape was dotted with very nice old houses and
Killarney National Park
More scenery along the lake. small stands of trees. The southern bank of the Shannon was lost in the fog and mist, but I knew that my favorite castle stood sentinel somewhere out there. We landed on the north shore in County Clare and turned left, following the Shannon for a while. We drove along the coast passing through countless towns. Ruined castles seemed to grow up out of the green landscape, none of them marked on the map - I couldn’t help but wonder if any of my relatives had ever called one of the ruins home, regardless, I am sure there is an interesting story behind each of the stone fortresses. We knew we were getting close. The traffic had become more congested and the tour busses were everywhere. Suddenly, a parking area the size of a small city appeared off the right side of the road. There were thousands of people blanketing the cliffs on the left and we knew that we had arrived. I was not at all thrilled about the crowds, but I did my best to remain positive.
We found a nice parking place near the road and we headed across the street towards the visitor center, which
was built into a big hill. It was actually a very nice visitor center that didn’t detract from the natural wonder of the surrounding area. We followed the throngs of people along the walkway to the edge of the cliffs and looked down on the crashing surf below. The small patch of vegetation separating the stone rail and the edge of the precipice was blanketed in yellow wild flowers accented with green grass. The cold North Atlantic slammed against the black stone of the serrated cliffs in giant bursts of whitewater. Sea birds glided along the cliffs on big updrafts - It was a beautiful scene, even with the crowds of people. We started walking up the steep sidewalk, more of a staircase really, that followed the edge of the cliffs up to the top of one of the bluffs. It was a long climb, so my mom told Ken and me to go on ahead and she took a seat on one of the steps to rest. Ken and I pushed on up to the top and took in the impressive view across the crashing surf and the dramatic cliffs to a small castle or tower on top of
Ross Castle from Land
Ross Castle was a formidable fortress in its day. the most distant cliff. There was a small stone tower at the top of the bluff we were on as well, so we took a few pictures in front of it and we were turning around to head back down when, much to our surprise, my mom walked up and joined us. She had made the climb, which was not the easiest, and joined us on top to enjoy the full view of the cliffs. We lingered there for a while enjoying the majesty of the wild seascape and catching our breaths. We eventually said farewell to the ocean, retraced our steps along the edge of the cliffs and back past the subterranean visitor center. We found our car and spent a good deal of time fighting our way through the congestion of the clogged two lane road, but eventually we were moving unhindered through the Irish countryside, headed for our next adventure.
We drove through the lovely medieval town of Ennis and we all wanted to stop for a while and explore, but we had already made other plans. We passed Shannon and the airport we would be getting acquainted with the following morning and then we followed
Waiting for the Shot
It seems like you have to wait forever at the big tourist spots to get a good picture. the signs off of the highway to Bunratty and the castle of the same name. We had heard great things about the castle and the folk park surrounding it and we were excited to see it, but first we needed to grab a late lunch. We found a table at a seventeenth century pub called ‘Durty Nelly’s’ where we ate a decent meal and then we headed off to the castle. We arrived about two hours late! The castle was closed for their Medieval Banquet - We took a quick look around the visitor’s center and the shop and then we headed for Limerick and our last night in Ireland.
In all of my searching I had been unable to find affordable accommodations in Limerick - My friend Dave that I met in Zambia was from Limerick and he had prepared me for the lack of hostels. We decided that it would be easier just to share the room again - I was turning into a major moocher, but the alternative would have been very expensive. My mom had done all of the walking she cared to do that day, so she decided to stay in the hotel and
The Lighthouse
This lighthouse was located in the Shannon River where we crossed into County Clare. relax and finish reading Harry Potter. Ken and I set off to explore Limerick. Following the advice of the lady at the hotel desk, we walked across one of the bridges to the west bank of the Shannon and headed north towards the castle. She was correct regarding the scenic nature of the walk. We were on the opposite bank of the river from the magnificent King John’s Castle and the views of the thirteenth century fortress and the long Thomond Bridge were stunning. We followed the river until we reached the Treaty Stone, where the Treaty of Limerick was signed and then we crossed over the bridge to where the castle stood. As luck would have it, King John’s Castle was closed as well, but the views of the outside were impressive. We followed the east bank of the river back to the hotel, passing a few lovely old buildings and a grand church along the way. We ate a light dinner in the lounge of the hotel that night and then we sat around until late talking about many things, including my plans for Turkey - Of course, I had not made any plans for Turkey other than
The Cliffs or Moher
This place was one of the biggest tourist traps I have encountered in my travels, but it was still worth the visit. the plane ticket there, so the conversation was not all that enlightening for them. We spent an hour getting our bags packed - My parents kindly agreed to take my extra bag with all of my African souvenirs, including the spear that had gotten me in trouble in Zambia, home for me, so my backpack was light again - and then we went to sleep.
We were up early the following morning. We packed the car one last time and then we crossed the Shannon River and retraced our path back to the airport. Our ten day journey across Southern Ireland had been amazing. We explored countless castles, we laughed and sang all of the famous Irish folk songs in the lively pubs and we enjoyed the famously warm and friendly people, all amid a backdrop of the beautiful, emerald green landscape of Ireland - There is no doubt in my mind that I will return someday! My family is very important to me, so it was great to spend time with my parents. I had hoped that our time together would quench my desire to be back home, but, instead, it made it worse. It was a sad
At the Summit of the Cliff
It was a big moment for my mom when she made it to the top of the steep path on the cliffs. parting, but we would see each other again in four months or so. We said farewell at the entrance to the security screening. My parents headed to their early flight back to Atlanta and I went and had breakfast. I was bound for a new and mysterious land and new adventures. Next stop, Turkey!
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